Hi, yet another post from myself, just wanting to find out why now that i have fitted my green giant injectors and bypassed the ballast resistor as soon as i turned the ignition on my battery very quickly drained and is now at 11V any ideas? sorry for the frequent 'need help' posts, the help is much appreciated thanks again in advance
[QUOTE=chazz.stockham;710578]Hi, yet another post from myself, just wanting to find out why now that i have fitted my green giant injectors and bypassed the ballast resistor as soon as i turned the ignition on my battery very quickly drained and is now at 11V any ideas? sorry for the frequent 'need help' posts, the help is much appreciated thanks again in advance[/QUOTE] What impedance are the greens or what cc are they
sorry, don't no the impedance, there 440cc though
[QUOTE=chazz.stockham;710584]sorry, don't no the impedance, there 440cc though[/QUOTE] If they are low impedance you donot need to do the resistor mod mate .
I'll take a look at the ebay information, i think they are supposed to be low impedance and are quoted to work with most volvo ECU's thanks a lot, much appreciated
there 12 ohm, i take this is fairly low and i therefore don't need the resistor mod, just correct me if I'm wrong please, thanks again
[QUOTE=chazz.stockham;710591]there 12 ohm, i take this is fairly low and i therefore don't need the resistor mod, just correct me if I'm wrong please, thanks again[/QUOTE] Check what the standard ones are but I think the Volvo high impedance run at 16 ohms .and the lows impedance I think are 4 ohms .so yes you are going to need to do the resistor mod .how did you do the resistor mod mate
Ill test the originals with the multimeter tomorrow and let you no, i just got 5 spade connectors, unplugged the connector and wired the middle wire (12V feed) into the other 4 connectors which should be 1 for each injector. I've just copied pictures I've seen on here and possibly other forums
Yes as long as they have all connected to each other that's what counts .all I did was cut all the wires off the resistor block and soldered the lot together job done .because I knew I would not use low Rez injectors ever again .
yea, I've gotten into trying to make everything look standard, anybody that Isn't familiar with volvos wouldn't notice and difference at the moment, like i say I'll do a quick check tomorrow to confirm the impedance of the old injectors. why is it that its drained the battery then, i didn't try to crank it just simply turned the ignition on I'm a bit confused about the hole deal cheers
[QUOTE=chazz.stockham;710690]yea, I've gotten into trying to make everything look standard, anybody that Isn't familiar with volvos wouldn't notice and difference at the moment, like i say I'll do a quick check tomorrow to confirm the impedance of the old injectors. why is it that its drained the battery then, i didn't try to crank it just simply turned the ignition on I'm a bit confused about the hole deal cheers[/QUOTE] It must be something else mate because once the ignition is off it shuts all the electrics off on the ignition side .have you started the car yet with new injectors in .
I've just tried to get a reading off the old injectors, all i can get is 03.1 ohms with 200 written beneath the point, i never have been very good at reading resistance. No i haven't tried to start it, i haven't got the exhaust manifold on at the moment. but i fitted them (making sure the 2 earth connections that are held in with the fuel rail bolts where re connected) did the resistor bypass and turned the ignition on and the lights on the dash where very dim and my boost gauge fluttered on and off, never had that before, i knew the battery didn't have the best charge but it had enough to chuck then engine over and start it, maybe I'm just being stupid and the battery has drained, simply needs a charge
[QUOTE=chazz.stockham;710761]I've just tried to get a reading off the old injectors, all i can get is 03.1 ohms with 200 written beneath the point, i never have been very good at reading resistance. No i haven't tried to start it, i haven't got the exhaust manifold on at the moment. but i fitted them (making sure the 2 earth connections that are held in with the fuel rail bolts where re connected) did the resistor bypass and turned the ignition on and the lights on the dash where very dim and my boost gauge fluttered on and off, never had that before, i knew the battery didn't have the best charge but it had enough to chuck then engine over and start it, maybe I'm just being stupid and the battery has drained, simply needs a charge[/QUOTE] maybe need to change the range on your multi-meter mate
While manifold is off you going to grind it out to t3 size inlet....much better flow :) What amm you running with those injectors?
[QUOTE=chazz.stockham;710761]I've just tried to get a reading off the old injectors, all i can get is 03.1 ohms with 200 written beneath the point, i never have been very good at reading resistance. No i haven't tried to start it, i haven't got the exhaust manifold on at the moment. but i fitted them (making sure the 2 earth connections that are held in with the fuel rail bolts where re connected) did the resistor bypass and turned the ignition on and the lights on the dash where very dim and my boost gauge fluttered on and off, never had that before, i knew the battery didn't have the best charge but it had enough to chuck then engine over and start it, maybe I'm just being stupid and the battery has drained, simply needs a charge[/QUOTE] Give the battery a good charge
I've tried all resistance reading settings on my multimeter and on all other settings i get nothing, like 0.1, 0.01, thats the only setting I've managed to get a reading anything other than 1 and 0. i Haven't really thought about touching the manifold just trying to sort out the tdo4 turbo issue, i haven't got it yet but I'm planning on a 3" MAF that i think comes from a 960 of higher cc yea Ill try and stop jumping to worst case conclusions, give the battery a good charge and see what's what thanks a lot people
[QUOTE=chazz.stockham;710775]I've tried all resistance reading settings on my multimeter and on all other settings i get nothing, like 0.1, 0.01, thats the only setting I've managed to get a reading anything other than 1 and 0. i Haven't really thought about touching the manifold just trying to sort out the tdo4 turbo issue, i haven't got it yet but I'm planning on a 3" MAF that i think comes from a 960 of higher cc yea Ill try and stop jumping to worst case conclusions, give the battery a good charge and see what's what thanks a lot people[/QUOTE] if the old injectors are low impedence maybe 3 ohms is OK Green bosch injectors are 12 ohms yes? https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1547205/220/240/260/280/reason_change_fuel_injectors_making_240_turbo_scratch.html edit sorry just noticed you said already - 12 ohms
yes, the new green bosch injectors are 12 ohms, and from that reading I'm guessing my old injectors probably are 3ohms, so presumably this dose mean i need the ballast bypass mod
[QUOTE=chazz.stockham;710779]yes, the new green bosch injectors are 12 ohms, and from that reading I'm guessing my old injectors probably are 3ohms, so presumably this dose mean i need the ballast bypass mod[/QUOTE] I'm no expert fella but reading on the net it sounds like yes you need it, for fitting high impedence injectors to a turbo'd car http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=240296
Ok, fair enough, nice one thanks, Ill try and keep what i can posted and let everyone no how its coming along and certainly post some more pictures when its done
[QUOTE=chazz.stockham;710792]Ok, fair enough, nice one thanks, Ill try and keep what i can posted and let everyone no how its coming along and certainly post some more pictures when its done[/QUOTE] we like pictures!