Post 822296 by Tee5alive on 2022-10-22 14:38:19
Hi
Well I ended up having to replace the right hand caliper Ive also change both discs as I bought these several years ago for another car.
Now despite SOAKING the brake union joints for 4 days they wont budge. I managed to crack the joing fton the flexible hose BUT it wont turn on the metal pipe. Ive had this before ending up with a twisted and knackered pipe.
Can anyone point me to or post a schematic of the brake lines please. I cant find anything online.
I basically need to know WHERE the solid metal pipe vanishes to after the flexy hose AND what THE PART Nos are for those pipes. This 'one day job' in now into the second WEEK!
THIS wont budge its going to screw up the solid pipe
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33217[/ATTACH]
WHERE DOES THIS GO??
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33216[/ATTACH]
Post 822297 by uqj83l on 2022-10-22 20:26:18
I’m pretty sure it bends back up into the engine bay and goes straight into the BCM. However on second glance it looks like it’s the OSF and not the NSF. In which case it bends around the steering rack, drops down to a metal cross brace where it’s held in with 2 plastic clips and then bends up and straight into the BCM.
Post 822298 by uqj83l on 2022-10-22 20:31:38
PS. I don’t want to add to your woes but your front lower control arm rear bush looks torn :-(
Post 822299 by Tee5alive on 2022-10-23 01:22:17
[QUOTE=uqj83l;822298]PS. I don’t want to add to your woes but your front lower control arm rear bush looks torn :-([/QUOTE]
OK great cheers I'll check it if it ever stops raining. I dont understand as the car is in superb condition inside and bodywork but Ive NEVER seen a Volvo this rusty underneath and I have had quite a few V70's, many higher mileage than this one? PLUS it was ' low mileage' when bought (120k which for an 2004 is low)
I also want to replace BOTH front brake pipes taking no chance and make sure it passes MOT next year.
Post 822302 by uqj83l on 2022-10-23 18:59:19
If it was one owner from new then that owner would have had a particular driving style, storage, or location. What I mean by that is it could have been driven daily over a bridge which was close to the coast or salt water. Or the owner only drove it a couple times each week and always parked it in a garage even after driving in the rain. Or the owner may have always used a cycle or motorcycle for their commute but bought a car only to use on rainy days. I’ve got a 2005 D5 with 125,000 miles and it does not have a dot of rust on the underside ( I’m not exaggerating. You won’t even find a pea size dot of rust anywhere). There’s no chance it’s a manufacturing defect.
Post 822303 by uqj83l on 2022-10-23 19:25:20
Are there specific areas which are rusting or is it everywhere? Generally these cars are well coated and resist rust very well compared to others. The front subframe never rusts, the LCAs are aluminium just like the engine and transmission, the body is well protected, rear subframes on AWD models are aluminium, the rear arms can suffer some surface rust but it’s never structural, anti roll bars coating can chip leading to a few surface spots and that’s about it. Or are you referring only to bolt heads? See attached image of the underside of my D5….
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33218[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33219[/ATTACH]
Post 822304 by Tee5alive on 2022-10-24 01:01:09
I have a 2002 C70 T5 and underneath its like new! Many of my other T5's have been in very good nick. I have NEVER had a caliper bolt round off on me EVER! That is a first. It was owned by a disabled lady so she wouldnt have 'got under it' but the service history says it was regularly serviced.
A lot of the time I also live in Devon right next to the sea and my partners car only has 25,000 miles on it (on a 2007 plate) BUT underneath is ROTTEN I have a job keeping it in a condition to pass the MOT. Its getting sadly close to becoming 'Bean tins' Sadly the body and interior and engine are immaculate but the salt air KILLS cars.