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  1. #1
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    Narcoleptic dash - 52 S60

    Hi guys
    For the last week my dash has decided it will randomly switch off. Everything dies- dash lights, odo, trip, needles drop to 0, everything.

    It does not seem to be related to bumps in the road (often though, a good smack on the top will bring it back - but not always).
    This morning, for the first time, it was dead when I started the car but then when sat at lights some 30 miles and 1 motorway later it just popped back into life.

    I am assuming there will most likely be some loose connection somewhere. Arwe there any 'usual suspects'.
    Any tips on getting the dials out without bloodloss?

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    If the battery is in tip-top shape, then it's either a dash fault (plenty of similar threads all over the interweb) or another part on the network taking down you can bus communication. The second issue mentioned most likely will result the car to go to limp mode too.
    Get the error codes read with VIDA/DICE and see it from there.
    If it's the dash, then contact to VolvoDiagnostic

    http://volvodiagnostic.com/shop/inde...duct&id_lang=1


    2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    If you don't have access to VIDA then certainly no hrm in removing the cluster for a quick check of the connections at the back. It's surprisingly easy, only takes a few minutes, a few screws to undo and can be withdrawn without removing the wheel. Do a search and you'll find a guide or a video on Youtube, I know I did easily enough (I can't actually remember the specifics of what to do though, which is a bit embarrassing as it was only about a month or so ago that I did it!).
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
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    The issue with D.I.M units (dash/instrument cluster) is actual dry joints on the P.C.B.
    I'm sure there are some threads on Swedespeed where people have managed to re-solder them.
    Basically that is all the likes of B.B.A reman e.t.c will do.

    But as stated above it would be advisable to have the codes read.

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    It certainly feels like a dry solder issue. I was just wondering if it were one thing that always fails. I doubt very much its a bus issue as everything else runs fine.

    I seem to remember my old V70 dash being a massive pain to remove so good news this is easier

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    Quote Originally Posted by Baj View Post
    It certainly feels like a dry solder issue. I was just wondering if it were one thing that always fails. I doubt very much its a bus issue as everything else runs fine.

    I seem to remember my old V70 dash being a massive pain to remove so good news this is easier
    Before you condem the DIM, like Gold n brown says, it's worth removing the DIM and checking the connections are not dry in the plugs. Use a contact cleaner and refit.
    You've got nothing to lose and it may well fix your issue.

    2004 V70R 6spd manual:: Custom JRtuning REMAP @ peak 21psi :: Custom 2.75" exhaust :: New KKK24 :: WG 5.5 psi :: Tints :: IPD R gauge Rev.3 :: CFWerks door pod :: Forge CBV yellow spring @18psi :: Windowed stock housing + blue filter :: Powerflex :: Superpro Engine mount :: ATE super blue :: TW FMIC :: Eibach 5mm spacers :: Brembo 330mm drilled discs :: iMiV 'Classic'+ BT :: D2R XENARC 5500k + LED H7 + LED H3 :: Atacama :: VolvoTech CFE OBD-V1 :: See garage for full mod list

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    Oh yeah, that is exactly the plan

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    DIM came out easily enough but the tutorials online all talk of reflowing with hot air guns and stuff which I cant to.
    I saw nothing obvious on the back but I cannot get to the front side.
    I guess I'll have to get a replacement

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    Replacement will cost in the region of 800.
    If you know anybody who's handy with a soldering iron, it's the Motorola chip on the pcv that'll need reflowing.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    Replacement will cost in the region of 800.
    If you know anybody who's handy with a soldering iron, it's the Motorola chip on the pcv that'll need reflowing.
    Exactly what Martin says. You don't use a hot air gun, you need a soldering iron with a fine tip and a steady hand!

    You could send it to BBA reman (google). Turn around is 3 days and costs around 220 inc lifetime warranty.

    2004 V70R 6spd manual:: Custom JRtuning REMAP @ peak 21psi :: Custom 2.75" exhaust :: New KKK24 :: WG 5.5 psi :: Tints :: IPD R gauge Rev.3 :: CFWerks door pod :: Forge CBV yellow spring @18psi :: Windowed stock housing + blue filter :: Powerflex :: Superpro Engine mount :: ATE super blue :: TW FMIC :: Eibach 5mm spacers :: Brembo 330mm drilled discs :: iMiV 'Classic'+ BT :: D2R XENARC 5500k + LED H7 + LED H3 :: Atacama :: VolvoTech CFE OBD-V1 :: See garage for full mod list

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    As I mentioned couple of posts above
    65.00 for the same.

    http://volvodiagnostic.com/shop/inde...duct&id_lang=1


    2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Quote Originally Posted by htomi View Post
    As I mentioned couple of posts above
    65.00 for the same.

    http://volvodiagnostic.com/shop/inde...duct&id_lang=1
    That's an excellent price, I'd go for that.

    2004 V70R 6spd manual:: Custom JRtuning REMAP @ peak 21psi :: Custom 2.75" exhaust :: New KKK24 :: WG 5.5 psi :: Tints :: IPD R gauge Rev.3 :: CFWerks door pod :: Forge CBV yellow spring @18psi :: Windowed stock housing + blue filter :: Powerflex :: Superpro Engine mount :: ATE super blue :: TW FMIC :: Eibach 5mm spacers :: Brembo 330mm drilled discs :: iMiV 'Classic'+ BT :: D2R XENARC 5500k + LED H7 + LED H3 :: Atacama :: VolvoTech CFE OBD-V1 :: See garage for full mod list

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    It's a common fault it does the same on my 70 if I have the heater on or it's a hot day it works fine if I've got the aircon on it either don't work at all or it's like a disco !,


 

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