At least it's not the fuel pump or sender unit. Good luck with it, unfortunately electronics are not my strong point...
Regards
James
At least it's not the fuel pump or sender unit. Good luck with it, unfortunately electronics are not my strong point...
Regards
James
Right, I'm home.....
Car was collected at 0900 this morning and taken to the garage, around 1430 I had a phone call.
They had checked for flooding and found no sign this was my problem, the compression was good, so they plugged in the code reader and found the 'ECM not found' code which I had been told about previously.
They suggested flashing the ECM I had, cheapest option, and so thats what they did.....no luck.
They are now 99% sure it is the actual ECM, and they have given me 2 choices, as they do not have and cannot source a reconditioned unit I can either send mine away to be tested and possibly fixed (approx 2 weeks) at a cost of £400.00 or go for a new unit from Volvo at £700.00
Obviously whichever way I go I will need to flash the new unit as well.
BUT.....take a look at this (last post)
http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-v...t-start-55375/
NOW what should I do ? Also where would I stand if I gave them the go ahead and it turned out not to resolve the problem ?
.....any feedback GREATLY appreciated.
How much will a new car (with all it's possible foibles) cost?
That's the question that's kept the Big Sweed out of the scrappy for the last 18 months.
Like I've said before, the car is perfect, I'd spend the money.
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
Can't a broken car ECM be used? I'm sure there are few being broken.
Current Garage:
1997 960 3.0L 24v - Polestar...(Honest guv..!!)
1997 855 T5 S - stripped to 1300kgs gross weight - 14.2sec qtr(rank 17*)
2001 V40 T4 SE - 14.199@100.15MPH - Hybrid Turbo/VXR injectors and DeCat(Rank 15*)
*Data Sept 2013
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Press them for some sort of guarantee... they're a volvo specialist after all. It may be a complicated car but it's still a car and it's built by Volvo specialists.
If they can't say yes or no then they may be in the wrong business.
(this is the angle I'd go from any-hoo)
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
Could you buy another ecu off a breaker and get the specialist to clone yours? Got to be cheaper than a 'reconditioned' one?
1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.
D'oh, that'll teach me to read posts properly
1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.
hi have had this same thing on my 96 850r started her up moved 2 foot turned off would not start sounded like there was no compression called the AA very nice man, connected battery boost pack and put foot flat to the floor after a few minutes she started up fine, has happened again since so i did the same and she started up ok just a thought this might help
If there's no communication to the ECM, it's the ECM itself.
I've repaired a few units for a small fee but I'm a great distance from you guys, so that's out of the equation.
You can take a CEM, ECM and the car keys from a donor (scrapped) vehicle of the same year and make and use them though.
V70 Graham (Tuesday 6th November 2012)
No communication means its not working or no connection.If the wires ok than the actual unit.
V70 Graham (Tuesday 6th November 2012)
In my experience this is not always the case. I forget which make but some of the cars out there are actually programmed to switch off the injectors when WOT, if the engine is not actually running. This can be advantagious when a car engine is flooded because it prevents further fuel being injected.
I too have never heard of the 'Lawnmower effect'. In the trade, a car that is flooded with fuel and doesn't start is commonly known as being 'borewashed'. Anyway...as far a Graham's V70 is concerned, i would be checking the following:
1: Battery voltage above 12.2v and cranks the engine
2: Check for 12v and 5v references at injectors / MAF (this will rule out ECU fault/if 5v is present then the ECU is powered up and working)
3: Injectors switching on crank? (This will eliminate ECU, crankshaft sensor fault and immobilisor)
4: Fuel pump current draw? (check at the fuse - should be between 5 - 8amps)
If i found the above to be all present and correct and the car does not start, then as far as i'm concerned the car is flooded as Graham has already admitted to starting and switching off the car in a very short time.
You do not need to pour oil into cylinders to irradicate this issue. Simply remove the spark plugs then clean and dry. Then with car battery connected to either a powerful boost pack/doner car with good jump leads that can carry 200AMPS without melting or a battery charger that has a boost start facility, crank the engine over for no more than 10 seconds each time with a minute inbetween to cool down. This will irradicate the borewash and prevent overheating the starter motor. You only need do this a few times. Refit the spark plugs, refit the fuel pump fuse then crank her over (without touching the throttle). Car should start.
I find it very hard to believe that the dealer are pinning this down to a faulty ecu. (BTW, ECM and ECU in Volvo speak are the same thing. Engine control Module or Unit are both the same thing).
If the RAC man did his job properly, the above 4 checks take no more than 15 minutes. Tools needed are a Multi meter and a Noid light or LED tester for switching at the injectors and an AMP clamp.
Just throwing this out there, but nobody has mentioned doing a battery reset! If any of the ECU's has had a hissy fit it stops working or freezes. SImply removing the earth off the battery for 5 minutes then refitting often cures the problem and restores everything back to normal.
Works on all makes and models (you just have to becareful when reconnecting the battery as some cars have a certain procedure ie Volvo P2 models - you MUST have the ignition ON before reconnecting the earth)
EXAMPLE: Volvo V50 2.0D, cut out halfway up the driveway after driving home from work. Car was an AUTO and was also stuck in D. After a minute the customer managed to get the gear select into P but then it still wouldn't start. I arrived and carried out a few simple checks including checking for any fault codes, none were stored. Disconnected battery.....refitted and vehicle started. Everything restored to normal operation. Conclusion was the car's Gearbox ecu had a hissy fit causing car to cut out. The reason why the car wouldn't start was because the ECU thought it was still in D, therefore preventing the engine from starting (built in safety). After powering down the ECU and rebooting...the correct gear was selected, ie P and the car would then start. Mechanically all was well as i followed the car to the garage, just incase there was an inherent gearbox fault.
You should be asking the Dealer these Q's Graham before you shell out £700 for a new ECU!!
As far as the Diagnostic codes...They are there as an aid to diagnostics and not the Be ALL and END all to the inherent fault. It does pi@@ me off when ppl and or dealers jump to the wrong conclusion and assume that just because a diagnostics reader says: ECM - No communication, does NOT mean that your ECM if ££££ed! You need to do the basics first and always assume that its something simple.
I hope that the dealer find the fault and that it doesn't cost you dear.
Last edited by LeeT5; Tuesday 6th November 2012 at 07:08.
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
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Just to ask if you fitted a second hand unit that is not coded to the car would you get a not coded to car fault if you did then you would know that power was getting there , just a idea ?.
V70 Graham (Tuesday 6th November 2012)
[QUOTE=LeeT5;54 It does pi@@ me off when ppl and or dealers jump to the wrong conclusion and assume that just because a diagnostics reader says: ECM - No communication, does NOT mean that your ECM if ££££ed! You need to do the basics first and always assume that its something simple.[/QUOTE]
U would expect all the basic checks done prior concluding a £700 needs replacing,wouldn`t u?Tbh I don`t know the set up of me7 so can`t really comment but all the facts indicate on ECM so lets wait and c.I know it`s a bit of money tp spend Graham but u won`t find the same one thats for sure so it`s worth it.
M-R-P (Tuesday 6th November 2012)
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