Post 711444 by JamesT5 on 2014-05-13 19:39:06
So my good friend, who some of you met at the Swedish Day on Sunday, is kindly entrusting me with his 1989 F reg 740 this week to do a few jobs on it. I'll be having it Thursday morning if all goes to plan, and I thought I'd kick-start a thread on it to show and map my progress. I'm not doing anything too drastic to it at this stage but it will be having some TLC and some a couple of shiny new parts. I promise I won't show it the angle grinder. ;)
Watch this space this weekend for all the updates including the 'Before' and 'After' stuff. :beer: :B_thumb:
Post 711479 by stribo on 2014-05-13 20:36:07
Will be watching this with interest. ;)
Post 711485 by merc85 on 2014-05-13 20:43:29
hope its not a oil change lol ;)
Post 711487 by Harvey on 2014-05-13 20:48:41
Mini list of dont's.:uglyhamme :hidesbehi
1 no angle grinder.
2 silver paint on suspension parts.
3 no 0w20 oil.
Post 711488 by JamesT5 on 2014-05-13 20:51:03
[QUOTE=Harvey;711487]Mini list of dont's.:uglyhamme :hidesbehi
1 no angle grinder.
2 silver paint on suspension parts.
3 no 0w20 oil.[/QUOTE]
Oh Harvey, I was going to do all of that, what a bummer..... :mischievo :P :hilarious ;)
Post 711490 by JamesT5 on 2014-05-13 20:52:38
[QUOTE=merc85;711485]hope its not a oil change lol ;)[/QUOTE]
It's ok, I'm going down the local chippy to see if used chip fat will do the trick. ;) :haha:
Post 711492 by stribo on 2014-05-13 20:53:47
To be fair, if it's naturally aspirated, you'll get away with 15w40 mineral oil in it. ;)
Post 711493 by JamesT5 on 2014-05-13 20:54:27
I love the way the flack has been primed before the job has started. :hilarious :D
Post 711494 by JamesT5 on 2014-05-13 20:55:18
[QUOTE=stribo;711492]To be fair, if it's naturally aspirated, you'll get away with 15w40 mineral oil in it. ;)[/QUOTE]
Actually, an oil change is not on the cards - not yet anyway, although I did tell my mate it needs doing soon.
Post 712222 by JamesT5 on 2014-05-16 19:02:25
[QUOTE=stribo;712219]Good going so far.[/QUOTE]
Cheers Steve, funny though how the drop links on my P2 were only 18 months old and I had all those issues with getting them off, yet these ones on a 24 year old 740 came off almost without a hitch. I'm sure the DL's aren't 24 years old but judging by the state of the bushings they've still been on a while.
Post 712234 by V70 Graham on 2014-05-16 19:31:18
Looking good, remember to have the alignment checked when you've finished.
Post 712237 by JamesT5 on 2014-05-16 19:35:54
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;712234]Looking good, remember to have the alignment checked when you've finished.[/QUOTE]
Anti-roll bar bushes and drop links won't affect the alignment Graham as they're not connected in any way to the steering. But thanks for the suggestion all the same. ;)
Post 712238 by stribo on 2014-05-16 19:36:54
[QUOTE=V70 Graham;712234]Looking good, remember to have the alignment checked when you've finished.[/QUOTE]
Droplinks and anti roll bar bushes won't change the alignment mate.
Post 712243 by V70 Graham on 2014-05-16 19:49:31
Oi Miss Daisy.....droplinks and anti roll bar bushes won't change the alignment so no need.
Post 712245 by V70 Graham on 2014-05-16 19:50:45
I have mine checked yearly anyhow.....just so I know it's all as it should be.
Post 712566 by JamesT5 on 2014-05-17 22:06:01
So today was more of a fact finding mission and it really did test my patience at times. The bonnet release on this 740 is U/S and the offside catch (behind the headlight cluster) wouldn't release even pulling directly on the wire. To cut a long story short, after trying to take the headlight cluster off in bits only to find it was not feasibly possible with the bonnet down, I manage to get the grill off on the one side and reach in to release the catch. I did try the grill option initially but gave up and went down the headlight route before returning to the grill option again. The grill is held in by two clips which are a right PITA to try and get out unless the bonnet is up. Somehow I managed using some long handled screwdrivers.
The wire from the passenger compartment runs around the side of the engine bay and along the front, through a 'threading eye' in the release catch and then it's tethered to the N/S catch. The cable had detached from the red lever and although it was run through the threading eye on both catches, the drivers side wouldn't pop up. This will need a new release cable because the old one has kinked and is no good anyway. They're about £20 - £30 from the Stealers.
More worrying though, was the problem on the rear of the car. My mate told me he was getting a 'shudder' as he pulled off although he described it as a "knocking". Having done a test drive or two I decided the problem had to be from the rear or center of the car and I had 2 theories........
1) The brakes are sticking and it's causing vibration initially on pulling away, until they release.
2) There is an issue with the drivetrain, in this case on the rear as the car is rear wheel drive.
So out came the video camera, the rear end was raised off the ground and the wheels taken off. I wanted to 'troubleshoot' the problem to see whether it was more or less of a problem with or without load bearing in place. Taking the weight off the rear end actually made the problem worse and the video footage revealed some shocking stuff.
The vibration seems to be coming from the propshaft or drivetrain, I assume there is a propshaft bearing in the rear drive axle although the shaft does seems to be jumping up and down significantly at low rpm and particularly in the middle of the car.
Incidentally, there's also a strange mechanical, continuous 'squeaky buzzing' sound coming from the middle of the underside as well as lots of old oil and grease. I wonder if this sound is the oil pump running dry although the engine oil level looks ok. The oily stuff could well be hydraulic fluid, a very likely possibility in fact.
The rear nearside brake rota was definitely on a wobble and the rear brake carrier pins were loose in the calipers on both sides, the N/S being the worst. I wonder if an issue with a worn bearing (or two!) in the rear drive axle/propshaft system, has caused vibrations to place premature wear on the rear wheel bearings and then the rear brake system.
This is a video showing various clips I've strung together from my 'diagnostics' session on the rear end today. There is some commentary on bits of the video, I'm sorry the commentary didn't come out too well as there was a lot of background noise. I'd value opinions on whether you think I'm more or less on the money with the diagnosis, either way this can't be good news for the car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZun2Amdv6s&feature=youtu.be
Edit: There was a couple of times I tried it in 'drive' with the handbrake still on. It's an Auto box as well by the way.
Post 712571 by graemewelch on 2014-05-17 22:31:45
Possible worn joints in diff..but if in doubt leave it alone. Its one thing doing thing in your comfort zone but when its not your car your treading on dangerous ground.
Post 712585 by T5frankie on 2014-05-17 23:13:52
dunno why anyone bothers with these old bangers :uglyhamme
Post 712586 by t5 pete on 2014-05-17 23:26:11
Ide say the bushes are totally shot on the rear, check the centre propshaft bearing and support, worn trailing arm bushes allow for lots of movement.
As for the rear discs first of all check they are seated correctly and firmly in place with the locating bolt strip down clean all mating faces many people forget to do this when changing discs therefor the disc doesn't sit even if it still occurs after that its looking like there is a problem with the half saft.
Post 712607 by JamesT5 on 2014-05-18 09:40:13
[QUOTE=T5frankie;712585]dunno why anyone bothers with these old bangers :uglyhamme[/QUOTE]
You're one of the guys to talk to about these 740 models Frankie, I know you've had your fingers in a few of the redblock engine bays.
Post 712621 by oblark on 2014-05-18 12:53:10
It sounds like to me the auto box is grinding it's self away, the centre brg on the prop is ££££ed alone with the rear brakes.
I would have sorted these problems first before doing any other work on the car as it could be ££££ed and fit for the breakers.
