P1 V70 top rad pipe blew/broke off....

[Rhys]

Well not so much blew off rather broke off! Managed to nurture it off the road and turn the engine off as the needle was rapidly rising. Opened the bonnet and saw the pipe had come off - trouble is the outlet on the rad had sheared off leaving about half an inch to fit the pipe on. The jubilee clip on the pipe had rusted solid so couldn't re-use it (and it was still clamped to the part that had sheared off. Luckily my mate was following in the van so had my tool box at hand to try and remove the jubilee. Ended up going to a parts place in the van and buying some more clips. The existing outlet on the rad was enough to fasten a clip onto and luckily where I had stopped was able to fill a 5 litre container I keep in my car (which I'd just used to fill the washer bottle...).So far it's OK but I've not booted it and kept it under 2k revs.



Never tell anyone you have never had any trouble with your car as it wil call you a liar!



Trouble is I am now wary of the fact that my rad fix will break so it looks like a new/used rad is needed. Are these easy to fit? I don't fancy a whopping garage bill or is there a way of extending the outlet pipe. Oh the joys of motoring...

[AcidicDavey]

Replacing a radiator is fairly easy.... even I've done it

No special tools or know how needed.
Remove rad hoses, intercooler hoses, the whole fan shroud, the cooler lines on the left and the right using some circlip pliers.
Undo the 4 10mm bolts (one each corner) that go through the AC rad and intercooler that hold them to the coolant radiator.
Then from under the car undo the 2 bolts (14mm I think) that point upwards that hold the radiator to the car, you might want to get someone to hold the radiators or put a jack under them or something as these are the last 2 fixings. It should be ready to remove now

On installation make sure the little tabs at the bottom of the fan go through their little slots at the bottom of the rad.

Word of caution, it's best to soak the 2 bolts that hold the radiator in with penetrating spray or similar, the captive nuts regularly break, if that happens it'd be a case of replacing the bolt (after somehow getting it out) with a nut and bolt.

Also, replace all 4 of the cooler line clips and seals, about £20 from Volvo, they are notorious for failing and spilling your engine oil or ATF everywhere!

Just a rough guide to give you an idea, it's easy if you're good with the spanners.
If not maybe a 2 hour job at a garage to change a radiator?

[Rhys]

Thanks Davey, gives me a bit of confidence. I'm not too bad with spanners and my dad is a retired engineer who learned to strip his Ford Anglia engine by doing it so he can help lol
I've got jacks, ramps. all the tools I need. Just need to research the 'how to' and find the time.

[Orca2]

What diameter is the spigot that snapped off , and what is it made of , you might be able to solder a yorkshire plumbing fitting on to take the hose.
Is the spigot made of brass ?

[Rhys]

What diameter is the spigot that snapped off , and what is it made of , you might be able to solder a yorkshire plumbing fitting on to take the hose.
Is the spigot made of brass ?

Tbh I don't know, it'd mean taking the pipe off to measure it which will pour coolant everywhere. Was wondering if fixing a pipe internally to extend it would work - would also strengthen where I've clamped it. Wonder if it was anything to do with boost pressure as I accelerated hard before hand when pulling into traffic.