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  1. #81
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    Flushed everything and removed oil filter, and here you can see a very nice shiny metallic puddle

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    I thought the first start noises would go away after a while running -engine has been sat for more than a year- but a follower from the gearbox side keeps ticking. Note how the pitch changes when I go towards the brake fluid reservoir



    Not that I'd expect the engine to be very smooth after the amount of debris I found...

    Tomorrow I'll check compression and the bearings and decide what to do. This isn't definitely what I was looking for: an engine rebuild. If I had wanted to do so I'd have reman the original so much dissappointment with this purchased engine.

  2. #82
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    I don't have experience with Volvo engines, so I'd appreciate any input
    thanks for reading

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    Quote Originally Posted by pepinosport View Post
    I don't have experience with Volvo engines, so I'd appreciate any input
    thanks for reading
    Ditch the 5w30 oil, it won't do your engine any good long term.
    If your engine is high mileage, you'll get blue smoke on overrun with 5w30 and also under high boost/high load conditions.

    You'll be better off using a 10w50 full synthetic Ester based oil. Tremendously great results!
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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  5. #84
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    my old engine was on 0w30 with more than 238k miles... and wasn't using oil, was just low on compression.
    this engine I bought is supposed to have 119k miles, but seems to have had a rough life

  6. #85
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    It sounds like a stuck/dry hydraulic lifter, I had one on my other 850 when I changed the head gasket. A quick spirited drive solved the issue (though I wasn't too fussed about that engine).

    Also after I rebuilt my 850s engine all the lifters were cleaned out so it was really noisy on it's first start
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

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  8. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    It sounds like a stuck/dry hydraulic lifter, I had one on my other 850 when I changed the head gasket. A quick spirited drive solved the issue (though I wasn't too fussed about that engine).

    Also after I rebuilt my 850s engine all the lifters were cleaned out so it was really noisy on it's first start
    that's what I thought too, but the metallic debris on the oil filter isn't good sign anyway

  9. #87
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    Yeah that debris is a bit of a worry.
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

  10. #88
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    I checked compression, since I can't trust this engine nor Shemtek, just to have an idea of what's going on or if it's worth to continue repairing it.

    When I pulled the plugs (new) number 3 had the ceramic a bit toasted and had a special smell. Why?

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    Anyway, compression values:

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    According to VIDA, compression values should be between 11-13bar (160-185psi?), these ain't but are definitely a good improvement over my older engine. What values are you used to see?

  11. #89
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    The metallic debris on the oil filter housing was a concern, so I pulled the pan

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    It wasn't very dirty to be honest. Again the oil showed some very thin metallic debris in suspension

    Found a torn seal, unsure about the impact of this in the noisy tapping head

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    The idea was to check the rod bearings, but I don't seem to have the correct socket to undo those bolts. If anyone knows the size let me know.

    VIDA procedure for contaminated oil engines is to check rod number 2, I guess that's the one that fails first. I'll do the same, if the shells look good then the problem and origin of the debris must be on the top of the head.

    What do you reckon?

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    Did you test the compression with the engine warm?

    The rod bolts will probably need a 12 point 10mm socket.

    That broken seal looks like it is the pressure feed to the top of the engine (outlet from the oil filter). Maybe there was a leak from it and the head/engine was not getting the full oil pressure?
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

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  14. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    Did you test the compression with the engine warm?

    The rod bolts will probably need a 12 point 10mm socket.

    That broken seal looks like it is the pressure feed to the top of the engine (outlet from the oil filter). Maybe there was a leak from it and the head/engine was not getting the full oil pressure?
    If the engine had oil starvation on the top there may be something damaged up there.

    Because the bearings are just fine

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  15. #92
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    Sorry to see the metal in the oil filter housing, although good news on the bearings, spark plugs look OK and healthy to me, could it be something simple like they were not all the same age?

    Good luck with sorting it all out.

  16. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    Did you test the compression with the engine warm?

    The rod bolts will probably need a 12 point 10mm socket.

    That broken seal looks like it is the pressure feed to the top of the engine (outlet from the oil filter). Maybe there was a leak from it and the head/engine was not getting the full oil pressure?
    sorry I forgot to answer: yes, it was warm. TDC sensor and cam position sensors unplugged, WOT.

  17. #94
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    I'm currently waiting for the cam locking tool to open the top of the engine

  18. #95
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    Yesterday I got the timing tools to remove the cam pulleys, so I opened the top.

    After removing the pulleys I found the oil seals to be seated incorrectly, which says a lot of how this head was put together after shimming:

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    The cover revealed lots of burned oil deposits on the 5th cyl area, just where the tapping noise was coming from:

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    Oil passages towards the last journal were clogged or almost clogged on both cams:

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    Here the oil feed to the last exhaust camshaft journal is completely blocked:

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    I was expecting to find more damage, I honestly don't know, and don't have the tools to assess if this wear is OK or not:

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    I might just put everythng together and send it until something goes pop. I have the feeling that the new o-rings on the pan and clean oil passages at the top of the head should improve things a lot. Pity, because the rest of the engine looked quite good.
    Last edited by pepinosport; Thursday 7th May 2020 at 20:46.

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  20. #96
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    Oh dear, two tone rocker cover

    I'm guessing the engine was run after shimming?

    With all the oil galleries cleared and oil getting through properly it may prevent further wear.

    If it were me I'd fetch the head off and clean it thoroughly and change the stem seals. Though that would cost more and is it worth it for a possibly beyond repair cylinder head.
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

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  22. #97
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    Good progress as you work through the engine.

    Just out interest, how was the engine sold to you and under what description? I know there is always a risk, but it's a huge pity when it's an engine swap that should have resolved your issues, not given new ones.

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  24. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    Oh dear, two tone rocker cover

    I'm guessing the engine was run after shimming?

    With all the oil galleries cleared and oil getting through properly it may prevent further wear.

    If it were me I'd fetch the head off and clean it thoroughly and change the stem seals. Though that would cost more and is it worth it for a possibly beyond repair cylinder head.
    Yes, it was shimmed and tuned by the seller. This engine was in a client's car that according to my informations was broken 2 years later.

  25. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmb View Post
    it's a huge pity when it's an engine swap that should have resolved your issues, not given new ones
    This is the perfect summary of what I think.

    Engine was listed on eBay around one year ago. I saw the seller was renowned and well known in the Volvo world so I went for it. He even sent me the service records but now I have doubts about the booklet coming from the very car this engine belonged to. I wanted something unmolested, but this one, shimmed and with the head done not long ago seemed like a good option. 119k miles.

    We're currently in contact via Whatsapp and so far there's good communication
    Last edited by pepinosport; Thursday 7th May 2020 at 21:08. Reason: forgot to add mileage

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  27. #100
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    I'm currently busy at home with the family but I've found some spare time to do a couple of things, mainly make everything shiny again:

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    I'm really surprised about the amount of carbon deposits on these engines. I'm used to work in Renault hot hatches and I'd never seen oil contamination build up this way before

    I'll wipe the block the best I can and we'll see.

    I also ordered the gaskets and camshaft seals @polar-parts but the rings were not grooved, looked like plain silicone and the o-rings for the oil pan had uneven shape and rough edges. Very bad quality parts

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    So I wrote an email to them explaining this and that I wanted to return the items because they certainly don't meet the OEM quality. They replied very quickly and made a refund without the need for returning the goods, so I'm very happy with their customer service.

    Then I ordered the genuine parts at my local dealer. I took some extra because I'm already stocking parts for the rebuild of the old (original) engine.

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