Post 704940 by oblark on 2014-04-20 15:53:51
Do you no if it is obd1 or 2 ?
Post 704942 by sundog on 2014-04-20 15:58:14
i can only assume its obd one as the bosch kts would not communicate with the car, is there anyway of knowing for sure?
Post 704944 by sundog on 2014-04-20 15:58:57
i think the only thing that is making the car run that high of a boost pressure is it has a kingwana actuator?
Post 704951 by merc85 on 2014-04-20 16:23:42
The ecu chips dont usually have a socket soldered in, My last HLM chipped ecu was directly soldered to the board.
I have a Standard ecu chip (volvo one) and it clearly has a number on it,
Your chip looking at the picture looks very similar to my hlm one i had, and doesnt look abnormal. Id say the boost cut is somthing else breaking down under load, like a crank sensor for instance how long can you run it at 17psi? without issue
Post 704964 by sundog on 2014-04-20 16:46:47
if its full throttle i can hold full pressure as long as the road lets me, i only tend to have a problem approaching slow moving traffic and just increasing the throttle slowly it comes to around 10 psi then boost cuts cuts back in the out and shakes it all about. i try to avoid using full throttle from a higher gear so it dosen't drop a couple of gears and bend a rod as i have no idea to the condition of the engine even though it was supposed to have uprated rods etc, i do not believe it at all
Post 704970 by merc85 on 2014-04-20 16:53:48
Boost cut is just that, the ecu will NOT allow prolonged overboost over aprox 14 psi, id suggest the problem is not related to the ecu chip.
Have you carried out a Stage zero tune? this is paramount when buying one of these cars they are all getting old and most have been abused, and before any tuning is carried it is highly advisable it then allows easier trouble shooting, and possible even stops silly issues in the 1st place.
Post 704974 by Jamest5r on 2014-04-20 17:01:26
1st thing to try is bin that actuator and try a standard one few people have had problems with them
Post 705355 by theflyingbrick on 2014-04-21 20:22:05
yeah im thinking the actuator has been tweaked beyond its means,maybe its too tight causing the boost to spike and causing the boost cut issue???
Post 706803 by sundog on 2014-04-27 16:54:25
thanks guys changed the actuator now its only running 8psi :o feels a little slow now but at least its not leaning out. pay day cant come soon enough, has any one on here used those chips off ebay from Sweden? there feedback looks really promising?
Post 706941 by theflyingbrick on 2014-04-27 20:57:26
oblark is selling a rica ecu on here for 100 quid if your after a decent remap ;)
Post 706995 by t5 pete on 2014-04-27 21:59:34
The little one had a similar problem he would boost fine up to 10psi but any thing over that and it was like it was cutting back turned out to be the maf
Post 707461 by sundog on 2014-04-29 18:10:45
if he still has it come pay day it shall be mine :) im fed up of standard boost already :D
Post 707467 by Dangerous Dave on 2014-04-29 18:39:54
Make sure your boost control solenoid is plumbed in the right way too. If it is backwards then it won't boost properly
Post 707513 by sundog on 2014-04-29 21:00:09
i will have to check that when i get back to my car at the w/e off to google i go
Post 707516 by Dangerous Dave on 2014-04-29 21:09:09
Beware the diagram that is around the internet is wrong (see below) the pipes are the wrong way round, the top pipe should go to the actuator and the bottom pipe should go to the turbo
This pic has the correct config (note the colour dots on the BCS):
just wondering if you guys would agree if this is appeared standard?
also my new turbo which has absolute no play in the compressor shaft make alot more of a whiney noise when it spools than the old one is that more common with the bigger turbo is it self destructing due to having been sitting dry in a garage for years?
thanks for your help in advance i'm new to this turbo game but i'm learning fast