Bushes arrived...
Rear fitted...
Fronts...
Fronts pressed in...tried different techniques
Had to sand the insides a fraction...
Bush pressing kit worked best...
Popped the centre bar back in as it had to be removed to push bush in...
Done...
Bushes arrived...
Rear fitted...
Fronts...
Fronts pressed in...tried different techniques
Had to sand the insides a fraction...
Bush pressing kit worked best...
Popped the centre bar back in as it had to be removed to push bush in...
Done...
Today I’m ready to fit, the old bushes were beginning to tear...
Jack up transmission and undo bolts...
Use a large ratchet strap to pull arms down to help release ball joint...
Old Vs New...
Fitted one side...
Both sides done...
Went for a test drive and they feel great! Next job is the trailing arms....
kmb (Thursday 6th February 2020)
Watched a video on this which over complicates the job. When fitting powerflex bushes it’s really easy. It took me 24 mins to do each side including removal and refitting the wheel, only 3 bolts had to be removed apart from the 5 wheel bolts...
Trailing arm on the XC70. These are pressed steel, but on the R they are cast iron...
2 bolts to remove...
A demo saw is VERY handy to remove the old bushing. First remove the 10mm brake line bracket bolt. You have to bend the blade to cut the bushing out straight without nicking the subframe. Go slow and you will be rewarded. Make 2 cuts...
Here you can see the 2 cuts, upper and lower...
Use grips to pull out the cut...
Knock bushing out from behind. This is easy now...
Out...
Grease up the powerflex bushes, these are really easy as they come in 2 halves...
The back one took a little force to push in, the front drops in flush...
Refit the 10mm bracket bolt, the 15mm front trailing arm bolt, then jack up the hub until the holes line up and refit the remaining 15mm bolt. Pinch tight when under compression with the jack...
Refit wheel and do the same on the other side. A surprisingly easy job, and it makes a difference to handling too.
Next I will get a 4 wheel laser alignment.
Front LCA bushes were £176.
Trailing arm bushes were £50.
If anyone is considering this and wants a pair of genuine volvo LCAs so they can do all the work without taking their car apart then PM me.
kmb (Thursday 6th February 2020)
Good info and pics, thanks for sharing!
uqj83l (Thursday 6th February 2020)
Finally picked up a set of SPORT instrument cluster dials and swapped them into the XC70
Current dials
New dials
Undo screws on rears
Remove circuit boards and swap over
Re-fit the needles. Hint- use masking tape to Mark their position before any dismantling
Polish the scratches out of the screen
All changed over and put back together
Here is where the front LED lighting cables need to be soldered to so that the lights dim with the dimmer switch
Here they are in the car during daytime
Here they are illuminated at night
Great work Bill!
I take it your Ocean Race does have a light sensor on the dash and therefore, when you enter a tunnel from broad daylight, the LED ring around the dials, automatically light up, as they do in the R?
At night, I can also control the brightness of the 4 LED + LED ring via the dimmer scroll wheel. Is the Ocean Race operation the same?
(Only highlighting this for clarification for forum members, incase they have a V70/S60 (not an R model) and want to do the same mod.)
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
Thanks Lee.
I’d have to switch the DRLs off to know whether the dials illuminate in the conditions you describe?
Or I’ll keep my eyes peeled the next time I drive through the Dartford tunnel. Not 100% sure TBH.
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
Finally got round to buying some new boots for the R. I had a horrible vibration at high speed, I checked my whole drivetrain and found nothing so it could only have been the wheels (which have been balanced) or the tyres which are old and tired. I went to the only place in my region which offered RoadForce wheel balancing coupled with 4 new Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres.
The roadforce balance job sheet
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
Hi Lee.
Elite have closed down and gone into liquidation I’m afraid. It was at the Tyre Shop in North London. It’s £24 per wheel for road force balancing, so not worth the cost on tyres which are close to the legal limit. The total cost was just shy of £600, but I had no choice as this was the only company that has the Hunter RoadForce balancing machine. I would recommend them, they are meticulous and know how to treat custom or cherished cars.
LeeT5 (Monday 12th October 2020)
3 weeks ago I inherited a crunch as second gear engages on my R. The M66 (C) is 17 years old now and I suspected a worn synchroniser ring. So I pulled the transmission out, picked up a doner M66 (E) from a contact and dropped them off at Hardy Engineering in a Surrey to transplant and make good my box. Here’s a few pics of the process and parts....
Gearbox out
Motor left hanging
Collection day (the doner box came back in bits)
My worn 2nd gear synchro
What it’s meant to look like...
I used this opportunity to detail my gearbox, engine block, angle gear, brackets, and front subframe as they were mucky and oily after years of use
I also fitted the collar sleeve with Loctite 660 quick metal and strapped it until cured. This took away a small amount of play inbetween the collar and transmission splines.
Then came the refit....
Engine supported
Subframe degreased and resprayed
Engine block cleaned and sprayed
Gearbox refitted
Steering rack degreased and painted
In!
Underside now....
Recharged battery and refitted all the upper bits
Filled the new box with redline MTL, and I also picked up new shifter cables from the dealer and the shifter bracket which goes on the gearbox.
Drives and shifts like new again. A big job, but it was worth it as I got a lot of bits done that were long overdue.
LeeT5 (Sunday 31st May 2020)
As always, great work Bill.
I like the idea of the Loctite 660 on the splines.
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
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