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  1. #101
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    Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?

    Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?

    Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.
    I used, in the following order, Loctite7200 and a scraper, dishwasher cycle and WD40 and a brush.
    WD40 and the brush was the most effective method to remove deposits from unreachable corners on the pan, as it's a very good solvent.

    I used just what I had at home, and I don't recommend the dishwasher because is very salty and will attack the aluminium

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by pepinosport View Post
    I checked compression, since I can't trust this engine nor Shemtek, just to have an idea of what's going on or if it's worth to continue repairing it.

    When I pulled the plugs (new) number 3 had the ceramic a bit toasted and had a special smell. Why?

    Attachment 32691

    Anyway, compression values:

    Attachment 32692
    Attachment 32693
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    Attachment 32696

    According to VIDA, compression values should be between 11-13bar (160-185psi?), these ain't but are definitely a good improvement over my older engine. What values are you used to see?
    The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.

    Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
    You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.

    2004 V70R 6spd manual:: Custom JRtuning REMAP @ peak 21psi :: Custom 2.75" exhaust :: TTV SMF + 07 Clutch :: WG 5.0 psi :: Tints :: IPD R gauge Rev.3 :: CFWerks door pod :: Forge CBV + yellow spring :: Windowed stock housing + blue filter :: Powerflex :: Superpro Engine mount :: Brembo Dot 5.1 :: TW FMIC :: Eibach 5mm spacers :: Brembo 330mm drilled discs :: iMiV 'Classic'+ BT :: D2R XENARC 5500k + LED H7 + LED H3 :: VolvoTech CFE OBD-V1 :: See garage for full mod list

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    Dangerous Dave (Friday 22nd May 2020),pepinosport (Sunday 24th May 2020)

  5. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.

    Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
    You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.
    wow ok, that's important information I didn't know, thank you. I might repeat the test, together with an oil pressure test once I've put everything together.

  6. #105
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    My best effort to clean head and block:

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    It doesn't look like new but I think it has improved a lot.

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    kmb (Sunday 24th May 2020)

  8. #106
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    Good progress!

  9. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.

    Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
    You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.
    but, how can you explain that this compression tool returned VIDA values in a friend's T5? 12-12-10-12-12 Because it ate a spark plug.

  10. #108
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    This week I had the time to finish it, Loctite with a roller and tapped the new seals with the old AG sleeve:

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    and fired it up:



    First start was a little noisy, but already less than before. The video still somehow makes it sound like a bag of spanners but it's so much better. Yesterday was even a tad better, I think it just needs to be driven.

    The main problem now is noise on the VVT pulleys (intake I think). I couldn't tighten the pulleys in their marks, so I did my best effort to it and then finely adjusted with the tree bolts that hold the gear to the hub.

    To be honest, the VIDA procedure is described like , talking about turning left or right instead of clockwise/counterclockwise and I didn't understand. So I did it my way (which seems to not work properly) and turned the hub completely clockwise, tightened the hub and finally adjust the gear to the marks, as tightening the hub always made it impossible to nail the marks.

    I will re-do the timing and see if it improves. The noise is especially worse on warm startup Any ideas how to properly do the VVT timing?

    Covid still delaying stuff, but wheels are almost there after 3 months

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    And the bloody angle gear is still in Sweden and the guy isn't responding to my mails. Busy guy it seems

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  12. #109
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    Dangerous Dave's Avatar
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    Sounds a lot better! The tapping noise is more uniform across the engine by the sound of it.

    Hopefully it is sorted now
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.

  13. #110
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    I'm collecting them tonight

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    kmb (Saturday 6th June 2020)

  15. #111
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    So I finally received my remanufactured angle gear from Maskin&Bil in Sweden.

    First impression is that it isn't very clean and that the output seal for the right driveshaft was missing (it was my old one, still broken)

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    Let's see how long this lasts:

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    Sealing details:

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    On a second glance I see this (what the actual F is it?):

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    I gave it a quick clean and fitted the "new style" breather I bought:

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  16. #112
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    Then applied some mayonnaise, because we all love it:

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    It was at this point I realized that half of the angle gear isn't mine, because the bolt marks are in a different hole (maybe this case was coming from an automatic car):

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    So I basically know that my angle gear input shaft is mine because the driveshaft seal is broken in the same fashion. The output shaft isn't mine because I could not find the marks I did to fit the propeller shaft in the same position. Also this case is much more scraped than mine was. I wonder if all this was worth the 630 I paid in total. Time will tell.

    I also find very difficult to torque the bolts at the specified 75Nm. They feel as if the thread is going to break Anyone had this feel before? Using new bolts, of course.

  17. #113
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    Dangerous Dave's Avatar
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    On my 850 AWD the bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 50Nm. Also my angle gear has that extra bolt hole.

    Checking the Volvo info the P2 AWDs are supposed to be 75Nm like you say.

    That angle gear is a mess, I hope they have cleaned the inside properly as the oil gets really sludgy (check my project thread to see what mine was like before I cleaned it).

    Problem is the bearings are supposed to have shims to properly match the input shaft differences (from what I gather). If they've used a different case then I hope they set it up properly! Looking at the quality of the work I'd be doubting it. That's a lot of money for what looks like just cutting off the old splines and welding new splines onto the input shaft, I'd be expecting it to shine for that price!
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.

  18. #114
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    I wonder if it went through any treatment or hardening process of some sort, sadly I'd not expect it to last very well without something additional to that already described...

  19. #115
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    Yeah, I agree with both of you. We'll see how long it lasts.

    Meawhile I went and bought some paint:

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    Not bad for 11. In the last picture you can see bottom original colour, top sprayed, quite close.

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  21. #116
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    The OEM colour is more brownish I'd say and less glossy, but to me looks good.

  22. #117
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    Hard to see the difference in the photos, nicely done!


 

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