question, the bottom hole in the photo, when it isn't blocked how far can you push a screwdriver inside? i tried to push the screwdriver in and it didnt go in very far but it felt like it was hitting metal
question, the bottom hole in the photo, when it isn't blocked how far can you push a screwdriver inside? i tried to push the screwdriver in and it didnt go in very far but it felt like it was hitting metal
Not far at all frank it has two sharp bends
T5frankie (Monday 16th December 2013)
Yup or as mentioned put a pipe in it and blow that will tell you straight away
no prob
For the lower port connect a 5/8" hose to it and blow through it, if the oil in the sump bubbles (you can hear it if you take the oil filler cap off) the port is clear, if you can't blow through it it's blocked.
You can try sending a length of 1/4" clear PVC tube down the port as far as possible, it should be possible to get it all the way to the base of the sump, the crud goes in to the clear pipe which you can pull out then cut off the blocked portion and keep repeating. I went through about 3 Meters of clear pipe doing this until it came out clean!
If you get it clean as far as the base of the sump but you still can't blow through it the last part might unblock by spraying carb cleaner down the port and leaving it overnight then try the 5/8" hose and blow through it, if this unblocks it change the engine oil as carb cleaner will be in the sump - If this fails pull the sump as it is the only way to clear the last portion out if clogged up solid - Mike
Doesn't sound good, fingers crossed it's just a blocked PCV although you would have thought it shouldn't have blocked up after 2,000 miles and the engine should have been done when it was built.
If the PCV is all clear then you've got combustion gases either bypassing the rings or the valves and that is not good... Either way it shouldn't happen with or without forged pistons as the clearances should have been checked with a rebuilt engine the rings should be tighter to the bore and allow less combustion gases passed which should reduce crankcase pressure.... This is why I said on my project thread that you can't rely on honing marks in the bores as a good indication of wear it needs to be checked and measured...
Anyway fingers crossed it's just a simple PCV issue
should i get a compression check done?
Proceed along the PCV route first to be 100% but the next course of action would either be a compression test or a leak down test but neither maybe conclusive....
Another cause could be bore washing or a failed oil control/piston ring where it's been over fueling.. But that would need to have been relatively severe to have caused an issue so early on, has the smoking just started suddenly or has it been a problem since day one?
1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,
ive read that borewash creates excessive crankcase pressure, it doesn't look good
Check pcv then check afrs too and also compression test .but if it's bore wash you would normally smell the fuel at the exhaust too .do the basics first and go from there .you can get a comp tester for around 15 to 20 pounds mate .and also check colour if plugs too that will give a lot if info to what's happening in the engine combustion chamber
Last edited by smithy; Monday 16th December 2013 at 21:18.
T5frankie (Monday 16th December 2013)
Not being funny but was the engine rebuilt by a pro?
Yep, it causes wear to the bores and due to increased carbon deposits can cause the piston rings to stick and this allows the tollerances between the rings and bores to increase allowing combustion gases to bypass and increase crankcase pressures...
I may be wrong but i think the engine is from niles
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