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Thread: Jon's New V70R

  1. #201
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    antonys60r's Avatar
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    I'm pleased Jon your finally getting your R to somewhere near where you want it.
    Your exhaust is very tempting !

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    (still not convinced by this 4x4 stuff being needed with modern tyres - WTCC cars are mostly FWD with 380bhp).
    A new Lambda sensor will always make a big difference. If you wanna improve things further, remove and clean the ETM and then reset the adaptions for the ETM. Then you'll feel an even bigger improvement, especially in throttle response. Couple that with new spark plugs too!

    Also, try pulling the fuse for the AOC and see what the car drives like then! For you to say the above clearly says that you underestimate just how much a difference the AWD makes, especially when putting upwards of 300bhp through the wheels. It doesn't matter how expensive or great the tyres are, on normal roads in the UK I can use 100% of my R's available power 100% of the time. When the AWD is not working, frankly, it can be ridiculous and embarrassing. Add a damp surface or rain and I'm restricted to driving like I've got my Nan in the passenger seat.
    When my AWD failed earlier last year, I was shocked at just how much I take it for granted and the confidence it gives you when the conditions are really miserable.

    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    My second point (largely around the above findings) is why would you every use a Volvo main dealer, when there is Vida and good local mechanic you trust (all they do is plug Vida in and order the duff part, not much skill as far as properly diagnosing anything)!
    Mmmm, I don't think your slagging off of main dealers is justified. Just because you had a great result with the new Lambda sensor doesn't mean it's the dealer fault that the cars been driving under powered. A lazy, slow reacting lambda sensor will not put the EML on unless the lambda sensor readings fall out of range of the expected values for the ECM. That's the whole point of 'adaption' and allowing for a slow, degradation of sensors on the engine, which over time, will become contaminated by carbon, dirt and oil.

    It would be woefully wrong of any main dealer to suggest that they replace any sensor just because it's done 100k or 'it's slow to react and the engine will perform better with a new one'! That's blindingly obvious.
    If the sensor is working within spec then they wouldn't and SHOULDN'T replace it.

    To say that all they do is plug in VIDA and replace a duff part is a bit unfair. What would you expect them to do, leave the 'duff part' fitted to your car?

    If you took your car to a main dealer for a full service costing, lets say 300 and you went to collect your car and the bill was 600, would you be happy or annoyed?
    ...But what If I told you that not only did they do a full service for 300, they also spent 4 hours removing and cleaning the MAF sensor, BPS, ETM, MAP sensor, cleaned the blades on the turbo impellor, removed and cleaned the spark plugs (replaced if necessary), reset throttle adaptions.

    The point I'm making is any garage/Dealer can do all of the above but main dealers will only rectify any faults based on symptoms or faults codes found because they are on strict time and cannot be seen doing stuff to customers cars that is not in relation to the original request/fault that the car came in for. That practice can land them in serious hot water and complaints from customers about doing work that wasn't needed, dispite the fact that to a trained mechanic/technician, we all know that it DOES make a big difference. Trying to explain that to Joe bloggs who doesn't know the first thing about cars will only look like the Dealer is trying to profit, which is why they don't do it.

    If a garage chooses to do that, it would be done as a good will or if no significant time was added to the job. As labour rates are generally cheaper than main dealers, it's easier for the customer to swallow and therefore easier for the garage to justify!
    Last edited by LeeT5; Thursday 8th March 2018 at 12:47.

    2004 V70R 6spd manual:: Custom JRtuning REMAP @ peak 21psi :: Custom 2.75" exhaust :: TTV SMF + 07 Clutch :: WG 5.0 psi :: Tints :: IPD R gauge Rev.3 :: CFWerks door pod :: Forge CBV + yellow spring :: Windowed stock housing + blue filter :: Powerflex :: Superpro Engine mount :: Brembo Dot 5.1 :: TW FMIC :: Eibach 5mm spacers :: Brembo 330mm drilled discs :: iMiV 'Classic'+ BT :: D2R XENARC 5500k + LED H7 + LED H3 :: VolvoTech CFE OBD-V1 :: See garage for full mod list

  3. #203
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    Hi Lee, I'll see how she goes now I have the power it should have had. You're probably right on the grip (once mapped), but in 300bhp guise 235/245x40 17/18's and good suspension FWD would be fine - T5 with wobbly old suspension but 235 x17's on and new Goodyears was up to the job and the suspension was 16 years old and ultra soft. If that had had those wheels / tyres, 310bhp and a set of lowered B6's it would have been fantastic. 350+bhp probably would have overwhelmed that though. Mind any given corner I can go round just as fast or faster in an 18 yr old Puma with just lowering springs (almost 800kg less).

    What I was saying is that clearly the Volvo service just before I bought it did not flag that the lambda was not working (it could not have been as it felt Ok when bought but just flat (not what I was expecting, how would you know!). We can agree to disagree on dealer stuff. 130 plus per hour is largely just paying for say 10 service staff, 5 sales staff and 5 - 10 other sales / admin (going on my local dealer setup) people, etc staffs salary's and the huge overheads in the property rental. Then you have the costs on (some parts - certainly not all being 2-3x what the same part will be away from the dealer, and example being all fluids were bit cheaper (all Volvo stuff from PFS, but the Lambda (same bosch part) was ~2.4x the price (94 vs 230 quid!).

    Would not change that view on Dealers. Just waiting for lotto win then I might take my Fezza F12 to the dealer cos I will not care about through cash away. Till then I have some other toys that need lots spent on them!

    Hi Anthony - have to show you what it is like once mapped. Will try to get a vid (static camera aimed at exhaust) once mapped.
    PH > https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp? I memberId=7660
    Vids > https://www.youtube.com/user/MaximumAttack575/videos

  4. #204
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    I have my K24 with a 11 blade wheel pushing 25psi.
    On the dry, I can only find grip in 3rd gear. On the wet, only in 4th gear. I have Pilot Sport 4.
    It's great on the highway but that's about it. I like it a lot but I agree with Lee.

    V70 2.4T5 M66 Summum

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    Grip is overrated. Kills racing.

    Is K24 the std Turbo on R or T5 or bigger than either?

    You should try 480bhp in a car weighing 1030kg on 225/60x15's on a tiny 85.5" wheelbase (V70 23" longer) - FUN though
    PH > https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp? I memberId=7660
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    Must be fun!!

    The K24 is standard on the >05 T5's and R's.

    V70 2.4T5 M66 Summum

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    Ricardo. Gotcha on the Turbos. Mine was an 01 (so smaller one). Yours must be a sweet T5 with the bigger turbo, decent suspension and 17 or bigger wheels / tyres (proper sleeper) + no need for head shimming and can take big boost straight off. Gonna be not far off an R at similar levels of boost and 170Kg lighter - Nice combo .
    I'll have to ask the mapper what kind of max boost mine ends up with (not fitting a boost gauge).

    Keeps you focused!! If you try to over drive it it will just spit you off / kill you. My Tr6 with 235bhp is barely slower on a flying lap, but Griff just destroys straights once hooked up. Get it back with freshened engine (closing on 500bhp maybe) in next few weeks, (run in on road for 250 - 300 miles then dyno it - place I use has a 4x4 dyno so will do a power run on the R at the same time, map next Friday). Hope to then stop spending on the R for a good while. I really have spend a lot on this since last summer, can't be many fully sorted / properly tweaked manuals out there.
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    I'm thinking having a new lambda sensor fitted, mine lost top end power when I had the ferrita downpipe added, although vida shows no obvious errors it's never been the same since, and I have a random hunting that appears at idle for no reason, again looking at different things on vida showed nothing was untoward, had a leak test done, still nothing, both one way valves replaced. I'm thinking another 100 quid thrown at it won't hurt and will stop it playing on my mind every time I struggle to keep up with slightly sub 6 second cars, as to why it isn't as quick as it used to feel

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    Quote Originally Posted by Markyb View Post
    I'm thinking having a new lambda sensor fitted, mine lost top end power when I had the ferrita downpipe added, although vida shows no obvious errors it's never been the same since, and I have a random hunting that appears at idle for no reason, again looking at different things on vida showed nothing was untoward, had a leak test done, still nothing, both one way valves replaced. I'm thinking another 100 quid thrown at it won't hurt and will stop it playing on my mind every time I struggle to keep up with slightly sub 6 second cars, as to why it isn't as quick as it used to feel
    Hi Get some one to look at your air/fuel ratio with a wide band O2 sensor on a dyno
    or fit a wide band O2 sensor and gauge and test under load,
    but 1st test the cars lambda sensor/o2 don't just go changing parts without testing them, you may find that with the new pipe it is running to weak as it is getting better flow, log the mass air flow meter to see if it is maxing out,
    Dave

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    OK, mapping done.

    Firstly more on the different just having the working Lambda made, really good improvement all through rev range (like the car I thought I was buying in the summer last year!). had a great run from Stroud to the mappers on M4 junction on friday, (amazing open road for 17 odd miles (strange not run it before having lived down there early part of life).

    Anyway the difference was as I expected. Similar jump to T5 with map and a catback. Tuner (2wd roller but does pretty much any turbo car as you can see from his website - Southwestincartech). He guestimated with that tune and my exhaust it is going to be about 350bhp & 345ft/lbs. I'd say that is about right (give or take 5bhp/ft/lbs), 1st, 2nd 3rd gear pull now really good. 6th gear roll on at anything over 80 is bloody good. Probably get it dyno'd when I have my freshly rebuilt TVR engine in for it final power run post running in (4x4 rollers) - 4-6 weeks. Outside a BIG turbo (not doing that - wife might draw the line!), a downpipe or intercooler would only give max 20-25bhp more that it has, and for me it is now spot on. A proper sleeper (mine is hardly sounds it!).

    Tuner did say it will smooth out over next few days of running as ecu relearns some base stuff that get wiped when ecu flashed. Original mapped all saved to various secure places if ever wanted it back. Also I asked if he could raise the stupidly low idle (real number on the life tracing were 680 - 730 ish - stupid. Bloody emission crap. He said as the later Gen 3 ecu this would be hard to tweak (as only allows with in very small limits, but he did manage to get it closer to 800, and defo smooths the idle with the poly gbox mounts, x brace insert ones and top mount - 900 would have been better but ha!).

    Hopefully just enjoy it now as I doubt I will mod it anymore (certainly not a downpipe - it sound like a Group B S1Audi already). I could seem myself maybe doing a Intercooler down the road (not FMIC). But for how I'll be using it, the way it is now should be good. Have to stop spending cash on it now (it is ALL done).

    Gotta concentrate on getting the cars this things was bought to tow back together over the next month or two now!!

    I have spent a bloody lot on this thing (only manual one for sale out of about 5-6 in the country (V70R's) when I bought and lowish miles, so really not cheap for what its was, new brakes all round, lots of minor stuff to get back to what I thought it should be, lots of poly stuff (though not suspension as like how it is std), all those fluids, filters done, the mega catback and now the tune. Alot. Everything I can possibly think off basically..........

    It just turned 95k on why back from mappers.

    Will try to get a Vid of the noise (strap race cam to tow bar) and go for a blast.
    PH > https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp? I memberId=7660
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  11. #211
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    Mate got me this - mint Dealer Brochure (car was Squire Furneaux car too). My car on the cover!

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  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    Mate got me this - mint Dealer Brochure (car was Squire Furneaux car too). My car on the cover!

    Name:  IMG_2236.JPG
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    Same here

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to Harvey For This Useful Post:

    Ric@rdo (Tuesday 26th June 2018)


 

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