Getting it off is the easy bit! (And no removing the pump is not necessary). as I rememeber, I think removing the rad pipe feeding into the t stat housing can improve access.
Getting it off is the easy bit! (And no removing the pump is not necessary). as I rememeber, I think removing the rad pipe feeding into the t stat housing can improve access.
Volvo ABS ECU Repair
Join my projecteers tribe - Old Volvos Never Die - They just get faster.
Visit my VPCUK garage and my YouTube channel - WobblyDave72
The above picture shows the most common failure. It is tucked back out of sight and most people don't even know it's there. To find it on the passenger side of the intake manifold, look down below the radiator hose that goes from your thermostat housing to the radiator. The elbow is on the end of the manifold inboard of the power steering pump. If you take a bungee cord and wrap it around the radiator hose and pull it up on top of the power steering pump you can get a better look at the elbow. You can fit your hand in there and gently feel the elbow to see if it has any holes or it's soft. You can't see it in the picture but there is a green clamp on the hose where it connects to the manifold. I use a 12" pry bar and several long needle nose pliers to gently pry the elbow off the manifold, and then the long needle nose pliers to work the elbow off the plastic line. It is a tricky operation and if it is your first time, the easier way is to move the power steering pump out of the way, which will give you unrestricted access to the elbow.
SAM ECU
Custom Super 60 18T Turbo With Uprated 300/70 W/G
Blitz Dual SBC Boost Controller
Blue Injectors
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Custom 1 Box 3" Turbo-Back Exhaust
TurboXS Type R-HFL
K&N Style Cone Filter With Cold Feed
87 Deg Stat
Full Poly Bushed
Custom 60mm Drop Suspension
Strut Brace
18" Shadow Chrome Pegs
305mm Drilled Brembo's With Ferodo DS Pads
6000k HID Kit
Flat Areo Style Wipers
See All The Pics Of SAM Here
"I use a 12" pry bar and several long needle nose pliers to gently pry the elbow off the manifold."
12" pry bar sounds like something you'd use for breaking and entering. SEVERAL long needle nose pliers makes me think I may need several pairs of hands too. Reckon it'll be one of those "came off fine, but a slippery swine to refit the new one."
LMAO
You iz a funny guy.
Be brave I'm sure it will go fine, and at worst take off the pump
SAM ECU
Custom Super 60 18T Turbo With Uprated 300/70 W/G
Blitz Dual SBC Boost Controller
Blue Injectors
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Custom 1 Box 3" Turbo-Back Exhaust
TurboXS Type R-HFL
K&N Style Cone Filter With Cold Feed
87 Deg Stat
Full Poly Bushed
Custom 60mm Drop Suspension
Strut Brace
18" Shadow Chrome Pegs
305mm Drilled Brembo's With Ferodo DS Pads
6000k HID Kit
Flat Areo Style Wipers
See All The Pics Of SAM Here
If you weren#t so far away I would do it for you!
Volvo ABS ECU Repair
Join my projecteers tribe - Old Volvos Never Die - They just get faster.
Visit my VPCUK garage and my YouTube channel - WobblyDave72
There's that LOVE againOriginally Posted by dave850R
SAM ECU
Custom Super 60 18T Turbo With Uprated 300/70 W/G
Blitz Dual SBC Boost Controller
Blue Injectors
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Custom 1 Box 3" Turbo-Back Exhaust
TurboXS Type R-HFL
K&N Style Cone Filter With Cold Feed
87 Deg Stat
Full Poly Bushed
Custom 60mm Drop Suspension
Strut Brace
18" Shadow Chrome Pegs
305mm Drilled Brembo's With Ferodo DS Pads
6000k HID Kit
Flat Areo Style Wipers
See All The Pics Of SAM Here
Appreciate the offer anyway Dave!
Ok, just to clarify, Hardest part (after doing 7) is getting the retaining clip off....its a bitch Basically you can remove the pas pump and it does make it easier, however removing the pas pupm is harder than doing the elbow so i never bothered.There is an electrical plug to the left, its the T-stat wiring, move it out of the way or your hands will bleed. Then using your fingers bend the clip that holds the rubber hose onto the manifold so that you can get the pliers onto it, its hard graft but possible, then yank it off, remove excess rubber.
Then, the pipe that you have hanging loose....pull the injector rail cover off by pulling towards you, feed the pipe with the split rubber hose up behind the injection rail, it gives you that extra inch to play with (ooo errr)
Using a stanley knife cut the old rubber off the plastic vac hose, DO NOT PULL IT, you will snap the plastic hose for sure, and then you really are in the ££££e....get a bowl of hot water and stretch the new elbow pipe at one end, use a pen or something else about the diameter of the manifold connector, bigger if you can get one. The non streched end of the elbow will easily go onto the plastic vac hose.....when on, feed the pipe back to its original place and then attach it to the manifold If i were you i would use any old vac hose, and make it a few inches longer, makes life soooo much easier
Cheers for the inside angle Justin. Am going to be tackling it tomorrow, so nice to know about the warm water etc. One thing though - It feels like the non-manifold end of the vac hose doesn't surround a thinner plastic tube like elsewhere, but goes inside a larger diameter section of flexible hose. Is this normal, or has someone 'modified' the set-up? Was tempted yesterday to just pull that bit out, as I need to show the dealer what size the hose is, but think I'll approach with more caution now!
Nik, that is just a foam sleeve to protect the pipe from manifold heat, you may need to cut it back when doing the job aswel
Sorry forgot that bit
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks