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  1. #41
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    I cleaned all PCV components. I don't see the point in replace them, I cleaned them following the VIDA procedure. After warming up the engine I couldn't see any smoke coming out from the dipstick, so I think it's OK.

    Then moved onto the next task, replacing the crankshaft seal -I hope is just that and not something related to the oil pump... do them seals fail?
    Anyway, when aligning the marks to remove the timing belt I found some play in the camshaft pulleys, especially in the exhaust one. Is this normal? I recorded a video:


  2. #42
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    Current status: waiting for the car to come back to me completely painted.

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    kmb (Thursday 19th December 2019)

  4. #43
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    That'll be nice, will they take off the door strips for painting?

  5. #44
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    yes, side strips were ok, but bumper strips were looking nasty. My mate is going to spray them

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    kmb (Friday 3rd January 2020),LeeT5 (Saturday 25th January 2020)

  7. #45
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    Found the culprit of my misfires and lack of powah
    Looks like previous owner never changed the plugs:

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  8. #46
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    I got the car from the paint shop right after christmas:

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    Strips detail:

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    Last edited by pepinosport; Friday 24th January 2020 at 19:31.

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    kmb (Sunday 26th January 2020),LeeT5 (Saturday 25th January 2020)

  10. #47
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    Yes, I need to solve the saggy bumper. Wheels will also get sorted once I fit fresh rubber to them.

    Current status: Trying to pull engine from the top

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  11. #48
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    Lovely progress buddy, paint looks high quality from the photos.

  12. #49
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    So I started pulling the ancilliaries and I'll try to pull the engine mated to gearbox & angle gear.

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    One of the gearbox cables broke on removal, the ball joint stayed and was teared from the rubber TBH it looked brittle and tired.
    From the bottom I undid the prop and shafts... the short one was difficult and couldn't pry it out, so I spliced the CV joint.

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    I didn't dare to lift it with my straps, I think I'll go and buy some levelling thing first, like dis:
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  14. #50
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    Im sure it would be a lot quicker to remove the front slam panel to get the engine out

  15. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by CALICO View Post
    Im sure it would be a lot quicker to remove the front slam panel to get the engine out
    How can you do that? I removed all the screws I found and was still solid as . I couldn't remove it!

  16. #52
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    So I managed to pull the engine. It wasn't very difficult, I just had to remove the cooling fan to avoid hitting the ABS with the gearbox. Aircon and PS were left in place.

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    First thing I noticed was the damage on the angle gear :/ I was hoping to see the sleeve stripped but it seems both are damaged

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    Not sure which way to go with the AG now... maybe is better to just buy another one than wasting time refurbing this one.
    I'm also finding impossible to take out the steel coolant tube coming from behind the water pump... any advice??

  17. #53
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    Well done on getting it out!

  18. #54
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    I've been more busy cleaning grime than actually building the car:



    Turbo was sent to the turbo shop. TBH I'm not very confident about the shop telling me it's worthy, as the exhaust housing has several cracks:

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    I'm currently fitting the new clutch and DMF, as the original were... well, the original with 383.000km :

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    I'm also in the middle of refreshing the wiring loom, with new coil connectors from Bosch. These are not the exact fit (couldn't find them), but with a very light cutter trim they fit perfectly :

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    Many new parts arriving, like the much needed front struts:

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    Also bought a TME catback and loads of gaskets, seals, suspension parts, etc from SKANDIX and Volvo... Now the engine starts to look better. Here featuring a fressh 2005+ PCV system:

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    Stuff still on the shopping list:
    - brakes
    - a reasonably priced angle gear... oooor maybe contacting this guy: https://www.blocket.se/annons/dalarn...vaxel/75240664 who claims to repair AGs with reliability by welding a new splined end on the entry shaft.

    Honestly, I'm way over the amount of money I had planned to spend. Every time I take something apart... 500 gone

  19. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by pepinosport View Post
    How can you do that? I removed all the screws I found and was still solid as . I couldn't remove it!
    It's easy! The slam panel is spot welded in 4 places, you can see them from the front of the panel. Just drill out the spot welds (biggest drill bit needed is 8mm) and she falls straight off!
    To refit just use M8 stainless steel bolts and lock nuts.
    It make future engine, Rad pack removal and absolute breeze.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  20. #56
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    Are you going to go the SMF route or are you sticking with the stock DMF?

    I highly recommend going the SMF route and fitting an 07 clutch kit.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  21. #57
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    front cross member/slam panel removal

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    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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  23. #58
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    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  24. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    It's easy! The slam panel is spot welded in 4 places, you can see them from the front of the panel. Just drill out the spot welds (biggest drill bit needed is 8mm) and she falls straight off!
    To refit just use M8 stainless steel bolts and lock nuts.
    It make future engine, Rad pack removal and absolute breeze.
    oh I see! well, now it's done haha thanks!
    DMF and clutch are LUK like genuine equipment. I'm after a restoration with a little more spiciness added, but not too much

  25. #60
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    guy from the turbo shop just called to tell me the turbo is FUBAR and that I might as well buy a new one because repairing this one is going to be more expensive.


 

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