Jon's New V70R

[jellison]

Lee, did I here you track your R? Brands (if you are in Kent?).

[LeeT5]

Lee, did I here you track your R? Brands (if you are in Kent?).

I've never tracked my car.

[jellison]

Got the Box of Brembo stuff a few days back. Fitted the front yesterday (easy job, bar one pad need a good bit of grinding to slide into the caliper (~1mm off each end!).

Will get to the back (disc pads and handbrake pads) over the next week or so as time allows (too many cars - all need something - endless).

It now brake how I thought it should, (it was utter crap when I bought it - the disc's down as an advisory on last service (less than 100 before I bought it - Volvo), which is nuts - they should have said they are ready for the BIN, you really must be doing those now. Anyway I'm sure he X'd drilled stuff and Brembo pads (same as an Evo 9/10) will be better. It stops now!

[LeeT5]

Got the Box of Brembo stuff a few days back. Fitted the front yesterday (easy job, bar one pad need a good bit of grinding to slide into the caliper (~1mm off each end!).

Will get to the back (disc pads and handbrake pads) over the next week or so as time allows (too many cars - all need something - endless).

It now brake how I thought it should, (it was utter crap when I bought it - the disc's down as an advisory on last service (less than 100 before I bought it - Volvo), which is nuts - they should have said they are ready for the BIN, you really must be doing those now. Anyway I'm sure he X'd drilled stuff and Brembo pads (same as an Evo 9/10) will be better. It stops now!

That's because the caliper that those pads are fitted with has the dreaded alloy corrosion and expansion issue.
I had to replace three of my calipers after they were all suffering the same fate.

Basically, the stainless steel plate that is the guide for the pads, is held in by a single Torques screw (x25 I think).
Having stainless steel and bare alloy (in the thread hole) causes galvanic corrosion and it causes the hole to close up and expand the alloy, lifting the stainless steel plate off the surface, this in turn makes the pads very difficult to refit, especially when new.
Grinding paint and a little bit of metal of the end of the pad will allow you to fit but will result in the pad not sitting in the correct position in relation to the disc surface. This will, in a short space of time result in pad/disc squeal that does not go away even after applying brake pad grease to the rear of the pads.
Over time, this can also cause the pads to bind and not wear evenly and correctly on both sides, resulting in premature failure and early replacement of the pads.

Removing the pads at every service and thoroughly cleaning all the brake dust off the caliper slides and caliper body will help but the only way to cure the issue is to replace the caliper.

I've got one more rear caliper to replace due to this issue and it's the one that is constantly noisy under light braking (the one remaining caliper thats not been replaced). On the last service I removed the pads and they were an absolute pig to get out.

I wouldn't advise trying to remove the screw and plate with the aim of cleaning or filing away the bare exposed alloy corrosion as you'll cause the hole to crumble and the screw will never go back in and you won't be able to secure the plate, rendering the caliper U/S.