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Thread: sticky valves:(

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    sticky valves:(

    just tried to start my 94 t5 and no joy, can hear the pistons but no compression, the cam belt is in one piece so i can only assume sticky valves, does anyone know how to cure this on an AUTO? with the manual i could tow it but what can i do with the auto? any help much appreciated as im of the edinburgh tomorrow at 3am heeellllllllp!
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    Have you done a compression test ? Sticking valves aren't really that common in my experience. If a valve has stuck on one cylinder it would still fire up on the other four.

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    The last time you had the engine running was it only for a couple of seconds i.e moving the car 2 metres along the drive etc???

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    yup, moved it to get the trooper out, then put it back. went out 1hr later and feck all happening? what do you think it may be?
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    silly question have you checked there is fuel getting to the fuel rail with the bleed nipple ??
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    ye, first thing i checked was the cam belt they fuel then spent 20min pissing about with the gear selector for no reason other than blind hope
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    thanks for trying boys i have just moved all my stuff into the trooper(going to be a noisy journey down) if anyone has any ideas then please post them and i will give it a go when i get home tomorrow night.

    nice to be back, spent the last 2month roaming the queens estate
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    Quote Originally Posted by deerworrier
    yup, moved it to get the trooper out, then put it back. went out 1hr later and feck all happening? what do you think it may be?
    Do a search on the forum, its been mentioned a few times before, iirc take the spark plugs out and put a drop of oil down each hole, this increases the compression when everything is connected and you try to start it again.

    Next time, leave the car running for more than a few seconds.

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    Quote Originally Posted by deerworrier
    yup, moved it to get the trooper out, then put it back. went out 1hr later and feck all happening? what do you think it may be?
    I think blackbeast may have got it spot on with his question here.

    These cars don't like being started and switched off immediately as the engine floods.

    Either take the spark plugs out for a few hours to allow the fuel to evaporate or get a set of jump leads and keep cranking until the engine starts (you'll need the leads because you'll drain the battery trying to start her.

    Regards

    Andy

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    We used to get a similar problem with K-series Rovers. Owners would start them up and movethem out of the garage then turn them off. The next time they came to start them ..no compression. We used to clamp off the fuel supply pipe so it could no longer inject any fuel then spin them over a few times to build up the compression again.....it didn't always work mind you !

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    Quote Originally Posted by deerworrier
    just tried to start my 94 t5 and no joy, can hear the pistons but no compression, the cam belt is in one piece so i can only assume sticky valves, does anyone know how to cure this on an AUTO? with the manual i could tow it but what can i do with the auto? any help much appreciated as im of the edinburgh tomorrow at 3am heeellllllllp!
    Firstly contrary to popular belief this was a common problem on the early 850 engines pre 95. The lifters would stick and thus you would get no compression, to add insult to injury all the time you crank the engine you are injecting fuel so now you are making the problem even worse in the form of wet plugs and borewashing (ie loss of compression due to oil being washed away from piston rings by the unburnt fuel).

    CURE:

    Firstly ensure you have either a donner car or battery charger so your battery does not discharge on crank. It helps if the engine turns over fast on crank.
    secondly, remove the fuel pump fuse - don't ask me what one it is cos it's 0240hrs and i'm in my dressing gown - read your handbook, it will tell you.
    Then crank the engine with your foot flat on the throttle, to allow lots of air in to dry the plugs and secondly to regain compression and hopefully free those sticking lifters. Crank 3 times for ten seconds only. DO NOT burn out your starter motor.
    Now replace the fuel pump fuse, turn on ignition and allow fuel pump to prime fuel lines and crank again. DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE.

    Hopefully engine will cough and splutter and should start, if not repeat above only once.

    If the car does not start then pull out the plugs and clean and dry them. replace and try again.

    Only do the above if you know you have a) a spark and b) Fuel.

    This is the only method that works as i use it on a daily basis - i'm an AA Patrol just so u know so i come across this daily.

    Do not tow start or you will shag yer catalyst. If you cannot get it started then seek help.. trust me the sticking lifters are a problem on early 850s. They sorted it on the late 95 on models. 20v engines suffer the worse.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Quote Originally Posted by mraldonnelly
    I think blackbeast may have got it spot on with his question here.

    These cars don't like being started and switched off immediately as the engine floods.

    Either take the spark plugs out for a few hours to allow the fuel to evaporate or get a set of jump leads and keep cranking until the engine starts (you'll need the leads because you'll drain the battery trying to start her.

    Regards

    Andy
    NO NO do as i said above or you will flood it. No multipoint or single point fuel injected car likes to be started and then switched off straight away. Always pull the fuel pump fuse!!

    Please note: some cars ie Rover 200, 400 you cannot pull fuel pump fuse cos this also supplys the inertia switch and feed to main relay. So you wont get a spark or crank, on those you do clamp the fuel lines and they are a bitch to start in the cold. NB. Petrol wont evaporate in cold weather so outing the plugs will do jack.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    leet5, thank you v.much. did exactly as you said and 10min work and the beast was back. worked spot on. thanks again


    Well seduce my ancient maritime footwear

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    Exclamation for future reference

    Quote Originally Posted by deerworrier
    ye, first thing i checked was the cam belt they fuel then spent 20min pissing about with the gear selector for no reason other than blind hope
    If it were the gear selector my friend the engine would not have even cranked. I believe you were thinking it was the inhibitor switch?
    This prevents the engine starting should the car be in any gear other than Park or neutral.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by deerworrier
    leet5, thank you v.much. did exactly as you said and 10min work and the beast was back. worked spot on. thanks again


    Glad to be of help. As a rule if ever i need to move my car to say get in the garage, i always leave it running for 5 minutes. This ensures that it does not flood. (Thats one happy customer).
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights


 

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