1st post asking for help been with volvos for 7 years now My problem I have been given a 1998 awd auto R ecu moronic 4.4 to go into my 1998 awd v70 mot ronin 4.4 I have already put in blue injectors and a free flowing exhaust afr gague to go in but when I put the r ecu in the car starts and dies and if I swap the ecu's back over the car starts Any ideas where I have gone wrong and not saying sell it and but a t5 :)
Don't think you can just swap 4.4's from one car into another unless it's been mapped, I think the immobilizer is coded to the ecu (having said that, I'm probably talking out of my arse)
Spoke to a Volvo tech and he said it should just swap as the 4.4 had a separate immobiliser unit and it's 1999 that they coded to the car or from June 1998 as that's when they went me7
You say yours is just the normal AWD, so should have a 2.5 litre engine and the R AWD ecu is for a 2.3 litre engine, the maps are different on the ecus (not too different, but enough by the sounds of it). Unfortunately you would need a 2.5 specific remap. If you're any good with electronics/computing you can check out the DIY mapping thread on here which has the links on how to do it.
[QUOTE=Thanatos;677250]Spoke to a Volvo tech and he said it should just swap as the 4.4 had a separate immobiliser unit and it's 1999 that they coded to the car or from June 1998 as that's when they went me7[/QUOTE] could it be the ecu is goosed ? May be you should try it in some else's car to check weather it is ok. I have seen once first hand, an ecu work the night before and then not work the next morning and nobody touched it or did anything to it, just gone pop for no reason at all
For Bosch Motronic 4.4 cars, your must use an ECU with an identical Bosch number. So mine is 0 261 204 448.....Dangerous Dave has the same in his motor so we can swop and it will run regardless of key or immob. unit. The map must be identical to suit even for the ancillaries that the ECU controls! Coding of the chip in the key and immob with ECU was introduced as said previous in 1998 and was for all Volvo including my `98 T4 V40 In these motors the ECU together with the key and immob unit all have to be tranferred for the engine to run!
I will report back once I have tried it in a car I know as working as I have in the past replaced the ecu from an R model and it was instant start and drive and this has been done before on other forums but it makes tuning more of a science as you have thiner walls with the 2.4 over e 2.3 and once I get the 16-18t on the car it should go well
Just found where i read it quite a while back.....for compatability:
[QUOTE=Thanatos;677311]I will report back once I have tried it in a car I know as working as I have in the past replaced the ecu from an R model and it was instant start and drive and this has been done before on other forums but it makes tuning more of a science as you have thiner walls with the 2.4 over e 2.3 and once I get the 16-18t on the car it should go well[/QUOTE] So is your the 2.5 lpt engine?
[QUOTE=Dangerous Dave;677351]So is your the 2.5 lpt engine?[/QUOTE] yelp the 2.5 lpt turbo and i am going to a 16- 18t or hybrid turbo but to start off with a 16t
Well today I started again and this time I marked the immobiliser as there look identical and it's all good key cut up to get to the immobiliser chip to go in my flip key ecu in and the correct immobiliser unit it and the car lives again so now I have and R ecu running In a 2.5l car
Just remember the maps are for the 2.3 and not the 2.5, so it might run rough at some points.
oh yeah i know that at some point it will but when i have fettled her a little all will be fine
[QUOTE=Thanatos;677607]oh yeah i know that at some point it will but when i have fettled her a little all will be fine[/QUOTE] Glad you have it running.............i would keep an eye on the boost and when it boosts!!!!!
boost gauge and afr gauge are next to be fitted as i don't want it running lean then to get a 16t to start with
i still don't understand why you have done this?
[QUOTE=Thanatos;677654]boost gauge and afr gauge are next to be fitted as i don't want it running lean then to get a 16t to start with[/QUOTE] I have a 16T going cheapish if you can`t find another......it peforms ok with no bearing play except it does smoke slightly after 10mins of idling but not when running. I took it off my V70 T5 when fitting the 18T
[QUOTE=T5frankie;677666]i still don't understand why you have done this?[/QUOTE] to get a little bit more power from the awd