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Thread: Jon's New V70R

  1. #21
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    I did wonder!!

    Mmm, not sure where I get that from then. Last car you'd want to track...
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    Got the Box of Brembo stuff a few days back. Fitted the front yesterday (easy job, bar one pad need a good bit of grinding to slide into the caliper (~1mm off each end!).

    Will get to the back (disc pads and handbrake pads) over the next week or so as time allows (too many cars - all need something - endless).

    It now brake how I thought it should, (it was utter crap when I bought it - the disc's down as an advisory on last service (less than 100 before I bought it - Volvo), which is nuts - they should have said they are ready for the BIN, you really must be doing those now. Anyway I'm sure he X'd drilled stuff and Brembo pads (same as an Evo 9/10) will be better. It stops now!

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  3. #23
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    It's odd that the disc's don't seem massive when you open the box or see them sat behind an enormous 18" rim, until you put a tape on them and realize, yep they are 330mm (front and back!). I can see how it needs these to haul up the huge weight though.
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    Got the Box of Brembo stuff a few days back. Fitted the front yesterday (easy job, bar one pad need a good bit of grinding to slide into the caliper (~1mm off each end!).

    Will get to the back (disc pads and handbrake pads) over the next week or so as time allows (too many cars - all need something - endless).

    It now brake how I thought it should, (it was utter crap when I bought it - the disc's down as an advisory on last service (less than 100 before I bought it - Volvo), which is nuts - they should have said they are ready for the BIN, you really must be doing those now. Anyway I'm sure he X'd drilled stuff and Brembo pads (same as an Evo 9/10) will be better. It stops now!
    That's because the caliper that those pads are fitted with has the dreaded alloy corrosion and expansion issue.
    I had to replace three of my calipers after they were all suffering the same fate.

    Basically, the stainless steel plate that is the guide for the pads, is held in by a single Torques screw (x25 I think).
    Having stainless steel and bare alloy (in the thread hole) causes galvanic corrosion and it causes the hole to close up and expand the alloy, lifting the stainless steel plate off the surface, this in turn makes the pads very difficult to refit, especially when new.
    Grinding paint and a little bit of metal of the end of the pad will allow you to fit but will result in the pad not sitting in the correct position in relation to the disc surface. This will, in a short space of time result in pad/disc squeal that does not go away even after applying brake pad grease to the rear of the pads.
    Over time, this can also cause the pads to bind and not wear evenly and correctly on both sides, resulting in premature failure and early replacement of the pads.

    Removing the pads at every service and thoroughly cleaning all the brake dust off the caliper slides and caliper body will help but the only way to cure the issue is to replace the caliper.

    I've got one more rear caliper to replace due to this issue and it's the one that is constantly noisy under light braking (the one remaining caliper thats not been replaced). On the last service I removed the pads and they were an absolute pig to get out.

    I wouldn't advise trying to remove the screw and plate with the aim of cleaning or filing away the bare exposed alloy corrosion as you'll cause the hole to crumble and the screw will never go back in and you won't be able to secure the plate, rendering the caliper U/S.
    Last edited by LeeT5; Thursday 13th July 2017 at 14:32.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Replace the vanity cover in front right corner of engine bay with new (had a big crack across it).

    Now found the top engine mount is knackered (Christ this things seem to last 5 minutes!).

    Gonna get the poly version and the poly'd underneath gearbox/torque one too (have you seen the IPD vid showing how much play is in the std one of these (small end movement is Nuts!!)).

    Was thinking about the solid strut brace mounts too, but in the end decided (it is a luxury express) to go with the poly inserts for the std mounts. http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=2303

    Surprises me that this car was FSH at Volvo, plus other for minor stuff and the brakes were shot and the top mount is shagge'd too (just presuming the bottom on is too and the ne std one being made of putty has to be an uprated one).
    Last edited by jellison; Wednesday 19th July 2017 at 11:35.
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    Just change mind. Change to the solid strut mounts instead.
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    Update.

    Should have not change my mind on the solid strut mounts. While the poly upper and lower engine steadies are great the solid strut mounts are way way too much (IMO). The extra vibs through feet and cabin at lower engine speeds is awful - I would not be impressed with this on a race car! Don't get me wrong the 3 together make for a much better driving experience as far as performance is concerned, but the extra the solid mounts gives is unacceptable in my book. If it was a tracked Scoobie I might think it worth it, not in a luxury performance wagon.

    Harvey - getting the subframe inserts today along with the strut brace (std) poly insert kit. Hopefully report the difference in next week or so.

    All bits very easy to fit. Only pain was having to take the plastic cover off the top of the engine to get at one of the corner bolts holding the top steady on, and to do this the 2 middle star bolts could not be gotten out without taking the big ali intercooler pipe off (on T5 the plastic one could just be gently pushed out of the way to get to these).
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  8. #28
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    I have Solid IPD engine brace brackets, Superpro top engine mount, Powerflex Black series top engine mount (small rear bush), Powerflex purple lower transmission torque mount (small bush is PF, larger bush is stock) and subframe poly inserts and absolutely no cabin vibration whatsoever!

    I believe the vibration your experiencing is coming from the larger top engine mount. What colour and make is it your using?
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    I have Solid IPD engine brace brackets, Superpro top engine mount, Powerflex Black series top engine mount (small rear bush), Powerflex purple lower transmission torque mount (small bush is PF, larger bush is stock) and subframe poly inserts and absolutely no cabin vibration whatsoever!

    I believe the vibration your experiencing is coming from the larger top engine mount. What colour and make is it your using?
    bright blue from parts for Volvo.

    Gonna try std brace mounts on again over weekend to pinpoint.

    But I was under the impression that the top and bottom poly mounts were the fore and aft movement.
    Where as the brace it thing the towers to the body structure laterally.

    I'll see what I find. Will pop in the subframe bushes when I get them, the experiment with the inserts for the
    Std strut brace brackets. Low speed and off idle the worse areas for it. Car feels tight though.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    bright blue from parts for Volvo.

    Gonna try std brace mounts on again over weekend to pinpoint.

    But I was under the impression that the top and bottom poly mounts were the fore and aft movement.
    Where as the brace it thing the towers to the body structure laterally.

    I'll see what I find. Will pop in the subframe bushes when I get them, the experiment with the inserts for the
    Std strut brace brackets. Low speed and off idle the worse areas for it. Car feels tight though.
    Then the bright blue Poly bush is obviously too hard and the reason for getting dash vibration.

    I kept my setup as it is and recently tried a PF black series engine top mount and the vibration was insane!!! Took it straight out and sold it for £20.

    I then fitted the purple Superpro bush. Sweet!

    Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SuperPro-P...8AAOSwRJ9XhJ3i
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Reading with interest as I'm trying to decide on an appropriate bush combo for my T5. I wonder if the actual engine mounts could be contibutory to the excessive vibes after fitting the solid engine cross stay brackets. Jon, any idea of the age and condition of your front and rear engine mounts? Same to you Lee, have you replaced yours in the relatively near past?
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
    1999 9-5 Aero (Manual) - Sven

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    Once I have the std brace top mount inserts and tried, I'll know if the solids or the top mount.

    Car only 89k, so doubt the 4 bad engine mounts. Popping inserts in those over weekenend.
    Does feel good bar vibe off idle.

    Just needs another 50bhp. Have you guys read thread by US Doug!
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    I was meaning these mounts Jon
    http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=4494

    PFV do say about the solid engine cross stay brackets that you will get excessive vibes if there is any wear in any of the other engine mounts/bushes, which I take to mean the ones I've linked above, plus the gearbox torque rod, gearbox mount, top engine mount big bush and rear small bush (any others I've missed?).
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
    1999 9-5 Aero (Manual) - Sven

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gold 'N' Brown View Post
    Reading with interest as I'm trying to decide on an appropriate bush combo for my T5. I wonder if the actual engine mounts could be contibutory to the excessive vibes after fitting the solid engine cross stay brackets. Jon, any idea of the age and condition of your front and rear engine mounts? Same to you Lee, have you replaced yours in the relatively near past?
    They've never been replaced and are not known for failing, apart from the Diesels with the vacuum mounts.

    If you fit the brace brackets first with a stock large top mount, you'll find a very subtle, if any increase in vibration. The steering will sharpen up a little too.
    In my experience and playing around with various bushes on my car now, it's the Larger top mount bush that makes a huge difference to cabin vibration.
    The brackets, top small bush, trans lower torque control bush and subframe bush inserts are ALL contributory factors but only in very small doses.

    If I had a stock car with stock bushes and wanted to do it all again, I'd do the following:

    1/ Subframe inserts - sharpen throttle response and increase engine growl (no difference to cabin vibration)
    2/ Lower transmission torque control bush - Buy the latest (improved) OE bush and replace ONLY the small bush with PF purple. Sharpens throttle response and gear changes (No difference to cabin vibration)
    3/ Top engine mount - small bush - change to PF Black series - just adds longevity to mount (No difference to cabin vibration)
    4/ Top engine mount - Large bush - CRITICAL bush with major impact on cabin vibration depending on bush type fitted! Do not fit PF Black series, it's ridiculous and ruins the car - massive vibrations, especially when AC on.
    5/ Engine brace end mounts/brackets - PF purple inserts 50% improvement (No cabin vibration + no change to steering) - IPD/PFV brackets 100% improvement (No cabin vibration + slight improvement to steering feel and throttle response, more growl!)

    Types of bush

    Major differences in poly mean you can play around with the bush type to find the one that suits your need. IMHO its always the Top engine mount - Large bush that makes or breaks the cabin feel.

    PF yellow - soft - in many ppls experience, including my own, these don't last long and will start to break up over time. Transmit subtle vibration.
    PF purple - medium - Good quality and last a long time. Not available as an Top engine mount - Large bush (only on 850 models), but work well everywhere else!
    PF Black series - very hard - Forget this as an engine mount! Works brilliantly on suspension bushes etc.

    SuperPro (Australian) - soft - Looks good (better than PF) Dark Purple in colour. Subtle cabin vibration that does not worsen with AC on. Highly recommend!

    PFV - Never used so can not give an opinion. They look great (right colour ) I may try one in the future....

    Summary

    Poly bushes can be talked about until the cows come home. Bottom line is, everyones preference is different. Vibration to one man is harsh yet to another it's not!
    You need to experiment and see what works for you, but it's important to remember that once you go down the poly route, it will change the way any car feels and even changing oe bushes to poly on the suspension can have an impact, no matter how small, to the rest of the car.
    It's also important to remember that 'Any action has an equal and opposite reaction'. Meaning, if you fit a poly bush and the resulting vibration, that is present in the car before you fitted the poly bush, cannot be absorbed in its entirety, then the remaining vibration will be transmitted elsewhere.
    Last edited by LeeT5; Thursday 27th July 2017 at 10:59.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Just a shame the superpro top engine mount bush (big) is only available as the early style circular bush. I chucked my old circular mount away when I renewed it with the stock later type (bugger). Not seeing aby used ones on eBay either as most have been replaced over the years with the later style. I'll try my local breakers when I next go but they were low on V70/S60/S80 when I was last in.
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
    1999 9-5 Aero (Manual) - Sven

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gold 'N' Brown View Post
    Just a shame the superpro top engine mount bush (big) is only available as the early style circular bush. I chucked my old circular mount away when I renewed it with the stock later type (bugger). Not seeing aby used ones on eBay either as most have been replaced over the years with the later style. I'll try my local breakers when I next go but they were low on V70/S60/S80 when I was last in.
    I bought my round bush off eBay last year for about £20.
    I'm thinking about removing mine and having it vapour blasted to look like brand new. Only costs about £20 for small items.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    Nice one, but I'll give that a miss. No point buying new just to cut out and replace the bush (well, not if I can actually find a 2nd hand donor mount anyway!). I'll prob bash on with the rest of the bushes mentioned above and leave that till last while I try and source the mount.

    Sorry for sidelining your topic Jon, but hopefully there was some value in it.
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
    1999 9-5 Aero (Manual) - Sven

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    Had 300 mile weekend with the vibs. Could not wait to get the solid strut mounts off and the poly mount inserts in the std mounts (have painted std cleaned Ines w humbrol met 54 - look great to show something here change). As I thought instantly sorted.

    The inserts pull into the std open bush withe the big cover washer and grease. Some proper compliance, but mega firm without being solid (I would not put up with how it was on a racer).

    4 engine poly inserts going in tomorrow (few days off).

    Really starting to appreciate that the car is a good jump chassis wise over the T5 now, even if carrying more lard.
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    Name:  poly insert strut mounts.JPG
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    Think I might use that paint to cover the blue cam and spark plug cover plus the bit at the front with the R on (maybe a winter job).

    Plus done the Engine mount inserts this morning. They are a nice change too. Was expecting a more "Sporty" i.e. choppy ride, but was pleasently surprised that the ride is actually more compliant over ridges and bumps. Another bit done.

    Think enough fiddly for now. Have to concentrate on race cars for a bit!
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