OIL for V70 T5

[NugentS]

Silkolene Pro-S 5w-40

I use the same stuff. Seems to work. I've even had some UOA done nd its come up with good figures.

Sean

[oilman]

5w-40 synthetic would be the best suited.

10w-40's are generally semi-synthetic. They are inferior to synthetics and require shorter drain periods.

I would say that 10w-60 is too thick causing additional friction, heat and wear plus lower BHP at the wheels and poorer fuel consumption.

Cheers
Simon

[MattB]

Some interesting, but mixed views on here guys.
So, without wanting to drag on too much with this - what's the verdict?

10w40 Part Synthetic?
10w40 Fully Synthetic?
5w40 Fully Synthetic?

10w-40's are generally semi-synthetic. They are inferior to synthetics and require shorter drain periods.

does this matter if we are draining every 5k (half Volvo's suggested interval)?

[t5owner]

I caught something on one of the discovery channels over the weekend discussing about oils

5w is used in racing cars as it gives more BHP apperently but is not recommended for daily driving as it`s so thin it is apparently detrimental to the surfaces of the bearings in the engine this coming from a chap who works for maclaren and designs and builds their racing engines

So more light is shed on this just to totally confuse everybody

Cheers

stuart

[oilman]

That's plain nonsense, the lower the w number the better flow when cold and therefore less engine wear.

Cheers
Simon

[SaffronC70]

That's plain nonsense, the lower the w number the better flow when cold and therefore less engine wear.

Cheers
Simon

what about when hot ?

[oilman]

When hot, the 5w is almost irrelevent as then its all about the second number.

The first part of the number with the #w is the cold crank viscosity, the thinner it is at cold temps the quicker it works its way around the engine.

The second number relates to the viscosity of the oil when hot, this is measured at 100 deg and for most Volvo's 5w/10w and SEA 30/40/50 depending on use/mods and age etc.

Formular 1 cars run on 0w-20.

Cheers

Simon.

[MattB]

Thanks chaps - I guess the key question remaining is Part or Fully Synthetic?

[MattB]

Just had a look at Haynes - no clues there, so I'll just close my eyes and pick randomly at Halfrauds tomorrow!

[oilman]

Just had a look at Haynes - no clues there, so I'll just close my eyes and pick randomly at Halfrauds tomorrow!

10w-40 semi or 5w-40 full synthetic, either one is fine.

If you want the better quality oil and a longer drain interval go for a full synthetic.

CHeers

Simon.

[BlackBeast]

Simon, will there be any discounts offered for the members of this forum (even though i have enough Pro S to last me for a long while yet)?

p.s Like the new website

[oilman]

Simon, will there be any discounts offered for the members of this forum (even though i have enough Pro S to last me for a long while yet)?

p.s Like the new website

If the admins would like to contact me then it can be arranged without a problem but access to the members area of our site is granted on an individual member basis to ensure that people who are not entitled do not benefit.

Cheers
Simon

[weasel]

some might say it's best to continue using the oil that has been used previously. apparently, different detergents in different oils act differently upon the seals hence people having to replace seals when changing to mobil 1.

[pyrotechnictigger]

I have now heard from several peeps (none rocket scientists but mechanics) that changing oil too often is a bad thing. I also know a very good mechanic who swears by Millers.

My old UNO would only ever do 95. Put fully synth halfords in it and it would crack 100. Simple proof to me that fully synth = less internal resistance but does that mean more wear?

Oilman, good time to join the forum when ANOTHER oil thread starts up Welcome to the forum

[S60D5]

My mothers T5 runs on Castrol Magnatec GTX 10w40.

My fathers T5 runs on "any" semi synth 10w40. Usually french stuff which is cheap.

My old T5 runs on Mobil 1 5w40 semi synth.

[oilman]

Actually synthetics do give better performance due to uniform molecules but it's the viscosity that really makes the difference.

This explains what I mean:

Quote:

Must Have MORE Power!

Motorcars are bought for all sorts of reasons, but enthusiasts like lots of power. To get more power, a lot of fuel must be burnt, and more than half of it, sadly, gets thrown away as waste heat. For every litre of fuel burnt, 60% of the energy goes as waste heat into the exhaust and cooling system. A turbocharger can extract a few percent as useful energy and convert it into pressure on the intake side, but only 40-45% is left, and only 25% actually shows up as BHP at the flywheel. 6% goes in pumping air into the engine, 6% as oil drag losses and 2-3% as engine friction.

The oil deals with 97% of the friction; so reducing the remaining few percent is not easy. If you doubt that even ordinary oil has a massive effect, take a clean, dry 200 bhp engine, connect it to a dyno and start it up. It will only make 1 bhp for a few seconds. Now that’s real friction for you!

Oddly enough, people get starry-eyed about reducing friction, especially those half-wits who peddle silly “magic additives”, which have not the smallest effect on friction but rapidly corrode bearings and wallet contents. In fact, even a virtually impossible 50% reduction in the remaining engine friction would be no big deal, perhaps one or two bhp or a couple of extra miles per gallon.

Even More Power!

He place to look for extra power is in that 6% lost as oil drag. In a well-designed modern motor, the oil doesn’t have to cover up for wide clearances, poor oil pump capacity or flexy crankshafts, so it can be quite thin. How thin? Well take a look at these dyno results.

A while ago now, we ran three Silkolene performance oils in a Honda Blackbird motorcycle. this fearsome device is fitted with a light, compact, naturally aspirated 1100cc engine which turns out 120+ bhp at the back wheel. The normal fill for this one-year-old engine was 15w-50, so the first reading was taken using a fresh sump-fill of this grade. (The dyno was set up for EEC horsepower, i.e. Pessimistic)

15w-50
Max Power 127.9 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 75.8 ft-lbs @ 7300 rpm

After a flush-out and fill up with 5w-40 the readings were;

5w-40
Max Power 131.6 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 77.7 ft-lbs @ 7400 rpm

Then we tried an experimental grade, 0w-20 yes, 0w-20! This wasn’t as risky as you may think, because this grade had already done a season’s racing with the Kawasaki World Superbike Team, giving them some useful extra power with no reliability problems. (But it must be said, they were only interested in 200 frantic miles before the engines went back to Japan)

0w-20
Max Power 134.4 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 78.9 ft-lbs @ 7400 rpm

In other words, 3.7 bhp / 2.9% increase from 15w-50 to 5w-40, a 2.8 bhp / 2.1% increase from 5w-40 to 0w-20 or a 6.5 bhp / 5% overall. Not bad, just for changing the oil! More to the point, a keen bike owner would have paid at least £1000 to see less improvement than this using the conventional approach of exhaust/intake mods, ignition re-mapping etc.

Unquote:

We have proved this theory (drag, sprints and endurance) and have found gains of up to 5% more bhp when using a 5w-40 against a 10w-60. It's about viscous drag.

Cheers
Simon

[MacXC60T5]

bu---r me he seems to know whats he,s talking about LOL

[Engineer]

Actually synthetics do give better performance due to uniform molecules but it's the viscosity that really makes the difference.

This explains what I mean:

Quote:

Must Have MORE Power!

Motorcars are bought for all sorts of reasons, but enthusiasts like lots of power. To get more power, a lot of fuel must be burnt, and more than half of it, sadly, gets thrown away as waste heat. For every litre of fuel burnt, 60% of the energy goes as waste heat into the exhaust and cooling system. A turbocharger can extract a few percent as useful energy and convert it into pressure on the intake side, but only 40-45% is left, and only 25% actually shows up as BHP at the flywheel. 6% goes in pumping air into the engine, 6% as oil drag losses and 2-3% as engine friction.

The oil deals with 97% of the friction; so reducing the remaining few percent is not easy. If you doubt that even ordinary oil has a massive effect, take a clean, dry 200 bhp engine, connect it to a dyno and start it up. It will only make 1 bhp for a few seconds. Now that’s real friction for you!

Oddly enough, people get starry-eyed about reducing friction, especially those half-wits who peddle silly “magic additives”, which have not the smallest effect on friction but rapidly corrode bearings and wallet contents. In fact, even a virtually impossible 50% reduction in the remaining engine friction would be no big deal, perhaps one or two bhp or a couple of extra miles per gallon.

Even More Power!

He place to look for extra power is in that 6% lost as oil drag. In a well-designed modern motor, the oil doesn’t have to cover up for wide clearances, poor oil pump capacity or flexy crankshafts, so it can be quite thin. How thin? Well take a look at these dyno results.

A while ago now, we ran three Silkolene performance oils in a Honda Blackbird motorcycle. this fearsome device is fitted with a light, compact, naturally aspirated 1100cc engine which turns out 120+ bhp at the back wheel. The normal fill for this one-year-old engine was 15w-50, so the first reading was taken using a fresh sump-fill of this grade. (The dyno was set up for EEC horsepower, i.e. Pessimistic)

15w-50
Max Power 127.9 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 75.8 ft-lbs @ 7300 rpm

After a flush-out and fill up with 5w-40 the readings were;

5w-40
Max Power 131.6 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 77.7 ft-lbs @ 7400 rpm

Then we tried an experimental grade, 0w-20 yes, 0w-20! This wasn’t as risky as you may think, because this grade had already done a season’s racing with the Kawasaki World Superbike Team, giving them some useful extra power with no reliability problems. (But it must be said, they were only interested in 200 frantic miles before the engines went back to Japan)

0w-20
Max Power 134.4 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 78.9 ft-lbs @ 7400 rpm

In other words, 3.7 bhp / 2.9% increase from 15w-50 to 5w-40, a 2.8 bhp / 2.1% increase from 5w-40 to 0w-20 or a 6.5 bhp / 5% overall. Not bad, just for changing the oil! More to the point, a keen bike owner would have paid at least £1000 to see less improvement than this using the conventional approach of exhaust/intake mods, ignition re-mapping etc.

Unquote:

We have proved this theory (drag, sprints and endurance) and have found gains of up to 5% more bhp when using a 5w-40 against a 10w-60. It's about viscous drag.

Cheers
Simon

Hi Simon, very interesting information and you’re quite right about the viscous drag and possibly the oil additives, but what about the tighter manufacturing engine tolerances that have taken place over the last 15 years? As an example 0w-40 might be ok for a 2006 Volvo/Vauxhall/Ford engine but not so good for a 1994 850 T5 (UK climate conditions). I‘ve seen low viscous oils cause horrendous crankshaft bearing rumble, hydraulic valve actuation tapping and also seen the opposite effect of high viscous oils causing hydraulic tappet seizure. What's your view on all this?

[oilman]

Hi Simon, very interesting information and you’re quite right about the viscous drag and possibly the oil additives, but what about the tighter manufacturing engine tolerances that have taken place over the last 15 years? As an example 0w-40 might be ok for a 2006 Volvo/Vauxhall/Ford engine but not so good for a 1994 850 T5 (UK climate conditions). I‘ve seen low viscous oils cause horrendous crankshaft bearing rumble, hydraulic valve actuation tapping and also seen the opposite effect of high viscous oils causing hydraulic tappet seizure. What's your view on all this?

If you'd said 1974 I might have agreed and certainly don't endorse the use of a 0w-20 except for qualifying and drag applications but there is nothing wrong with a decent 5w-40 synthetic,

Cheers
Simon

[Engineer]

If you'd said 1974 I might have agreed and certainly don't endorse the use of a 0w-20 except for qualifying and drag applications but there is nothing wrong with a decent 5w-40 synthetic,

Cheers
Simon

I agree there is nothing wrong with decent 5w-40 synthetic oil but would you recommend it for all engines? The problems I mentioned were in fact on 1990-1999 high performance European and Japanese engines not pre-1975. High mileage engines would fair even worse I suspect if a low viscous oil were used? Your comments would be appreciated.