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Thread: Jon's New V70R

  1. #141
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    I have google the heck out of all systems and the only time IPD came back as droning, was via a Swedespeed thread (I think), where he said later in the thread he realised had something misaligned and once sorted out drone gone. That is not to say they are not a good bit louder than std - see below thread (theblackbox and comment with update). Also I have heard that having any catback AND the downpipe the drone will be more. Out of the two the downpipe will always be the thing likely to give drone. I can see the logic in that.

    Have a read of http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...st-Drone-noise and http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...0R-V70R-models

    Actually the first is not about IPD. But the second is and has the IPD people on there too.

    [Quote Originally Posted by theblackbox View Post

    i installed this about a month and will first say the fit and build quality was extremely well done and it installed in about 45 min. however I have been experiencing in my opinion an above average amount of drone (i really am only concerned with what you can hear in the cabin not from the outside) when i am under 3000/3200 rpms. i was wondering if anyone else has had this issue. it is just much louder than i felt the video IPD put out as well as other videos ive heard of the exhaust. it would maybe not be as bad if it was a higher pitch but it has a low loud drone. I guess it is maybe not the volume as much as the tone anyone have any comparisons to other exhaust systems as far as sound/performance?]

    well an update...

    i found the flange between the downpipe and exhaust was not all the way tight (hence my excessive drone) and i am extremely happy with it. Like i said it fit together perfectly and I'm now in love with it! IPD makes a great product and I'm not an IPD or bust fan but i am very happy with this purchase!
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I am likely to just shim the block, get a good quality catback (maybe IPD, just cos no one else seems to have on over hear, cost of import and maybe the above issue being then expanded apon from Chinese wispers), I like being different, then we can either put any issues over IPD catback to bed or say Jon's has that and it is awful!

    Chatted to Don at Kalmar Union too (to get Tims no.). He laid it out for me that a std V70R / S60R does make pretty much what Volvo said on the tin, 295bhp. And that a good remap (std bar that), should get to ~335bhp, then a good catback and downpipe to 360 (maybe a tad more 370 max I'm guessing but did not say exactly). Sound like half that difference is the catback and half the downpipe. IPD say the catback is good for about 15bhp extra on std car, so down pipe adding 10-20more.

    So from that I think I should be aiming at 345-350 with Map and IPD Catback. That will be enough for me (50-55 up on std), which sounds about right from doing similar to my old T5.

    This agrees with what the mapper I have previously used says on his site http://www.southwestincartech.co.uk/.../volvo_v70.htm So ad about 15 to that for the (big bore) catback and should give 350 (55 over std). A nice 18.6% gain in power, will feel like a lot more (as it is the amout of power / torque "under the curve" is what you feel.

    May take till early next year now to get done as the shimming has added an unexpected amount.

    Rear Brembo's now on with new handbrake shoes and the old style adjusters - tick.

    Trackday on Friday (not in the Volvo!) at Combe so that should give it a good run out / check over.
    Last edited by jellison; Wednesday 11th October 2017 at 11:16.
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    Listening to an exhaust on your PC speakers is not the same as hearing it in real life. Just how good/bad are your speakers for one thing?

    I agree with you though, it's subjective and totally a matter of personal preference.
    No, of course not, but it's still better than having no/limited experience of the different configurations and how they change the sound.

    And I have decent headphones to listen through ;-)
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
    1999 9-5 Aero (Manual) - Sven

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    Good luck with the iPd exhaust. Sounds ok on the computer, however real life test going to tell....

    Before start tuning your baby, make sure she’s back to stage 0. Shiming is a good idea, however a proper intercooler is what you’d need to safely reach the HP goal.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Shimming booked in with Tim in a few weeks.

    340-350 should be doable (enough for what I need), so probably not have big intercooler (Don saying it only adds if really on the thing for a good while -i.e. tracking it, or really ragging the nads off it for long periods on the roads - is that even possible! It is and estate car), where under those conditions when it get really hot the ECU will knock it back to safe limits. I will not be using it like that.

    5mm Eibachs spacers went on yesterday, at work today in carpark no wheel well scrapping for the first time (did get for my 17" rims that do not quite clear the 4 pots for the winter but popped on the std 18's for now to see how if they would help with the above. Looks not really much in it.

    Oh and rear brakes now spot on - handbrake and overall stopping.

    Can't believe the money I am spending on this thing though.

    Looking forward to the end point (just normal maintenance), maybe Spring time. Ready for lots of towing.....!

    Cheers
    Jelly
    Last edited by jellison; Thursday 12th October 2017 at 07:23.
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    340-350 HP is a lot. trust me you need a better intercooler! Its one of the weakest point of the R due to the factory one is undersized. If you don't want to add an FMIC (Snabb or what Tim is selling) then go for the do88 unit. Better flow, improved performance over the stock.

    Plenty of threads about the intercooler topic on sweedspeed, have a read and you'll see.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    I have 3 race cars to maintain, no kids(!), so only shimming, cat-back and a map for me. Then just maintain it in really nice nick. That on the T5 (obviously no shimming), made a Massive difference. If I can get same sort of uplift on the R I'll be plenty happy.

    For reference the T5 (with 150ish k miles on it v.early this year), with the Jetex SS system fitted in place of the standard for remapped had a base RR run and made 250bhp (i.e. what it should have been as std, but it did have 150ishk on it so guessing but was maybe 240-245 with the std catback). Post remap 2 hours later it left with 305bhp and torque ended up at ~293 (not sure off top of head what the base was). But that was a 55bhp gain over the base setting (with the big-bore), so more like 60-62bhp+ over a guestimated 240-245 base (original exhaust).

    So with the law of diminishing returns (but you do have a tad more capacity and a bigger turbo to off set that). So if I can go from lets say an honest 295 and add 45 (well down on the above) I think that is a reasonable assumption. Only issue being the place I use is a 2wd rollers, so to get it verified I'll have to book in after at SRR (Surrey Rolling road to see what I end up with).

    If I can get it to the same power to weight as the T5 was before it left me, then than will be plenty (i.e. offset the extra weight and transmission losses for the 4x4 gubbins). Tim W was saying have I tried pushing and R about (no), they take a lot more to move about than a 2wd P2.....
    Last edited by jellison; Thursday 12th October 2017 at 13:31.
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    Htomi - what did you replace your R with (as I see it says now sold)?
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    I have 3 race cars to maintain, no kids(!), so only shimming, cat-back and a map for me. Then just maintain it in really nice nick. That on the T5 (obviously no shimming), made a Massive difference. If I can get same sort of uplift on the R I'll be plenty happy.
    That’s all well and good. Problem is, once the car is mapped it’ll be running more boost. More boost = more heat. I guarantee within 6 months you’ll either crack the Turbo flange or split your intercooler, if you don’t replace the IC with a quality aftermarket unit.
    It will also expose other weak points.
    Like Htomi says.
    IMHO Tim’s IC is the best for guaranteed power gains. This has been proven in a track.
    However, it’s also the most expensive but will mean no cutting of any bodywork, except the small hole on the slam panel for the Aircon port. It also uses stock connections, so no silly extra clamps and silicone adaptors.
    It’s also the biggest IC to fit, literally mm either side to fit.

    See mine or Harveys threads for photos (I did post lots of photos)
    Last edited by LeeT5; Thursday 12th October 2017 at 21:02.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    The car is not going to be ragged, just driven pretty normally and booted as any normal road car (the odd overtake and few minutes blast, anymore than that and you will be pulled or just think what am I doing ragging a 1750kg estate!!). It is my tow car / twice a week car. Not after the last bit of power (just a bit more than std 10-15% will get it back to the power to weight of my old T5 (which was all I want). Who knows I might even think stuff it, once shimmed at least it will be safe as std and not going to break and leave as is. All this stuff is down the line and might do but might not. 2 race engines to get fixed along at present too!
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    Htomi - what did you replace your R with (as I see it says now sold)?
    I needed a smaller size, petrol based urban and daily commuting runner so ended with a Mazda 3, 2.0L petrol (skyactive) - 120 BHP hatchback GT pack. Obviously not a race horse, however its a real fun to drive around corners and windy roads.
    I'm toying with the idea to get it re-mapped by BBR GTi. Will see....


    Why Mazda?

    1. No offence, but no German, French, Czech, Spanish etc as either overpriced or rubbish or both.... so no thanks, not for me.
    2. Volvo currently does not offer anything good (at least not for my taste) and all are diesels (almost impossible to get a petrol Volvo here!) and way-way overpriced...
    3. I hate diesel cars - all sounds like a tractor - only few brands are offering petrol versions over 100 BHP.
    4. Got an unbelievable good offer from the dealer (2nd Mazda we've purchased from them)
    5. Very reliable.
    6. Was way cheaper than the competitor - Honda Civic 1.5 VTECH Turbo Petrol with GT pack.

    Do I miss my R - yes! As said in my own thread, my heart still goes for the R, however my mind tells me that I made the right decision especially when I look at my newborn baby girl


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    That’s all well and good. Problem is, once the car is mapped it’ll be running more boost. More boost = more heat. I guarantee within 6 months you’ll either crack the Turbo flange or split your intercooler, if you don’t replace the IC with a quality aftermarket unit.
    It will also expose other weak points.
    Like Htomi says.
    IMHO Tim’s IC is the best for guaranteed power gains. This has been proven in a track.
    However, it’s also the most expensive but will mean no cutting of any bodywork, except the small hole on the slam panel for the Aircon port. It also uses stock connections, so no silly extra clamps and silicone adaptors.
    It’s also the biggest IC to fit, literally mm either side to fit.
    jellison, no offence buddy, but Lee is telling the same thing what I told you already. It doesn't matter if you race the car or not. 50-60 extra HP and the increased boost would require a proper support, especially when we talking about a P2 R. The engine needs to breathe and cool properly. You cannot achieve this with stock parts. I see you're reading the us forum. Please read through Travis's thread. (TRAV)
    http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...s-Build-Thread focus on his first build (before he Darton sleeved the block) and how he managed to reach that insane power level from the stock block without cracking the sleeve.

    Your T5 was a different animal. One of the best engine made by Volvo which can be easily and safely tuned with less hassle compared to a P2 R.
    The R is a different beast...


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    SH*T this HID dipped beams are expensive. £120 for for 2. Was fed up of the winking drivers one going on and off and the difference in colour of them when on. Popped 2 new ones in, hopefully that fixed (mind I know P2 lights are always failing!).
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    SH*T this HID dipped beams are expensive. £120 for for 2. Was fed up of the winking drivers one going on and off and the difference in colour of them when on. Popped 2 new ones in, hopefully that fixed (mind I know P2 lights are always failing!).
    You should always replace HID bulbs as 'pairs' due to the colour temp change, as they age!

    No idea why you paid so much for them, where did you buy them from...Halfords or Dealer?

    I bought my D2R XENARC COOL BLUE 5500k from a good source on ebay for about £45 the pair.

    Here's a link....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-OSRAM-....c100677.m4598

    If you look at my project thread, you'll see the light output is not blue either, it's a crisp pure white! They just have a tint of blue from a distance when looking at the car from front.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    TITS. Halfords. Just woke up an thought that flickering on and off of the driver one has to stop NOW. So down to Halfords.

    Bookmarks for when I need some more (bet it will be years now!).

    Oh well!

    Car going really well now. Lights the same obviously now and now drivers side dropping out on the one drive to work today.

    Car in with Tim W next Friday for block shimming (+ oil / filter change 5w-40 (no more of that 0w-30 crap (just like water)), and new cambelt kit.

    Then likely the car will not get touched (updates wise) till Jan / Feb. Bar winter rims / tyres.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    TITS. Halfords. Just woke up an thought that flickering on and off of the driver one has to stop NOW. So down to Halfords.

    Bookmarks for when I need some more (bet it will be years now!).

    Oh well!

    Car going really well now. Lights the same obviously now and now drivers side dropping out on the one drive to work today.

    Car in with Tim W next Friday for block shimming (+ oil / filter change 5w-40 (no more of that 0w-30 crap (just like water)), and new cambelt kit.

    Then likely the car will not get touched (updates wise) till Jan / Feb. Bar winter rims / tyres.
    Yes indeed. My winter wheels/tyres go on in the next couple of weeks after a full wheel alignment.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Update. Now on 92.5k.

    Day at Tim William yesterday. Now done.

    Yesterday - Oil change (bin that std 0-30 crap the dealers put in - death these things!), now on Gulf Race 5w-40 and will be topping with (Fuchs)10w-60 over
    next year / 10k). Tim was saying the VVT on both cams just mashes the oil, so the std stuff then just give minimal protection and gets used real fast.
    - Cambelt kit(OEM), it had had a belt on at some stage, could not kind in all receipts (did not look old), anyway new one on and cams dialed in
    (one was 5.8 the other 1.9. Now 1.9 and 2.3. Nice).
    - Tim's block mod done and all new seals, bolts and new head gasket.
    - New set of RS (one stage cooler) RS plugs.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------
    - All of the Brembo brake kit now on, plus the adjustable handbrake mod.
    - Sub-frame inserts.
    - Top and Bottom poly engine mounts.
    - Poly Inserts to the cross-brace (tried solids - not for me).
    - Fuel Pressure sensor change plus clean of the MAF.
    - Eibach spacer on (but really for the 17"'s).

    Now spot on, another small improvement on way home yesterday.

    Now will run for 2-3 months pre-exhaust and tune. Needs it, to be more with the next generation of this type of car now. The wake up.....

    Defo getting there. Good to pick Tim's brain on what is worth doing and what is a waste of time (for me), wanting it to be a properly fast but reliable nice day / tow car. He thought it was a really nice one

    Way better than when I bought it mid summer!

    Other cars to get fixed now.....
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    Nice

    V70 2.4T5 M66 Summum

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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    - New set of RS (one stage cooler) RS plugs.
    Whats the benefit of those then?
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Helps to prevent knock, especially if it's mapped. I have two stages colder on mine.

    V70 2.4T5 M66 Summum

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    Might have to look at set of these when I get serivce and mot done. Do you have any links as to where you purchased them from? Wish I could get hold of tim to have a look at my vvt and set it again as its still hunting at idle occasionally and doesn't feel like it has any gains up the Rev band once the turbo kicks in, feels very flat.


 

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