Join Today
Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast
Results 101 to 120 of 121
  1. #101
    New Identity
    Back in an AWD....Oh the grip!
    Dangerous Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    West Midlands
    Posts
    8,921
    Thanks
    2,491
    Thanked 2,582 Times in 2,051 Posts
    Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?

    Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

  2. #102
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?

    Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.
    I used, in the following order, Loctite7200 and a scraper, dishwasher cycle and WD40 and a brush.
    WD40 and the brush was the most effective method to remove deposits from unreachable corners on the pan, as it's a very good solvent.

    I used just what I had at home, and I don't recommend the dishwasher because is very salty and will attack the aluminium

  3. #103
    Senior Member
    ...here we go again...
    LeeT5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Kent
    Posts
    5,337
    Thanks
    1,075
    Thanked 1,393 Times in 1,068 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by pepinosport View Post
    I checked compression, since I can't trust this engine nor Shemtek, just to have an idea of what's going on or if it's worth to continue repairing it.

    When I pulled the plugs (new) number 3 had the ceramic a bit toasted and had a special smell. Why?

    Attachment 32691

    Anyway, compression values:

    Attachment 32692
    Attachment 32693
    Attachment 32694
    Attachment 32695
    Attachment 32696

    According to VIDA, compression values should be between 11-13bar (160-185psi?), these ain't but are definitely a good improvement over my older engine. What values are you used to see?
    The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.

    Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
    You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to LeeT5 For This Useful Post:

    Dangerous Dave (Friday 22nd May 2020),pepinosport (Sunday 24th May 2020)

  5. #104
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.

    Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
    You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.
    wow ok, that's important information I didn't know, thank you. I might repeat the test, together with an oil pressure test once I've put everything together.

  6. #105
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    My best effort to clean head and block:

    Name:  hzijFPL.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  72.5 KB

    Name:  YClmrJq.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  59.4 KB

    It doesn't look like new but I think it has improved a lot.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to pepinosport For This Useful Post:

    kmb (Sunday 24th May 2020)

  8. #106
    Senior Member
    Appreciative
    kmb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Suffolk & Rhone Alpes
    Posts
    1,396
    Thanks
    926
    Thanked 455 Times in 375 Posts
    Good progress!

  9. #107
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.

    Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
    You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.
    but, how can you explain that this compression tool returned VIDA values in a friend's T5? 12-12-10-12-12 Because it ate a spark plug.

  10. #108
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    This week I had the time to finish it, Loctite with a roller and tapped the new seals with the old AG sleeve:

    Name:  cpQqt99.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  79.3 KB

    and fired it up:



    First start was a little noisy, but already less than before. The video still somehow makes it sound like a bag of spanners but it's so much better. Yesterday was even a tad better, I think it just needs to be driven.

    The main problem now is noise on the VVT pulleys (intake I think). I couldn't tighten the pulleys in their marks, so I did my best effort to it and then finely adjusted with the tree bolts that hold the gear to the hub.

    To be honest, the VIDA procedure is described like ££££, talking about turning left or right instead of clockwise/counterclockwise and I didn't understand. So I did it my way (which seems to not work properly) and turned the hub completely clockwise, tightened the hub and finally adjust the gear to the marks, as tightening the hub always made it impossible to nail the marks.

    I will re-do the timing and see if it improves. The noise is especially worse on warm startup Any ideas how to properly do the VVT timing?

    Covid still delaying stuff, but wheels are almost there after 3 months

    Name:  Bkybz4L.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  60.9 KB

    Name:  PNxOjIY.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  46.2 KB

    And the bloody angle gear is still in Sweden and the guy isn't responding to my mails. Busy guy it seems

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to pepinosport For This Useful Post:

    kmb (Monday 1st June 2020)

  12. #109
    New Identity
    Back in an AWD....Oh the grip!
    Dangerous Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    West Midlands
    Posts
    8,921
    Thanks
    2,491
    Thanked 2,582 Times in 2,051 Posts
    Sounds a lot better! The tapping noise is more uniform across the engine by the sound of it.

    Hopefully it is sorted now
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

  13. #110
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    I'm collecting them tonight

    Name:  dilNAIL.png
Views: 0
Size:  735.7 KB

    Name:  ZNEFOcj.png
Views: 0
Size:  731.9 KB

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to pepinosport For This Useful Post:

    kmb (Saturday 6th June 2020)

  15. #111
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    So I finally received my remanufactured angle gear from Maskin&Bil in Sweden.

    First impression is that it isn't very clean and that the output seal for the right driveshaft was missing (it was my old one, still broken)

    Name:  8VznIe7.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  41.5 KB

    Name:  e24MDGX.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  35.4 KB

    Let's see how long this lasts:

    Name:  xtSwcQF.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  40.2 KB

    Sealing details:

    Name:  Z4KnsId.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  40.3 KB

    Name:  2At9MMv.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  37.3 KB

    On a second glance I see this (what the actual F is it?):

    Name:  ybqvldu.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  41.6 KB

    I gave it a quick clean and fitted the "new style" breather I bought:

    Name:  nCOVkKn.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  58.0 KB

  16. #112
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    Then applied some mayonnaise, because we all love it:

    Name:  xRflMhc.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  40.9 KB

    Name:  7XVxDcp.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  48.2 KB

    It was at this point I realized that half of the angle gear isn't mine, because the bolt marks are in a different hole (maybe this case was coming from an automatic car):

    Name:  beuyDet.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  34.2 KB

    So I basically know that my angle gear input shaft is mine because the driveshaft seal is broken in the same fashion. The output shaft isn't mine because I could not find the marks I did to fit the propeller shaft in the same position. Also this case is much more scraped than mine was. I wonder if all this was worth the 630€ I paid in total. Time will tell.

    I also find very difficult to torque the bolts at the specified 75Nm. They feel as if the thread is going to break Anyone had this feel before? Using new bolts, of course.

  17. #113
    New Identity
    Back in an AWD....Oh the grip!
    Dangerous Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    West Midlands
    Posts
    8,921
    Thanks
    2,491
    Thanked 2,582 Times in 2,051 Posts
    On my 850 AWD the bolts are only supposed to be torqued to 50Nm. Also my angle gear has that extra bolt hole.

    Checking the Volvo info the P2 AWDs are supposed to be 75Nm like you say.

    That angle gear is a mess, I hope they have cleaned the inside properly as the oil gets really sludgy (check my project thread to see what mine was like before I cleaned it).

    Problem is the bearings are supposed to have shims to properly match the input shaft differences (from what I gather). If they've used a different case then I hope they set it up properly! Looking at the quality of the work I'd be doubting it. That's a lot of money for what looks like just cutting off the old splines and welding new splines onto the input shaft, I'd be expecting it to shine for that price!
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

  18. #114
    Senior Member
    Appreciative
    kmb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Suffolk & Rhone Alpes
    Posts
    1,396
    Thanks
    926
    Thanked 455 Times in 375 Posts
    I wonder if it went through any treatment or hardening process of some sort, sadly I'd not expect it to last very well without something additional to that already described...

  19. #115
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    Yeah, I agree with both of you. We'll see how long it lasts.

    Meawhile I went and bought some paint:

    Name:  pMUsMgz.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  20.6 KB

    Name:  mlUjYiM.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  57.8 KB

    Name:  PCGPTPh.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  31.7 KB

    Name:  AI95pVS.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  50.8 KB

    Not bad for 11€. In the last picture you can see bottom original colour, top sprayed, quite close.

  20. The Following User Says Thank You to pepinosport For This Useful Post:

    kmb (Monday 6th July 2020)

  21. #116
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    The OEM colour is more brownish I'd say and less glossy, but to me looks good.

  22. #117
    Senior Member
    Appreciative
    kmb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Suffolk & Rhone Alpes
    Posts
    1,396
    Thanks
    926
    Thanked 455 Times in 375 Posts
    Hard to see the difference in the photos, nicely done!

  23. #118
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    In July I fought the damn couriers, because the original radiator was leaking (wow, unexpected from a P2) and EVERY SINGLE radiator arriving home was either bent or broken. Three radiators arrived home, none of them good.
    Anyway, I finally gave up and went round the corner to my local scrapyard (always my last option because in this side of the country prices are ridiculous) and got myself an amazing S80 radiator without the auto box lines

    It was a PITA to change because of the weight of the DO88 IC (is it made of steel????)

    Name:  p1aXzBi.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  86.0 KB

    After this, I fitted new genuine front ARB links and the short shaft, the one with the RZEPPA joint: it wasn't difficult in the end, I kept the shaft at an angle and put the balls while turning the whole assembly. Some 98 petrol, quick wash and was ready to go out for a spin:

    Name:  3wCWcyM.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  89.3 KB

    Name:  4DGQDmw.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  93.1 KB

  24. The Following User Says Thank You to pepinosport For This Useful Post:

    kmb (Sunday 30th August 2020)

  25. #119
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    As a curiosity, a good friend of mine, who bought his p2 almost at the same time last year, has also just finished it:

    Name:  sUBwCY4.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  67.5 KB

    He's tried to do a replica of the S60 challenge and I've to say I love it. It was a Maya Yellow T5 with beige/sand interior, completely sunburnt inside and outside. Now it's a Passion Red with black leather/textile interior + Nebulas on Eibach springs. And backbox delete, because

    Not too shabby!
    Clutch lasted for one week after he finished it
    Last edited by pepinosport; Sunday 30th August 2020 at 18:46.

  26. #120
    Member
    old Volvos never die
    pepinosport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    89
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
    The project slowly goes forward, after my recent paternity I didn't find much time and sometimes family visiting would last up to one month...

    During the first day, the car had a blowing TME exhaust and was overboosting. I hadn't use any exhaust assembly paste, thinking the TME stuff would seal perfectly. It is sorted now.

    The overboosting problem I think it comes from the wastegate actuator. After my turbo rebuild, the shop left the compressor housing with the wrong angle and I had to rotate, changing the effective displacement of the wastegate rod. So I removed some tension (one full turn) and it didn't overboost, then added half a turn and still goes OK, but feels slow when compared with the T5. I'll look at it more carefully.

    Then there was the "too high fuel pressure", that I wasn't able to solve with the new FPS or PEM. Will carefully check everything with a multimeter.

    And finally, there was some problems with the lights: I've an intermitent bi-xenon solenoid failure on the left headlight and a permanent failure with the beam height adjustment. I'm also looking into that.

    Once everything is sorted it will be MOT (ITV here) time.

    I'm also looking into some TME springs, as I don't like the ride height ATM


 

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 3 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 3 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
This website uses cookies
We use cookies to store session information to facilitate remembering your login information, to allow you to save website preferences, to personalise content and ads, to provide social media features and to analyse our traffic. We also share information about your use of our site with our social media, advertising and analytics partners.
     
ipv6 ready