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Thread: D5 misfire?

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    D5 misfire?

    Hi

    well now I have most of the fault codes cleared and sorted I thought all would be well but now I have a misfire between 1500 and 2500 RPM? NOTHING whatsoever on VIDA to do with engine faults so Im at a loss?

    I even have the cruise logo back when I press the steering wheel button!! But as I have a SAS fault I dont think it will engage?

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    Last edited by Tee5alive; Friday 15th June 2018 at 21:07.
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    2004 - V70 D5 -'Black Bess' - The new addition
    2002 - C70 T5 'Ragetty Anne' - awaiting rebuild long term storage

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    when was the fuel filter last changed, also look at the MAF sensor, give it a clean with some IPA, do not use brake cleaner,
    Dave
    Last edited by davebb; Saturday 16th June 2018 at 13:45.

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    Oh nice one Thanks Dave I have no idea when the filter was changed I'll get that done.
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    2004 - V70 D5 -'Black Bess' - The new addition
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    Hi Dave I have got hold of IPA now, can you tell me why brake cleaner wont do the same job please, for my future info

    cheers
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    2004 - V70 D5 -'Black Bess' - The new addition
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tee5alive View Post
    Hi Dave I have got hold of IPA now, can you tell me why brake cleaner wont do the same job please, for my future info

    cheers
    Assuming Dave intends to use as a panel wipe?

    The main reasons for this is IPA is made up of two ingredients, Alchohol and Propan. Unlike Brake cleaner, which contains many harmful ingredients including;

    Chlorinated Brake Cleaner. Chlorinated brake cleaner is nonflammable; however, it is harsh on your skin and is known to be a possible carcinogen. ...
    Tetrachloroethylene. ...
    Carbon Dioxide. ...
    Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner. ...
    Heptane. ...
    Acetone. ...
    Carbon Dioxide

    Brake cleaner may possibly damage clear coat, so why risk it?

    IPA from pharmacies is typically mixed with water, about 60-70% IPA. However, if you want pure IPA, then you gotta buy it from an Industrial source, then your talking 99% pure.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tee5alive View Post
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    Air quality sensor's are a common failure and often people don't bother to replace them due to their cost. However, if you have Automatic Climate control, the automatic recirculate function won't work! Meaning, your interal vent will remain 'open' when your stuck behind that dirty diesel chucking out harmful pollutants (unless of course, you manually close it). Your handbook gives a good description of it's function. I think it's about £140 to replace and lives above the blower fan in the scuttle.

    DDM-004C - has an internal fault, short circuit, corrosion on pcb, water damage on wiring....something like that and is the reason why you also have fault codes; **DDM-0025 and PDM-0007 (Neither of which will clear until you fix the Drivers door module fault).

    REM-4F44 - means what it says. Replace the parking sensor (No3) and voilą! (It could also be some corrosion on the sensor connector harness behind the rear bumper cover

    UEM-0004 - This is common too in ALL P2 platforms. Basically you need to do this....

    http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthre...red&highlight=

    My good friend Bill (the guy you bought the battery from) had the same issue and did a much cheaper fix. Time will tell if it lasts, but from my understanding it's all good so far. It does involve some open heart surgery on the module itself, so if your not good with soldering or have access to a dremel then you might wanna buy it from Volvo.
    Give him a PM!

    SAS-0007 - This could be something or nothing. Firstly, check ALL fuses everywhere. Clear the faults then see what comes back first...SAS-0007 or SAS-000E? Does the fault come back before you actually drive the car? If so, it could be the SAS gone bad.

    Do you know if the steering wheel has been removed? If so, it could have something to do with it.
    If the fault only comes back after you've actually turned the steering wheel, then it points to a faulty SAS and not the module.

    Regards the Misfire, I've PM'd you about this.

    **DDM = Drivers Door Modle
    PDM = Passenger Door Module


    Clearly both faults are unlikely to exist on both mirrors as that would be not only super unlucky but highly unlikely! Therefore, a classic red herring.

    Hope this helps?
    Last edited by LeeT5; Thursday 21st June 2018 at 09:47.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Many thanks mate - yes after clearring faults and going through the restart sequence on VIDA the SAS is there straight away so a duff sensor?

    The alarm cure I have heard of as a mate at work has a Volvo and done the battery replacement its not an issue for driving so its low priority compared to the other faults.
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    2004 - V70 D5 -'Black Bess' - The new addition
    2002 - C70 T5 'Ragetty Anne' - awaiting rebuild long term storage

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    Assuming Dave intends to use as a panel wipe?

    No, this is to clean the maf, as I does not leave any residue, an like you say lee it does not damage anything, and yes use 99.9%
    Thanks Dave

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    Still got the misfire after cleaning the MAF. Changed all the filters today the fule filter was BLACK!

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    The misfire I think has lessened but still there. I have Wynns Gold Label in the tank and a full tank of Shell Plus diesel so need to go for a good long motorway drive to see if it can shift and crap outa the injectors?
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    2004 - V70 D5 -'Black Bess' - The new addition
    2002 - C70 T5 'Ragetty Anne' - awaiting rebuild long term storage

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    It may scratch the surface but I doubt you’ll notice any difference.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Im beginning to suspect 1 or more injectors and at £360 a pop thats more than the car is worth so it may soon be the gas axe for it - losing my patience with this heap. PETROL manual everytime for me in future! I thought I would try a D5 as they were renowned for being 'reliable' umm REALLY??? Ive yet to see it. I guess I got ripped off by a less than truthful seller!

    Shame I cant gut it to service the T5 but its a facelift so not much fits. The first time in over 20 years, I have had a Volvo let me down TWICE!
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    Hi you could try doing a liqui moly diesel purge, use 1L, you run the car on it, look on youtube,
    a lot of people have had very good results with it
    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by davebb View Post
    Hi you could try doing a liqui moly diesel purge, use 1L, you run the car on it, look on youtube,
    a lot of people have had very good results with it
    Dave
    ooh sounds good I'll give it a go
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    Hi you just need some pipe and a cheap in-line filter and some new clips as the Volvo ones are crimped on, use 1L , it will take about 40-50 mins to run thru your engine, you run the car on tick over increasing up to 2000rpm some times,
    there is a good video on youtube , simon, sirobb is doing it on his 2002 s60 D5,
    Dave

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    unplug all the injectors and look at the plugs to see if they are all clean and the terminals are all good and tight and no wire damage,
    Dave

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    Lee heres is an update of the VIDA faults, I cant post pics on PM message!

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    What worries me is this

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    Am I right in thinking, if I keep the engine running the HP pump runs directly off the engine so fuel is SUCKED into the injectors, but if i stop the engine if the LP pump isnt working or faulty it wont restart? Thats whats happening. If I leave it overnight it starts as normal but the misfire is there, havent had a chance to do a Liqui Moly flush yes as Dave BB suggests.

    A guy at work with Volvos also said to remove the EGR and check that? Getting annoyed with this car as its holding me up fixing my 2 T5's it is SUPPOSED to be my runabout - hahaha it cant even CRAWL let alone run!
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    2004 - V70 D5 -'Black Bess' - The new addition
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    Fuel is not sucked into the injectors, the fuel pressure should be minimum 280Bar in the rail to start. Once started, the fuel pressure is kept at a regulated pressure by the FP regulator. A fuel pressure sensor, determines if enough pressure is present in the rail to enable the car to run.
    The injectors simply open/close when switched by the ECM.
    Looking at those fault codes and your symptoms I’d say you have either a faulty regulator or more commonly, the FPS is faulty.
    Sticking/faulty EGR valve would cause it to not restart, especially when cold rather than hot.
    However, once running they never normally cause an engine to just cut out and certainly don’t cause a misfire.
    If the LP pump (or electric pump in the tank) is not running, then the car would never start in the first place.
    I will also say this; on rare occasions it has been known for sludge to build up in the tank. This is sucked into the filter and will cause a low fuel pressure fault code. It will cause the car to cut out eventually and lack of power/performance.
    Last edited by LeeT5; Sunday 1st July 2018 at 13:45.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Checking for Sludge build up

    Assuming you’ve recently changed the fuel filter, the only quick easy way to check for sludge contamination is to remove the fuel filter, making a note of the tank side of the filter. Then carefully cut open the filter and inspect for large build up of sludge in the filter. If this is evident on a new filter, then the only course of action is to remove the fuel tank and wash it out.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    cheers mate I changed the filter last week so I'll need a look. Howeever after watching Sirobbs video on the Liqui Moly injector clean thats impressive, the crud it blew out of the injectors!

    I have Wynns Gold label in the tank but too diluted to do anything and I would have to run the tank dry (600 odd miles) and the damn thing wont even rin for more than 30 miles without the 'wimp mode' cutting in. I think my best bet is to shoot a dead horse and sell it fast! Im throwing ££££'s at this bucket! No way will I EVER buy another diesel auto ANYTHING

    BL**DY THING
    Last edited by Tee5alive; Sunday 1st July 2018 at 14:07.
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    Hi I would say it could be the LP pump not working as it should, you can get a pressure gauge kit cheap, or a leaking injector,
    Dave

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