Started on the rust

Post 615019 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-09 18:10:58

Now that the weather is good, I decided to start on the rust. It went better than I expected but still not 100% satisfied. I used 80 grit and 120 on the filler before putting the primer on. Still the odd 'dimple' but very very minute. Not put a top coat on yet, just primed it. There are some imperfections with the primer but I think wet sanding it might help? [ATTACH=CONFIG]21714[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21715[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21716[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21717[/ATTACH]

Post 615022 by graemewelch on 2013-06-09 18:18:22

looking good so far, just take your time and be in no rush at finish it. nothing to stop you putting a thin layer of filler on. add some thinners to the filler. it will make it easier to apply

Post 615023 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-09 18:21:14

[QUOTE=graemewelch;615022]looking good so far, just take your time and be in no rush at finish it. nothing to stop you putting a thin layer of filler on. add some thinners to the filler. it will make it easier to apply[/QUOTE] Cheers, yeh it tended to get a bit blotchy and I have some scratches in the clear coat from the 120 that I need to sort too.

Post 615108 by Tomcat on 2013-06-09 20:55:52

Dont wet sand the primer, let it dry thoroughley and then flat it back with 4-600 grit, dont use anything too course or the sanding scratches will show through later. If you wet sand with too fine a paper it wont have enough 'bite' and you'll be at risk of the paint simply peeling off by itself later on. Did you put any sort of rust inhibitor over the rust after you'd sanded it?, always best to cover your bases, stops any rust from coming back too quickly, you dont want to go to all that effort only for it to bubble through after a few months do you?

Post 615197 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-10 09:55:29

[QUOTE=Tomcat;615108]Dont wet sand the primer, let it dry thoroughley and then flat it back with 4-600 grit, dont use anything too course or the sanding scratches will show through later. If you wet sand with too fine a paper it wont have enough 'bite' and you'll be at risk of the paint simply peeling off by itself later on. Did you put any sort of rust inhibitor over the rust after you'd sanded it?, always best to cover your bases, stops any rust from coming back too quickly, you dont want to go to all that effort only for it to bubble through after a few months do you?[/QUOTE] Cheers Tomcat, I read something about not sanding it too fine. I think I have some 500 or something along those lines. And yes, I went down to bare metal, put some kurust on, left it and sanded it off then reapplied and let it dry then filler over the top. Whether thats correct, I don't know, tis a first time effort.

Post 615198 by Tomcat on 2013-06-10 10:04:10

That sounds good to me, keep going bud, looking forward to seeing your progress.

Post 615289 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-10 17:26:52

Cheers. Question is, I have a few scratches on the paint near where I have sanded. Was the 120 grit. When sanding back the primer can I go over these with the finer grain and spray top coat over to blend in?

Post 615306 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-10 18:49:38

§§§§ I got spray paint lines.

Post 615310 by Tomcat on 2013-06-10 18:56:52

When you say spray paint lines?, do you mean a line where you masked it off?.

Post 615313 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-10 19:00:20

[ATTACH=CONFIG]21718[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21719[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21720[/ATTACH][QUOTE=Tomcat;615310]When you say spray paint lines?, do you mean a line where you masked it off?.[/QUOTE] Yeh, i even back masked it, 3rd pic and first on the door corner and above rear bumper near wheel arch

Post 615316 by nobananas on 2013-06-10 19:06:11

[QUOTE=Haizum74;615313][ATTACH=CONFIG]21718[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21719[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]21720[/ATTACH] Yeh, i even back masked it, 3rd pic and first on the door corner and above rear bumper near wheel arch[/QUOTE] Whenever I done any painting I have always 'soft' masked, basically mask off then lift the edges of the tape and roll back a little , that way when you spray you won't get a hard masked edge.

Post 615318 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-10 19:10:47

[QUOTE=nobananas;615316]Whenever I done any painting I have always 'soft' masked, basically mask off then lift the edges of the tape and roll back a little , that way when you spray you won't get a hard masked edge.[/QUOTE] Thats what I did but didnt notice the damn tape fell flat. Still there isnt any rust lol

Post 615319 by graemewelch on 2013-06-10 19:13:31

looks a good job mate. id be well pleased with that job

Post 615321 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-10 19:15:46

[QUOTE=graemewelch;615319]looks a good job mate. id be well pleased with that job[/QUOTE] AM not lol, its got orange peel which I suppose I can finely sand back, its the damn lines man. I can see em. lol. Oh jeez I knew this was a bad idea.

Post 615619 by no1tosh on 2013-06-11 19:15:43

hey,looks good what you need to do is leave it alone for a week to let the paint cure. sand away your edges with say 1000's and then go over all of you fresh paint with 2000's. Make sure you get all the 1000's marks out and feather the paint edge back. now grey scotch say 8-10 inches around where your 2000's marks are. now when you back mask fold your tape in 3rd's, so you have abit that stuck to it's self and abit with sticky on it. this will give a real soft edge. use this to back mask and paper as usual. now when you paint it do it as you did before to cover your 2000's marks but dont go to the tape edge just far enough to cover your sanding marks. now when your sanding marks are covered and your have a couple of coats on, on your last coat try to flick the paint out and faid it in to the pannel. don't worry about dry overspray it kinda suposed to be like that. so now when you come to polish it gently, you remove the dry spray carefully it will have a blended effect and no edges. never paint to a tape edge lol. the proper way is using faid out thinners, i have heard you can buy it in aerosol for but ive never seen it. if you can get i,t where your dry overspray is, you very carfully dust it over your faiding area and it will help break the overspray down and make a very nice blend. and if done right no polishing required:biggrin: hope this helps

Post 615622 by Tomcat on 2013-06-11 19:36:37

Did you prime upto the tape line a well or did you just put colour upto it?.. If it's just the colour then just flat back the tape line a little with some 1200's followed by some 1500's, then polish it back upto a shine with some G3 compound, you wont get rid of it completely but you will soften the line.When your repainting something like that your always best painting into a bodyline or an edge that way you can lose the join on the line. Don't know if it's just my eyes but I can't see a mask line in any of those photo's, the only thing I can see is the overspray onto the bumper insert.

Post 615678 by no1tosh on 2013-06-11 21:50:19

yep i agree, i should have mentioned about going to a swage line. i was eating my tea at the same time lol

Post 616175 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-13 20:56:14

[QUOTE=no1tosh;615619]hey,looks good what you need to do is leave it alone for a week to let the paint cure. sand away your edges with say 1000's and then go over all of you fresh paint with 2000's. Make sure you get all the 1000's marks out and feather the paint edge back. now grey scotch say 8-10 inches around where your 2000's marks are. now when you back mask fold your tape in 3rd's, so you have abit that stuck to it's self and abit with sticky on it. this will give a real soft edge. use this to back mask and paper as usual. now when you paint it do it as you did before to cover your 2000's marks but dont go to the tape edge just far enough to cover your sanding marks. now when your sanding marks are covered and your have a couple of coats on, on your last coat try to flick the paint out and faid it in to the pannel. don't worry about dry overspray it kinda suposed to be like that. so now when you come to polish it gently, you remove the dry spray carefully it will have a blended effect and no edges. never paint to a tape edge lol. the proper way is using faid out thinners, i have heard you can buy it in aerosol for but ive never seen it. if you can get i,t where your dry overspray is, you very carfully dust it over your faiding area and it will help break the overspray down and make a very nice blend. and if done right no polishing required:biggrin: hope this helps[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=Tomcat;615622]Did you prime upto the tape line a well or did you just put colour upto it?.. If it's just the colour then just flat back the tape line a little with some 1200's followed by some 1500's, then polish it back upto a shine with some G3 compound, you wont get rid of it completely but you will soften the line.When your repainting something like that your always best painting into a bodyline or an edge that way you can lose the join on the line. Don't know if it's just my eyes but I can't see a mask line in any of those photo's, the only thing I can see is the overspray onto the bumper insert.[/QUOTE] Cheers chaps. I masked too close to the primer above the rear bumper. I was worried about getting fresh paint on old plus my spraying technique is a lot to be desired considering its the first time with one. However as the days have gone by its certainly less noticable but I can see the paint isn't smooth so I assume sanding it back with 1500-2000 will iron out the lumps? I am thinking of giving it another few coats as I cant remember how many I did and in some areas its not great. I also tried sanding the edges down with 1500 and have inadvertantly sanded down too much on the old paint. So, §§§§§§ed up

Post 616193 by no1tosh on 2013-06-13 21:53:31

where abouts are you from pal?

Post 616204 by Tomcat on 2013-06-13 22:27:23

[QUOTE=Haizum74;616175]Cheers chaps. I masked too close to the primer above the rear bumper. I was worried about getting fresh paint on old plus my spraying technique is a lot to be desired considering its the first time with one. However as the days have gone by its certainly less noticable but I can see the paint isn't smooth so I assume sanding it back with 1500-2000 will iron out the lumps? I am thinking of giving it another few coats as I cant remember how many I did and in some areas its not great. I also tried sanding the edges down with 1500 and have inadvertantly sanded down too much on the old paint. So, §§§§§§ed up[/QUOTE] Takes a LOT of practise to get good at painting, I've been doing it for years and I still §§§§ up every now and again so don't feel to bad. If your going to cut the paint back make sure you've got a good thickness of paint on there before you do, dont want to be halway through making it shiny and then breakthrough to the primer do you?. If your going to repaint over the stuff you've already put down then just give it a quick flat with some 800's.

Post 616209 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-13 22:39:08

[QUOTE=Tomcat;616204]Takes a LOT of practise to get good at painting, I've been doing it for years and I still §§§§ up every now and again so don't feel to bad. If your going to cut the paint back make sure you've got a good thickness of paint on there before you do, dont want to be halway through making it shiny and then breakthrough to the primer do you?. If your going to repaint over the stuff you've already put down then just give it a quick flat with some 800's.[/QUOTE] Well to be fair I shouldnt be too hard on myself, its the bumper section Im most annoyed with, the rest of it looks fine. Glad to know the pro's still mess up now and again lol.

Post 616211 by Tomcat on 2013-06-13 22:42:31

Christ I'm hardly a pro bud, just a very keen amateur.

Post 616226 by Immingham on 2013-06-13 23:01:41

spraying is a dark art, of which i'm sodding useless.:help: . So i wouldn't be to hard on yourself, at least you got a decent colour match. last bit of spaying i tried it ended up being a cack finish and also the wrong soddin shade of red.. EPIC FAIL. :rotfl:

Post 616242 by Tomcat on 2013-06-13 23:22:59

Getting a good match is sadly down to who you get the paint off. I use to suppliers, one for just buying paint off for unimportant jobs and another for when it has to be right. The first guy charges about £30 a litre for basecoat the second guy charges nearly £60. One of my old 850's was Silver sand metallic and I had to paint it, I went to the first guy and got the paint, it was completely the wrong shade, after 3 attempts it was just getting further and further away. In the end I went to the second guy, paid the more expensive rate and it was bang on first time.

Post 616688 by Haizum74 on 2013-06-15 18:15:13

[QUOTE=Tomcat;616242]Getting a good match is sadly down to who you get the paint off. I use to suppliers, one for just buying paint off for unimportant jobs and another for when it has to be right. The first guy charges about £30 a litre for basecoat the second guy charges nearly £60. One of my old 850's was Silver sand metallic and I had to paint it, I went to the first guy and got the paint, it was completely the wrong shade, after 3 attempts it was just getting further and further away. In the end I went to the second guy, paid the more expensive rate and it was bang on first time.[/QUOTE] I got it from motosave, the guys there are a good bunch. Turns out the colour is 47% white with two types of yellow and some black too. Never thought of black being involved (no racism here like lol). Suffice to say the last place I went to said I didnt need a clear coat over the top coat.