easy [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4jSHcHue8w&feature=channel&list=UL[/ame]
easy [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4jSHcHue8w&feature=channel&list=UL[/ame]
Right, I've got the offending alloy strapped up to our works van. Just about to go ahead with this, but I've had a thought. Will it damage the suspension strut at all? I have polybushed wishbones, but I'm a bit worried about the shock load on the strut. What about the CV joint, will that suffer?
I think you'll be fine .....just make sure you secure the opposite wheel to a tree or concrete post.
I wonder if some of the problems with locking wheel nuts stem from garages zippin' em up with airguns?
I took the wifes car to have new tyres last year and was horrified to see the fitter getting giddy with the airgun - I torqued them all up on my return home.
I imagine lots of independent garages don't bother torquing wheels up either....
Regarding zipping them up with an airgun: I actually torque my wheel nuts with a torque wrench. Nip them all up hand tight with a wheel brace, then torque the standard nuts. Then back the torque wrech off and do the lockers. This is what had been done prior to this episode. One of my collegues has been in the auto game for a while, he reckons the lockers 'stretch' when tightening then relax, causing them to hold tighter than you intended to tighten them.
Errr, ripping it off with a van may cause some damage to the car and will definately damage the wheel. That being the case, why not just cut it off with a grinder and save your suspension?
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
Or, put the other bolts in loose (like not doing anything but there to catch the wheel when it falls off) then drive round in circles until the offending bolt loosens?
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
Only kidding Martin! Used your trick, however I used a 19mm socket on mine. Used my Hellfrauds trade card, got 4 of their professional series 19mm star drive (not the hex) sockets with 1/2" drive (£2.40 each), wailed them on with a copper hammer and GENTLY eased the bolt out. Sucess. I have 4 19mm sockets, permanantly mated to old volvo locking wheel nuts.
Note: You will need one socket per wheel. Even if you get the locker out of it, the star drive point will have been machined by the very very hard chrome head of the bolt.
The socket needs to be driven on all the way. Only getting the socket on the chrome head will not work, it needs to bite into the main bolt under it.
M-R-P (Thursday 26th April 2012)
Pmsl!
The 0ne 3/4 " socket worked fine for all four of mine, It grabbed the outer lip and pushed the anti-hammer-a-socket-on ring out the way. Done the lot in no time but the socket is mullered now tho, I had to hammer the 1/2" extension bar into it to get the 4th bolt off lol.
Good idea using the star type of socket, I forgot to mention that bit
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
I thought I was done with this after replacing all the locking wheel nuts with normal nuts and getting 2 new front tyres.
Now one of the wheels with the new tyre is losing air.
Took it to Kwik fit who said there was no slow puncure but the wheel required a refurb/repair. I could see the air bubbling out uncer the water on the rim. Now got it booked in on Wednesday for a refurb/repair at £55+vat. I have not kerbed the car so I assume they damaged it when replacing the tyre at the Volvo dealers (not going to ba able to prove that). I am hoping I will have this car running as I would like soon!
2005 V70 T5 - remapped to 315bhp 440nm
Dang. It's so frustrating when you get these silly weeping sore problems. you know the type, nothing serious, but it leaves you completley flat and ruins the enjoyment of the other 99.9999% of the car. We've all been there!
Before LeeT5 get's in first: Kwik Fit- Well there's your problem!
my local tyre place paints the inside of my wheels with a rubberized paint before fitting my tyres very rarely have any problems with air loss at the bead
you can get sets to remove lockers off ebay for between £25 and £35 reuseable as well
Hi the lockers I fitted have 17mm key not the 19mm ones which give you a bit more room in the alloy if I have a problem but just apply a bit of copper slip and use a torque wrench and don't let a tyre fitter near them with there air guns and you should be ok.
Also seen a tyre fitter change the tyre when rim still on the car as could not get rim off the car just didn't balance the wheel.
Last edited by Harvey; Monday 21st May 2012 at 21:15.
Back again.
I decided to check that my lockers were not siezed prior to puting the car into the main dealers on wednesday.
After the saga with the genuine volvo locking bolts, I let the tyre garage fit some top quality aftermarket ones. However, yet again the garage put them in too tight, and didn't use any copperslip. I managed to get 3 out before the key mangled itself. I'm now left with one bolt remaining and I've just called it a night after hammering various sockets over it and even trying to weld sockets to it.
Turns out it's top quality aftermarket because if you havent got the key, it's not ocming out. I believe they are very specifically designed to resist Mr. Peacheys preferred method, and are made of a steel alloy that doesnt weld too well.
Will re-conviene tomorrow.
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