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  1. #101
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    Dangerous Dave's Avatar
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    Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?

    Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    Very shiny and clean! What did you use/process to clean them?

    Yes pattern parts can be somewhat different to the genuine parts. You get what you pay for in the end unfortunately.
    I used, in the following order, Loctite7200 and a scraper, dishwasher cycle and WD40 and a brush.
    WD40 and the brush was the most effective method to remove deposits from unreachable corners on the pan, as it's a very good solvent.

    I used just what I had at home, and I don't recommend the dishwasher because is very salty and will attack the aluminium

  3. #103
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    LeeT5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pepinosport View Post
    I checked compression, since I can't trust this engine nor Shemtek, just to have an idea of what's going on or if it's worth to continue repairing it.

    When I pulled the plugs (new) number 3 had the ceramic a bit toasted and had a special smell. Why?

    Attachment 32691

    Anyway, compression values:

    Attachment 32692
    Attachment 32693
    Attachment 32694
    Attachment 32695
    Attachment 32696

    According to VIDA, compression values should be between 11-13bar (160-185psi?), these ain't but are definitely a good improvement over my older engine. What values are you used to see?
    The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.

    Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
    You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.

    2004 V70R 6spd manual:: Custom JRtuning REMAP @ peak 21psi :: Custom 2.75" exhaust :: TTV SMF + 07 Clutch :: WG 5.0 psi :: Tints :: IPD R gauge Rev.3 :: CFWerks door pod :: Forge CBV + yellow spring :: Windowed stock housing + blue filter :: Powerflex :: Superpro Engine mount :: Brembo Dot 5.1 :: TW FMIC :: Eibach 5mm spacers :: Brembo 330mm drilled discs :: iMiV 'Classic'+ BT :: D2R XENARC 5500k + LED H7 + LED H3 :: VolvoTech CFE OBD-V1 :: See garage for full mod list

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    Dangerous Dave (Friday 22nd May 2020),pepinosport (Sunday 24th May 2020)

  5. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.

    Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
    You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.
    wow ok, that's important information I didn't know, thank you. I might repeat the test, together with an oil pressure test once I've put everything together.

  6. #105
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    My best effort to clean head and block:

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    It doesn't look like new but I think it has improved a lot.

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    kmb (Sunday 24th May 2020)

  8. #106
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    Good progress!

  9. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    The values in VIDA are for a 'WET' test. Clearly you did it 'DRY', whether or the not the engine was warm, makes no difference.

    Try the compression test again but this time, using a long reach oil can with a pressure trigger, squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder as far into the spark plug void as you can. This will make a wet seal around the compression rings and then do a compression test.
    You see the values rise considerably on the gauge and will likely be withing Volvo spec, unless you've got a serious problem and a broken ring.
    but, how can you explain that this compression tool returned VIDA values in a friend's T5? 12-12-10-12-12 Because it ate a spark plug.

  10. #108
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    This week I had the time to finish it, Loctite with a roller and tapped the new seals with the old AG sleeve:

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    and fired it up:



    First start was a little noisy, but already less than before. The video still somehow makes it sound like a bag of spanners but it's so much better. Yesterday was even a tad better, I think it just needs to be driven.

    The main problem now is noise on the VVT pulleys (intake I think). I couldn't tighten the pulleys in their marks, so I did my best effort to it and then finely adjusted with the tree bolts that hold the gear to the hub.

    To be honest, the VIDA procedure is described like , talking about turning left or right instead of clockwise/counterclockwise and I didn't understand. So I did it my way (which seems to not work properly) and turned the hub completely clockwise, tightened the hub and finally adjust the gear to the marks, as tightening the hub always made it impossible to nail the marks.

    I will re-do the timing and see if it improves. The noise is especially worse on warm startup Any ideas how to properly do the VVT timing?

    Covid still delaying stuff, but wheels are almost there after 3 months

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    And the bloody angle gear is still in Sweden and the guy isn't responding to my mails. Busy guy it seems

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    kmb (Monday 1st June 2020)

  12. #109
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    Dangerous Dave's Avatar
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    Sounds a lot better! The tapping noise is more uniform across the engine by the sound of it.

    Hopefully it is sorted now
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.

  13. #110
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    I'm collecting them tonight

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