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Thread: Is it worth it?

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    Is it worth it?

    I'm not sure what to do now... The R is blue smoking and been told it's piston rings.

    PCV has been replaced, turbo has been checked and getting low compression so it's either rings or valve stem seals.

    I've been quoted to replace rings which will also include recon head (Recon head will involve the following: Strip , clean and inspect. De Coke ports , valves and combustion chambers. New stem seals. Relap and leak test valves. Resemble and reface if required.) plus also block mod and replace cambelt (leave idler / tensioner) for approx 1400.00

    Is that a good price?

    My worry is they take the engine part and it could be something more serious $$$

    I don't really want to sell the car as she been one of the best cars i've owened! But the car is now 14 years old with 114,000 miles on it. I probably won't even get alot for selling her even though these are becoming more rare every year.

    The car is also on original shocks so it could be they need replacing soon but seem ok at the moment.

    I'm getting an low oil light everyday now so this probably needs fixing asap even though i've been told it should be ok for a few months. The car is pefectly driving and boosting just now and again i get blue smoke, mostly in boost though or decelerate!

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    How much do you think the R would be worth?

    She's an 2003 S60R Black Sapphire with 114,000 miles. She's only got 3 previous owners.

    Full service history and stamps. I've got tons of paper work.

    When I purchase the car I took her to SW Autos and did a full service, cambelt kit, AWD service, powerflex front arm bushes and rear drop links. Cost 1000.00 and was done at 92,000 in 2015. Since then I've serviced the car myself.

    Oil and Oil filter i've changed every 6000 miles. Using 5w30 Motul 8100 Eco-Nergy Fully Synthetic. This year i did change to Fuchs TITAN GT1 XTL 5W-40. Also using Mann oil filter.

    Spark Plugs every year using NGK Platinum.

    New battery - Purchased last month, was still using original battery so done well!

    Angle gear, gearbox oil replaced this year at 111,000 using Redline. Haldex and rear diff needs doing again which i've got the parts for. I like to do every 2 years.

    Coolant has been changed every year using Motul Inugel Expert Coolant

    Turbo replaced with K24 with 11 blade billet wheel this year at 111,000.

    Snabb Intake - 2017 Cost 200.00

    Snabb FMIC - 2016 Cost 700.000

    Full custom exhaust - 2015 cost around 600/700 (Was a 3" straight pipe from turbo but now as middle resonator.) She is quite loud! But not as loud as when straighted pipe...

    Front & Rear drilled discs with new pads - 2017 cost 350.00 (Also painted discs and calipers red.)

    Stage 2 tune - 2016 (Gustav/Contrast tune which include Anti-Lag, Flat and stage 2). I think it was around 600 Made a massive difference boosting around 21-23psi

    front headlight glass replaced in 2016 - Cost 100.00

    Two new front pirelli tyres. Rear pirelli tyres has enough tred.

    MOT done last month. Only failed on handbrake cable and front tyres. Both got replaced.

    PCV replaced this year at 113,000 miles.

    The car hasn't been re-tuned since fitting 11 blade billet wheel. So this will need doing.

    I've got a dyno sheet at AMD Essex and she made 352BHP and 378Ft torque so with the billet wheel and re-tune should get around 380BHP and 400ft torque which i've been told by Gustav...

    The car has been well looked after and maintain.

    I have also resprayed the original pegs black. Which looks cool.

    I would be sad to let her go but with the rings or valve stem seals need replacing, how much do you think she's worth?

    I've probably missed loads out but i've got tons of paperwork etc...
    Last edited by kevinking2020; Friday 30th June 2017 at 19:50.

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    I'm not an expert, regarding the engine job you've been quoted, therefore I cannot comment it from the price prospective.

    My advice:
    Calculate how much money you have to spend to get her back to the desired state. 1400 for a start, possibly another 500-600 to spend on shocks. These are which you already mentioned. Possibly there are more to be spend as it is a 14 years old car, no matter what.
    My best case estimate would be min 2500-3000 to spend with safety reserve. If you have that amount available to spend on the car (only) and you willing to spend that amount without hesitation, as you say "I don't really want to sell the car as she been one of the best cars i've owened!" then go for it.
    However if you have even the slightest doubt to spend that amount, count your losses, let her go and look for another car.

    You won't get too much for your R in its current condition.
    Parting out its another option.

    What about an engine replacement instead the 'rebuild' (T5)?
    Last edited by htomi; Friday 30th June 2017 at 21:25.


    2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    That sounds a fair price for the ammount of work.
    In regards to is it worth it htomi has summed it up perfectly.
    Looking at prices what they are selling for i honnestly cannot see you getting anything over 2k for a p2r with engine issies obviously breaking the car would be more financial.

    Personally if you can afford it ide 100% go for the repair new rings gaskets seals head work etc etc that's a good bill of health you shouldn't have to worrie about for a long time also while its appart ask for the bearings to be inspected for the little extra cost minds well get them done also find out about the issue with low oil.

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    Only advice I can give, well, it's not even advice really, just an opinion...

    Say you had to spend 3k over the next 12 months sorting the engine and a few others bits and bobs. What else are you going to get for 3 grand that would give the same comfort, performance and enjoyment? OK sure, there are other cars out there that can be bought for bobbins, but none are a free ride and will all throw up big and small bills along the way. If you have an emotional attachment to the car and it's truly one of the best you've had, then it seems to me that's it's worth spending the money on it, even if it doesn't make obvious financial sense.

    THat is of course if you can afford to. On the other hand, if you just don't have the love for it anymore or fancy something else then it's time to move on.
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
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    Also to get this done ive got to drop the car off which is like 200 miles away from me. But he's only the one i trust my car with and quite a reasonable price.

    I know if i get this done the car should last a few more years or more.

    My worry is if he takes the head off and the liners are cracked or something. I doubt it is as i'm not loosing any coolant.

    I was even thinking about replacing the engine with 2.4T but they aint cheap. One on ebay with 80,000 for 2k plus labour charge for getting it installed and swapping out the R components etc...

    There's no other car out there that can replace the R. There's too many common cars and i love the fact she's a sleeper and still to this day i've not seen another S60R on the road! Seen a few V70. Put the downsize is she does cost me a fortune in petrol, by the time i get to work the car has only just warmed up. I know the petrol would be bad and it didn't bother me at first! But laterly i'm getting around 300 or less to a full tank

    I'm not a big fan of diesel cars but i have been looking at E91 335D. Good size for kids, a lot of power and can still achieve 30+ mpg.

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    Put the downsize is she does cost me a fortune in petrol, by the time i get to work the car has only just warmed up. I know the petrol would be bad and it didn't bother me at first! But laterly i'm getting around 300 or less to a full tank
    Yes, that's happening when you use the car in short distance driving. The R is a long distance/highway cruiser.

    I'm not a big fan of diesel cars but i have been looking at E91 335D. Good size for kids, a lot of power and can still achieve 30+ mpg.
    I would highly recommend to stay away from the BMW/Audi/VW diesels.... these are even a bigger money pit than the R.
    In general stay way from diesels if you're using the car for short distance, less than 50km/one way commuting.

    Get a petrol powered city runner 1.2 to 1.4 engine size.
    If you really wish to have a diesel, then look at the first or second gen Skoda Octavia.


    2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinking2020 View Post
    I'm not sure what to do now... The R is blue smoking and been told it's piston rings.

    PCV has been replaced, turbo has been checked and getting low compression so it's either rings or valve stem seals.

    I've been quoted to replace rings which will also include recon head (Recon head will involve the following: Strip , clean and inspect. De Coke ports , valves and combustion chambers. New stem seals. Relap and leak test valves. Resemble and reface if required.) plus also block mod and replace cambelt (leave idler / tensioner) for approx 1400.00

    Is that a good price?

    My worry is they take the engine part and it could be something more serious $$$

    I don't really want to sell the car as she been one of the best cars i've owened! But the car is now 14 years old with 114,000 miles on it. I probably won't even get alot for selling her even though these are becoming more rare every year.

    The car is also on original shocks so it could be they need replacing soon but seem ok at the moment.

    I'm getting an low oil light everyday now so this probably needs fixing asap even though i've been told it should be ok for a few months. The car is pefectly driving and boosting just now and again i get blue smoke, mostly in boost though or decelerate!
    Quote Originally Posted by kevinking2020 View Post
    How much do you think the R would be worth?

    She's an 2003 S60R Black Sapphire with 114,000 miles. She's only got 3 previous owners.

    Full service history and stamps. I've got tons of paper work.

    When I purchase the car I took her to SW Autos and did a full service, cambelt kit, AWD service, powerflex front arm bushes and rear drop links. Cost 1000.00 and was done at 92,000 in 2015. Since then I've serviced the car myself.

    Oil and Oil filter i've changed every 6000 miles. Using 5w30 Motul 8100 Eco-Nergy Fully Synthetic. This year i did change to Fuchs TITAN GT1 XTL 5W-40. Also using Mann oil filter.

    Spark Plugs every year using NGK Platinum.

    New battery - Purchased last month, was still using original battery so done well!

    Angle gear, gearbox oil replaced this year at 111,000 using Redline. Haldex and rear diff needs doing again which i've got the parts for. I like to do every 2 years.

    Coolant has been changed every year using Motul Inugel Expert Coolant

    Turbo replaced with K24 with 11 blade billet wheel this year at 111,000.

    Snabb Intake - 2017 Cost 200.00

    Snabb FMIC - 2016 Cost 700.000

    Full custom exhaust - 2015 cost around 600/700 (Was a 3" straight pipe from turbo but now as middle resonator.) She is quite loud! But not as loud as when straighted pipe...

    Front & Rear drilled discs with new pads - 2017 cost 350.00 (Also painted discs and calipers red.)

    Stage 2 tune - 2016 (Gustav/Contrast tune which include Anti-Lag, Flat and stage 2). I think it was around 600 Made a massive difference boosting around 21-23psi

    front headlight glass replaced in 2016 - Cost 100.00

    Two new front pirelli tyres. Rear pirelli tyres has enough tred.

    MOT done last month. Only failed on handbrake cable and front tyres. Both got replaced.

    PCV replaced this year at 113,000 miles.

    The car hasn't been re-tuned since fitting 11 blade billet wheel. So this will need doing.

    I've got a dyno sheet at AMD Essex and she made 352BHP and 378Ft torque so with the billet wheel and re-tune should get around 380BHP and 400ft torque which i've been told by Gustav...

    The car has been well looked after and maintain.

    I have also resprayed the original pegs black. Which looks cool.

    I would be sad to let her go but with the rings or valve stem seals need replacing, how much do you think she's worth?

    I've probably missed loads out but i've got tons of paperwork etc...
    It's a sad fact that the S60R depreciates more than the V70R even though everything forward of the A pillar is identical. Obviously this is down to the V70R's load carrying capability and 'V'ersatility, hens the V in V70.
    The modified parts you list, though expensive, do not add value to the car, so as a starting point, I'd get two book price quotes from Parkers and another, to see where you stand.
    Above book price it's only worth what someone is prepaired to pay for it and paying over the odds for something that has as many mods as yours does, carries a greater risk. By getting the work done to the head, you'll not only repair it but future proof it too.

    You've basically got three options.

    1/ Break it and sell it for parts to make the most money. A mate of mine did just that recently to a S60R 54plate and made nearly 4000 in 4 months!! That did not include the auto box which was knackered. He also transplanted the engine into his V70R as his had broke due to a seized oil pump.
    So, 4000 for parts (not including the engine and gearbox) is a bloody good deal if you ask me! You will then make more money by selling the additional mods too, so estimate around 4500 - 5000 max.

    2/ 1400 to fix your valve issue sounds fair to me. It's a big job and very labour intensive. It's a fact they will spend more hours working on your car than you will actually pay for. End result will be a working 03 S60R with heavy mods.

    3/ Sell it on ebay as it is and expect to get no more than 1200 - 1500. Anyone that pays more than that will be foolish! However, the upshot is the buyer removes the headache and relieves you of your dilema quickly!

    I agree with Htomi's comments.

    If it were me, I'd fix it. At least you'll have the option of selling a working car afterwards if you decide that's the route to go. Or carry on enjoying it!!

    Regards running costs.....well, if you weren't aware of them before you bought the car it makes you very naive. Nobody buys a performance car then starts worrying about fuel consumption (unless it's excessively abnormal). Cost of wear and tear parts should always be considered when buying a second hand car. On a side note, 114k on OE shocks....trust me...they will be very tired and in need of replacement. The difference will be very noticeable.

    I will say this though, regards the oil consumption, who ever told you that using a litre of oil a day is normal (unless you're driving a 1000 miles very hard) is an idiot and it certainly isn't 'OK'.
    For an R to consume that much oil in such a small timescale rings alarm bells to me and my advise to you is to stop driving it immediately!!

    Save up the money then get it trailered to your mates but under no circumstances drive it!

    2004 V70R 6spd manual:: Custom JRtuning REMAP @ peak 21psi :: Custom 2.75" exhaust :: New KKK24 :: WG 5.5 psi :: Tints :: IPD R gauge Rev.3 :: CFWerks door pod :: Forge CBV yellow spring :: Windowed stock housing + blue filter :: Powerflex :: Superpro Engine mount :: ATE super blue :: TW FMIC :: Eibach 5mm spacers :: Brembo 330mm drilled discs :: iMiV 'Classic'+ BT :: D2R XENARC 5500k + LED H7 + LED H3 :: Atacama :: VolvoTech CFE OBD-V1 :: See garage for full mod list

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    What do you mean? All the ads on eBay say they have never been raced, always warmed up and cooled down, 4 wheel drive works, tested in the snow in 2011, always run on v power and return 35mpg.....................

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    Quote Originally Posted by Markyb View Post
    What do you mean? All the ads on eBay say they have never been raced, always warmed up and cooled down, 4 wheel drive works, tested in the snow in 2011, always run on v power and return 35mpg.....................
    and we all love an ebay ad.....!!!

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  13. #11
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    Nice to have some power again.
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    Actually, the BMW 3.0d twin turbo is pretty reliable as long as the swirl flaps have been sorted. So if you were looking at them i'd say the only expensive thing you need to be careful about is the gearbox. Take it from somebody who knows
    I'd take a facelift E60/61 5 series over the E90/91 3 series though, the interior feels better quality.

    If you don't do many miles i certainly wouldn't recommend one though, not only is short driving bad for diesels but they take a while to warm up and the twin turbo diesel gets sh*t* mpg when cold.

    Personally, i think the quote you've had is pretty good considering the amount of work being done.
    Last edited by LiamT4; Thursday 13th July 2017 at 20:48.
    "The problem with internet quotes, is that you don't know if they're real or not" - Abraham Lincoln


 

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