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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoleT-5R View Post
    From experience I can say that the M56 box from 850/v70 na 10v cars will give you an awesome track box acceleration is rapid and still able to clear 150 before hitting the std rev limiter, I have a quaife atb in mine for drag racing , which was a simple fit, but for track use I would replace that with a gripper though,
    So is the M56 gearbox different depending on which vehicle it's been pulled from? Will one fit the another platform or does it mount differently? To be honest, I get a bit annoyed at how for some reason 1st, 2nd and 3rd all feel extremely long, but in 5th at 70mph I'm only just off the boost on the turbo and if I go to 80mph on the motorway, I can hear it spooling and know how much fuel is being rinsed because of how far up the gear I am.

    What I would like is 5 fairly short gears, perhaps a max speed of 130 or so which is more than enough, and then an overdrive for the motorway to save fuel. Is there anything that would suit this application? I could understand if that sounds stupid, and I will be buying a more appropriate V70 D5 for a daily as soon as I've sold a fiesta ST I bought and fixed to sell, so the motorway cruising isn't that important. I'm more keen to make adequate use of the piddly 230hp than anything. Happy with it for a 2.0 obviously, but would love to be able to make better use of it.

    Weight reduction may also be continuing this weekend if I get time, and have purchased 2 pairs of H&R 15mm spacers and some 45mm bolts to fit them with, which should be with us next weekend. Will be buying a trolley jack as well so that I can finally use the axle stands I have properly, ££££ty little jack is driving me up the wall for when I just want to do a little driveway job.

    Meant to say, will probably be looking into LSD when I sort either a 2.4T swap or a T5, depending on what's more cost effective/fun/learning experience. Definitely going gripper though, every Volvo guy has recommended them so far. Quaife for the jap stuff, gripper for heavy euro stuff.

    As usual cheers guys



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  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProjectLolvo View Post
    So is the M56 gearbox different depending on which vehicle it's been pulled from? Will one fit the another platform or does it mount differently? To be honest, I get a bit annoyed at how for some reason 1st, 2nd and 3rd all feel extremely long, but in 5th at 70mph I'm only just off the boost on the turbo and if I go to 80mph on the motorway, I can hear it spooling and know how much fuel is being rinsed because of how far up the gear I am.

    What I would like is 5 fairly short gears, perhaps a max speed of 130 or so which is more than enough, and then an overdrive for the motorway to save fuel. Is there anything that would suit this application? I could understand if that sounds stupid, and I will be buying a more appropriate V70 D5 for a daily as soon as I've sold a fiesta ST I bought and fixed to sell, so the motorway cruising isn't that important. I'm more keen to make adequate use of the piddly 230hp than anything. Happy with it for a 2.0 obviously, but would love to be able to make better use of it.

    Weight reduction may also be continuing this weekend if I get time, and have purchased 2 pairs of H&R 15mm spacers and some 45mm bolts to fit them with, which should be with us next weekend. Will be buying a trolley jack as well so that I can finally use the axle stands I have properly, ££££ty little jack is driving me up the wall for when I just want to do a little driveway job.

    Meant to say, will probably be looking into LSD when I sort either a 2.4T swap or a T5, depending on what's more cost effective/fun/learning experience. Definitely going gripper though, every Volvo guy has recommended them so far. Quaife for the jap stuff, gripper for heavy euro stuff.

    As usual cheers guys



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    The 2.0l 10v box has the lowest and closest 1st,2nd and 3rd gear ratio's and a final drive of 4.45:1. The available std m56 final drive ratios were 4.00:1, 4.25:1, 4.45:1, the 4.45:1 from my experience drag racing and also from no the road driving, is very rapid through the box and 130mph is somewhere between 5500-6000 rpm iirc, obviously if your only running a 2.0l then a lot is to be gained in fitting a T5 lump, all though it would be quite a bit of work tbh, there are also other gearbox options such as m59 and m66 but I don't know much about these as far as ratio's and fitment go, but they are straight bolt up swaps (m59 would require driveshafts as these differ from m56) m66's are available from the ford st's iirc correctly but I couldn't tell you about FD's or ratios for those unfortunately....hope this helps.

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  4. #43
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    Cheers for the info brother, will start looking for a 10V gearbox at some point in the next month or so. Is it the M56H that I'm looking for? Think I'm on an M56L, but not 100% sure. Those ratios sound bang on though for what I'm after, nice one


    Has anyone ever had any experience with strut braces? Supposed to be polybushing the trans mount and the engine mounts, and thought I'd splash out and get the front and rear strut braces sorted while I'm there. Is there any point or are they a bit naff? From my (very limited) mechanic understanding, they benefit a heavy, front-wheel drive car best due to the tendency to flex and therefore understeer. If I'm honest, most of my issues currently are from a lack of grip (my tyres suck balls, and want an LSD) and from lift off oversteer, but I'm working that out with the adjustable dampers. Managed to get it to a point with pleasing slip angle, as long as I'm hell for leather into the bend. Its controllable, and actually sort of helps the enormous bulk around the corner. She's tried to bite my head off a couple of times, but after spending a good few hours getting used to the handling, it just makes me laugh every damn time, honestly it's better than I thought I would ever get and I've still foreseeably got miiiiiiiiiles to go

    As usual boys, any help greatly appreciated

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  6. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProjectLolvo View Post
    Cheers for the info brother, will start looking for a 10V gearbox at some point in the next month or so. Is it the M56H that I'm looking for? Think I'm on an M56L, but not 100% sure. Those ratios sound bang on though for what I'm after, nice one


    Has anyone ever had any experience with strut braces? Supposed to be polybushing the trans mount and the engine mounts, and thought I'd splash out and get the front and rear strut braces sorted while I'm there. Is there any point or are they a bit naff? From my (very limited) mechanic understanding, they benefit a heavy, front-wheel drive car best due to the tendency to flex and therefore understeer. If I'm honest, most of my issues currently are from a lack of grip (my tyres suck balls, and want an LSD) and from lift off oversteer, but I'm working that out with the adjustable dampers. Managed to get it to a point with pleasing slip angle, as long as I'm hell for leather into the bend. Its controllable, and actually sort of helps the enormous bulk around the corner. She's tried to bite my head off a couple of times, but after spending a good few hours getting used to the handling, it just makes me laugh every damn time, honestly it's better than I thought I would ever get and I've still foreseeably got miiiiiiiiiles to go

    As usual boys, any help greatly appreciated

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    A front strut brace will help with steering feel, though you don't want to go too stiff on the front end as that'll just cause more understeer, a rear strut brace will help promote lift off oversteer, and kill some of the understeer, so in my opinion is a must do.

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  8. #45
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    Cheers, will keep that in mind when buying, maybe get a normal front strut but soften the dampers a bit and keep the rear stiff and maintain grip?

    Also, will maybe be getting some semi-slicks and some lightweight track wheels to go on when I finally make it to 3 Sisters or wherever, is it vital that I have a baffled sump fabricated? As it is, the cornering is profoundly more brutal than standard, so I am a little concerned about surge when taking corners properly. My mates dad recently managed to blow his type-R up through oil surge, I respect that I won't be cornering like one of those, but the difference from stock in PL is far greater than his was from a stock Civic.

    Tl;dr - Baffled sump or no baffled sump?

    (Pictures of spacers included for reference also, they look almost too nice to use ha )

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  10. #46
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    Can you do before and after piccies for the spacers? Do you buy special longer bolts with spacers? Forgive my ignorance, I've never fitted any but often thought the rears on my C30 could do with them.

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  12. #47
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    @kmb I just fitted the spacers, used 15mm all round and tbh it probably could've gone a bit further on the front without being too far out, have yet to see what handling difference there is though, just got new Michelin Asymmetric 5s to have a do of so gonna go find my favourite moorland b-roads and have a proper do. Rear is absolutely flush to the plastic sill inside the arch, don't know if I'm gonna bother removing it, if I decide to lower more than I already have then I'll probably have to, to avoid rub at least, but as it is, I'm happy with how it's sat.

    Yeah, I did get longer bolts, standard are M14x30, 17mm with 60deg head, just went 15mm bigger to M14x45. Larkspeed wanted £2 per bolt, so got some on eBay instead for about £1.40 each.

    As you can see from the before/after shots, it's sat quite nicely, will post a picture from outside the car at some point soon to show the difference.

    Will be buying some Ultra Racing strut braces for front and rear next week, there's a website that will do both for near enough £200, so after that there's not much more I can be doing except starting to rip stuff out with a bit more enthusiasm.

    Also having calipers painted next few weeks in Focus RS green, which is guaranteed to make people laugh (and me), and will be doing braided hoses/seal refurb while they're off. Might have to get a Lolvo stencil made up to go over where it says "Volvo" on them as well, we'll see if I can be arsed though won't we eh?

    Happy volvo-ing

    PL

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  14. #48
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    Linkage sheathe snapped around the back-front cable of the shifter yesterday while out on a decent drive (had to drive home from 3-4 miles away in 3rd without stopping), so we decided to bodge it properly with a pair of little brackets and some cable ties. Second linkage I've had that's snapped right on one of the plastic sheathes, (was other end last time on top of the trans) think I've found one of the few parts of a Volvo that aren't inherently hard as ££££ing nails. This seems (like the other part of my linkage bodge) to be tougher than the actual part Volvo had put in, so I think it'll last me longer than wrapping it in f*****g gaffer tape.

    Happy with how it's sat now anyway, got a new alloy on the way to complete the set and have a spare, and because we've noticed a little crack on the back of one of the ones being used that needs to be repaired.

    Not looking bad. 60kg of weight out as of today too, weighed generously by the council tip weighbridge

    PL

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  16. #49
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    Think I might be in danger of being a moron; tyres are Goodyear Eagle F1 AS5s. Bit of a mouthful so I think I was understandably confused. They still grip like f*** either way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ProjectLolvo View Post
    Cheers, will keep that in mind when buying, maybe get a normal front strut but soften the dampers a bit and keep the rear stiff and maintain grip?

    Also, will maybe be getting some semi-slicks and some lightweight track wheels to go on when I finally make it to 3 Sisters or wherever, is it vital that I have a baffled sump fabricated? As it is, the cornering is profoundly more brutal than standard, so I am a little concerned about surge when taking corners properly. My mates dad recently managed to blow his type-R up through oil surge, I respect that I won't be cornering like one of those, but the difference from stock in PL is far greater than his was from a stock Civic.

    Tl;dr - Baffled sump or no baffled sump?

    (Pictures of spacers included for reference also, they look almost too nice to use ha )

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    If anything you want to stiffen the dampers, and fit a softer front ARB. Control body roll with the suspension as much as possible, with an ARB as an assister. A stiff ARB will just send the shock from a bump across the axle causing both wheels to be affected.

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  19. #51
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    Cheers for the input mate, just bought myself a front and rear top strut to fit this weekend, and will be changing out the ARBs at some point in the next couple of months when I have a spare £450 or so (that's how much I found them for on Larkspeed - Ultra Racing same as struts)

    Probably will push the boat out and do lower struts as well, but they're twice the price and don't seem (as far as an hours googling is concerned) to make much difference for the money. Everyone I've spoken to has just said do tops for now and then when I sort the ARBs fit the lowers if I have money to buy them. Also sorting some powerflex bushes finally, so need to get those on as soon as they're bought and delivered.

    If I am to be getting an engine swap sorted sometime in spring next year, these purchases won't be letting me down, and if we cba with engines and messing about and end up switching to a T5/2.4T/2.5T, then all of this stuff will just be getting swapped straight over to the new car.

    Meant to say, think I'm heading to track attack at Wigan on 19th of October for a shakedown if anyone's interested? Will most likely be there with the type-R boys, my mate in his silly 500+hp supercharged EP3 might be there, and another in a much more reasonable NA FN2 with some interesting bits under the bonnet. If anyone fancies it let me know, hmu on Instagram @theridingviking.

    Cheers all

    PL

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    Incoming with another hairbrained idea here, found a garage called Shemtech(tek?) that will do a 300+hp tune for the 2.0T with a 16T and 550cc injectors if all is well with the health of the engine. Mine flew through at SGR performance on the dyno, so I have been looking into and reckon me and my pal at Carwurx will be able to handle the swap from 12T to 16T, and fit the injectors same time.

    Has anyone here got any experience of that particular swap? Have read that if I get a newer 16T rather than the 2002 that would go with my engine, the water/oil cooling lines are on the opposite side, but other than that it's just a straight swap. Does anyone know if this is correct? Won't just be swapping the bits and doing nothing else, will be adding a boost gauge to make sure all is well, and then immediately taking the car to be tuned before any driving is done. Have seen some that are outputting north of 300hp about on their Facebook page and on youtube, couldn't believe it myself but have spoken to the guys there and they seem like genuine 5-cyl enthusiasts, so am keen to look into it. I'm aware also bigger intercooler/oil cooler is recommended too, and am scoping out parts for that as we speak. Just keen to get some more hp, handling is belting at with car now sat a shade over 1200kg, I'm ridiculously excited to see how it'll go with 300bhp. Seriously, normal people have sex dreams, I just dream about Volvos going fast with flames shooting out of the exhaust.
    Weird, it's like, I can *feel* that my wallet is afraid.

    Anyhoo, if anyone has any advice then let me know asap, as all being well, this will be my birthday treat to myself and will be done by end of October. Might even cancel the track day if it isn't done fully before then.

    Peace out all

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    Quote Originally Posted by ProjectLolvo View Post
    Incoming with another hairbrained idea here, found a garage called Shemtech(tek?) that will do a 300+hp tune for the 2.0T with a 16T and 550cc injectors if all is well with the health of the engine. Mine flew through at SGR performance on the dyno, so I have been looking into and reckon me and my pal at Carwurx will be able to handle the swap from 12T to 16T, and fit the injectors same time.

    Has anyone here got any experience of that particular swap? Have read that if I get a newer 16T rather than the 2002 that would go with my engine, the water/oil cooling lines are on the opposite side, but other than that it's just a straight swap. Does anyone know if this is correct? Won't just be swapping the bits and doing nothing else, will be adding a boost gauge to make sure all is well, and then immediately taking the car to be tuned before any driving is done. Have seen some that are outputting north of 300hp about on their Facebook page and on youtube, couldn't believe it myself but have spoken to the guys there and they seem like genuine 5-cyl enthusiasts, so am keen to look into it. I'm aware also bigger intercooler/oil cooler is recommended too, and am scoping out parts for that as we speak. Just keen to get some more hp, handling is belting at with car now sat a shade over 1200kg, I'm ridiculously excited to see how it'll go with 300bhp. Seriously, normal people have sex dreams, I just dream about Volvos going fast with flames shooting out of the exhaust.
    Weird, it's like, I can *feel* that my wallet is afraid.

    Anyhoo, if anyone has any advice then let me know asap, as all being well, this will be my birthday treat to myself and will be done by end of October. Might even cancel the track day if it isn't done fully before then.

    Peace out all

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    I asked the guy who tuned my 2.0T about this and indeed this is possible and fairly easy, however the clutch on these 2.0T's are not that great (Volvo went cheap here), they will be ok up to 260-270 hp but anything over that you will have to upgrade that as well or expect to burn through it really quickly.
    But if you are planning on that anyways, then it's easy peasy (or rather, not that hard) ;-).
    The risk of cylinder cracks on the 2.0T's is a lot less then on the 2.5 T's though, because the wall thickness is similar to the T5's (both the 2.3 and 2.4's) and not as small as the 2.5T's. So the engine will be able to cope with these amounts of power.
    However, keep in mind it will never be a T5 you'll always have the characteristics of the smaller engine capacity.


 

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