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Thread: Jon's New V70R

  1. #321
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    The DSG gearboxes (not sure if your friends has one of these) make the cars so much faster. It's like +100 hp difference ehehehehe

    V70 2.4T5 M66 Summum

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    Been a while.

    Quick update.

    Don't Buy an V70R.

    Since last post.

    1. Mid summer sometime, towing car to Anglesey for a race, once there, go out for the evening to Holyhead (Christ what a place - like I imagine the really pikey parts of Ireland must be like, sooo run down, what a total dump. Was imagining horse to be running down the streets). Anyway though I'd show my mate (started racing with me this year - loves it) how the R went. Wound it out on one of the big dual carriage ways over there, all fine till, Boom at about 120+ in top. God know what it was, felt like a rod through the side! Engine still running, eased into it and seem out and got to Holyhead. Seemed ok on the way back, but on starting it the following morning had the Engine light and Warning - Reduced power modes engaged (or something similar)! Great had to drive it very carefully back all the way to Woking. It actually went fine, but did not go above about 3500revs all the way.

    Called Shem, bring it up. Long drive up on cruise control. After pulling lots of pipes off and plugging in his diagnostics, could not find anything obviously amiss, so reset everything and all fine since. All he could think of was that it had experienced some odd overboost spike (maybe as a result of crap fuel). I had for the first time since he'd work his magic about 6 months early put 95 octane in it while towing (as so damn far to Angelsey and most would just be on cruise at 70mph), and had not put foot into it and rev'd it out (without the trailer and racecar on the back). So me thinks, once these are mapped (and even if not, as the book says) - ALWAYS USE the best / 99 octane fuel. Been totally fine / normal since.

    2. As the Tailgate open thing still haunting me, (had replaced the lock - 130 waste of time), so got the next most likely (as the wires round hinge had had a dodgy repair before which I'd done a temporary fix on), a new Tailgate loom (~165!), so while at Shems we both fitted this fully expecting it to fix it. Er no. Was Ok, for about 10 miles then just the same.......... Eventually after a run to LeeT5 (thanks Lee), we agreed this one had to be a Volvo job and should book in for the cheapest service they do, (apparently they do an update of the cars brains (but must tell them not to do the ECU)).

    They after me telling that it was not the lock and the loom, said, we think it is the lock, we will get another in and if not that, won't charge for it, of course was not that! So they then started from scratch, eventually found a bad earth in the heated windscreen (not uncommon from a google now), seem as the tailgate is all fiberglass. They had to run an earth wire from this out of the tailgate all the way back down into the boot to find some real metal! Tailgate issue Fixed! Massive expense for something all in for something that no one needs (your tailgate is open - WHEN IT IS NOT!). Pointless electric crap.

    3. Was also in at Volvo for the alarm going off radomnly. Got so bad with going off in the night and neighbours moaning, that I just pull the siren out. The flashing of 4 flasher would still happen, so then had to just disconnect the battery and leave the thing unlocked - who'd want to nick it!! I had ordered a new siren at this point. The Earth was at the base of this too, even though the Tailgate open had been there for the best part of a year, Alarm ting only a month or so before fixed. Warning Alarm service Required still there but went away when I plugged the new Siren in. So I now have a perfectly good Siren (though believe the batteries do eventually fail on them and they burst crap all over the little board in there and they go bad), as well as a perfectly good boot lock....

    4. Sunroof stopped working and was booked in for this to be looked at when at Volvo, started working on the way there and not been an issue since! maybe 6 weeks ago......!

    5. The Rad fans being on all the time (see early posts on this), when it looked like the reason for this was top up the AC system and all good. This was done in the Spring and all was good. Had bought a module with the temp sensor in (not sure what is called but 130 one quid for another bit not needed). Issue recurred about a year ago, back to Volvo, they said likely AC leak, filled and all fine. So back to the proper AC people that had done before they did a more detailed check with dye and there was a leak (luckily this time) just in two of the unions connecting condenser, luckily just O rings and all spot on and leak checked post doing. AC, now good and Rad fan back to normal.

    6. You'd think that would be the end of this Living breathing Nightmare (only one issue since I've had this thing for 2.5+ years now has been non-electrical (the above O rings in the AC / Rad system). I'd started just not using the thing once I'd got the wife an Audi S3 (from mate with the S4 above) and been using that for the 50 mile round trip to work for last 3 months, and only using this electrical abomination for towing duties. Thought it would make a change to give it a run to work today and finally gotten the dreaded Chassis Setting Service Required. So gonna have to go down that Rabbit Hole with the 4C system. It defaults to soft setting and is locked there now. Had started running it on Sport after liking the much firmer S3 (R felt too soft in Soft after driving that for a while, have in Sport for normal driving bar on M-ways) or towing (firm the whole setup up). More Vida

    Only real way to go with these things (to not have electrical issues) is just not drive them. They be great without the TERRIBLE electrics.

    Mind boggling how much spent on this thing in those 2.5 years (and as above almost all electrical, even AC O ring thing electrical really).

    Oh and even with it sorted with 321bhp and 367f/llbs (a big bump over std (as they do not have the 295 and 295 bhp/ft/lbs advertised), a 261bhp Audi S3 feel faster (and that is no light weight at over 1400kg). R probably 1750kg+. Power to weight is very similar, but R (with power it has now (they do not make 370bhp with a remap and a catback as gets adverstised alot on US Youtube videos)) just feel sluggish compared to the bone stock S3 (both on V Power as the manuals in both say).

    Keep thinking should I get the S3 mapped (they go to an easy 310-320 just with that and no catback (sound well fruity as std)), but can't be arsed, as its such a weapon as is.

    Only good thing about the car, is non-of these issue have ever had the car stranded by the side of the road.

    That is not to say it has not been stranded (not sure I mentioned about a year ago the top fell off one of the new RS plugs that were fitted at Tim's when had the head shimmed). That was a trailer it home job and me pulling all the coil packs off and plugs out to find. Went back to the std plugs Volvo recommended. But at least this was not a Volvo issue (just a duff plug - kept the other 4 RS's as spares along with one coil pack (both in glove box just in case) from when I replaced all of those early in having the thing.
    PH > https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp? I memberId=7660
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  3. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellison View Post
    Been a while.

    Quick update.

    Don't Buy an V70R.

    Since last post.

    1. Mid summer sometime, towing car to Anglesey for a race, once there, go out for the evening to Holyhead (Christ what a place - like I imagine the really pikey parts of Ireland must be like, sooo run down, what a total dump. Was imagining horse to be running down the streets). Anyway though I'd show my mate (started racing with me this year - loves it) how the R went. Wound it out on one of the big dual carriage ways over there, all fine till, Boom at about 120+ in top. God know what it was, felt like a rod through the side! Engine still running, eased into it and seem out and got to Holyhead. Seemed ok on the way back, but on starting it the following morning had the Engine light and Warning - Reduced power modes engaged (or something similar)! Great had to drive it very carefully back all the way to Woking. It actually went fine, but did not go above about 3500revs all the way.

    Called Shem, bring it up. Long drive up on cruise control. After pulling lots of pipes off and plugging in his diagnostics, could not find anything obviously amiss, so reset everything and all fine since. All he could think of was that it had experienced some odd overboost spike (maybe as a result of crap fuel). I had for the first time since he'd work his magic about 6 months early put 95 octane in it while towing (as so damn far to Angelsey and most would just be on cruise at 70mph), and had not put foot into it and rev'd it out (without the trailer and racecar on the back). So me thinks, once these are mapped (and even if not, as the book says) - ALWAYS USE the best / 99 octane fuel. Been totally fine / normal since.

    2. As the Tailgate open thing still haunting me, (had replaced the lock - 130 waste of time), so got the next most likely (as the wires round hinge had had a dodgy repair before which I'd done a temporary fix on), a new Tailgate loom (~165!), so while at Shems we both fitted this fully expecting it to fix it. Er no. Was Ok, for about 10 miles then just the same.......... Eventually after a run to LeeT5 (thanks Lee), we agreed this one had to be a Volvo job and should book in for the cheapest service they do, (apparently they do an update of the cars brains (but must tell them not to do the ECU)).

    They after me telling that it was not the lock and the loom, said, we think it is the lock, we will get another in and if not that, won't charge for it, of course was not that! So they then started from scratch, eventually found a bad earth in the heated windscreen (not uncommon from a google now), seem as the tailgate is all fiberglass. They had to run an earth wire from this out of the tailgate all the way back down into the boot to find some real metal! Tailgate issue Fixed! Massive expense for something all in for something that no one needs (your tailgate is open - WHEN IT IS NOT!). Pointless electric crap.

    3. Was also in at Volvo for the alarm going off radomnly. Got so bad with going off in the night and neighbours moaning, that I just pull the siren out. The flashing of 4 flasher would still happen, so then had to just disconnect the battery and leave the thing unlocked - who'd want to nick it!! I had ordered a new siren at this point. The Earth was at the base of this too, even though the Tailgate open had been there for the best part of a year, Alarm ting only a month or so before fixed. Warning Alarm service Required still there but went away when I plugged the new Siren in. So I now have a perfectly good Siren (though believe the batteries do eventually fail on them and they burst crap all over the little board in there and they go bad), as well as a perfectly good boot lock....

    4. Sunroof stopped working and was booked in for this to be looked at when at Volvo, started working on the way there and not been an issue since! maybe 6 weeks ago......!

    5. The Rad fans being on all the time (see early posts on this), when it looked like the reason for this was top up the AC system and all good. This was done in the Spring and all was good. Had bought a module with the temp sensor in (not sure what is called but 130 one quid for another bit not needed). Issue recurred about a year ago, back to Volvo, they said likely AC leak, filled and all fine. So back to the proper AC people that had done before they did a more detailed check with dye and there was a leak (luckily this time) just in two of the unions connecting condenser, luckily just O rings and all spot on and leak checked post doing. AC, now good and Rad fan back to normal.

    6. You'd think that would be the end of this Living breathing Nightmare (only one issue since I've had this thing for 2.5+ years now has been non-electrical (the above O rings in the AC / Rad system). I'd started just not using the thing once I'd got the wife an Audi S3 (from mate with the S4 above) and been using that for the 50 mile round trip to work for last 3 months, and only using this electrical abomination for towing duties. Thought it would make a change to give it a run to work today and finally gotten the dreaded Chassis Setting Service Required. So gonna have to go down that Rabbit Hole with the 4C system. It defaults to soft setting and is locked there now. Had started running it on Sport after liking the much firmer S3 (R felt too soft in Soft after driving that for a while, have in Sport for normal driving bar on M-ways) or towing (firm the whole setup up). More Vida

    Only real way to go with these things (to not have electrical issues) is just not drive them. They be great without the TERRIBLE electrics.

    Mind boggling how much spent on this thing in those 2.5 years (and as above almost all electrical, even AC O ring thing electrical really).

    Oh and even with it sorted with 321bhp and 367f/llbs (a big bump over std (as they do not have the 295 and 295 bhp/ft/lbs advertised), a 261bhp Audi S3 feel faster (and that is no light weight at over 1400kg). R probably 1750kg+. Power to weight is very similar, but R (with power it has now (they do not make 370bhp with a remap and a catback as gets adverstised alot on US Youtube videos)) just feel sluggish compared to the bone stock S3 (both on V Power as the manuals in both say).

    Keep thinking should I get the S3 mapped (they go to an easy 310-320 just with that and no catback (sound well fruity as std)), but can't be arsed, as its such a weapon as is.

    Only good thing about the car, is non-of these issue have ever had the car stranded by the side of the road.

    That is not to say it has not been stranded (not sure I mentioned about a year ago the top fell off one of the new RS plugs that were fitted at Tim's when had the head shimmed). That was a trailer it home job and me pulling all the coil packs off and plugs out to find. Went back to the std plugs Volvo recommended. But at least this was not a Volvo issue (just a duff plug - kept the other 4 RS's as spares along with one coil pack (both in glove box just in case) from when I replaced all of those early in having the thing.
    I think you're being a bit harsh mate.

    To be fair, in your 2.5 years of ownership with a second hand car you've had a broken spark plug that was not really the cars fault as you weren't using OEM plugs.....and dare I say it, was the car filled with 95RON (I do know you have used 95 before - never a good idea when the car is mapped to run on 99)? You should rephrase your statement to read...'ALWAYS USE 99RON in a car thats mapped to run 99. Never fill with 95RON fuel'. You actually won't save money by using 95RON on your journeys because the knock sensors will retard/advance ignition accordingly when they detect pre ignition or pinking. This is more prevalent in Turbo charged cars due to the increased cylinder temperatures further exacerbated by towing! The result will be less power output meaning your right foot travels closer to the carpet to meet the intended level of driving, resulting in an increase in fuel consumption because the target boost needs to be met at a given load.
    So, you cruising to Holyhead at 60mph, legal limit when towing (was 70mph a typo??), towing a trailer and car, you'd have saved money or broke even by just filling up with the correct fuel in the first place, without risking damage to the engine in the process.
    Running 95 in a mapped car will cause the cylinder temperatures to sky rocket and long term can burn out the electrode tips on spark plugs, cause pitting OR melt piston crowns, burn out valves and damage piston rings. Can also contribute to liners cracking.
    You don't have to be ragging it for this to happen....towing a heavy trailer with a car on it will do just fine and easily create the perfect circumstances.
    A sunroof that stopped working then started again and hasn't been faulty since?
    A bad earth wire on the rear tailgate. That was a hard nut to crack but ultimately was still only a bad earth!
    The Siren fault (ECM0004) is a very common failure on all P2 Volvo's and the normal thing to do is replace the Alarm module. If you didn't do that and just cleaned an earth (which would have been cleaned when replacing the module anyway) then you'll likely to continue having Alarm issues in the future. I would have just fitted the new Alarm module and be done with it.
    A/C leak caused by a couple of 50p 'O' rings!!! I'd say that's a bloody good result as it could so easily have been a condenser, CCM control module or worse still a knackered compressor!

    The Alarm Module, Thermostat housing and tailgate lock will all sell very easily on Ebay at the right price, so you should get most of your money back, especially if in the OEM boxes, no not really a big deal there either.

    I have to say, all things considered, you've had a pretty easy run of it.

    You haven't had AWD failure caused by a failing DEM......2026!...or AWD failure caused by the sleeve failing....700!....or AWD failure caused by the DEM pump failing.....500!
    You haven't had boost issues caused by a split IC....300 (OEM), charging system failure caused by a failing Alternator...500, front suspension failure caused by a broken spring....554 (Two springs, bellows, spring seats, labour and SUM calibration)
    You haven't had a failed starter motor...385.20
    Despite your 'minor' issues you've had so far, trust me when I say, it could of been a whole lot worse!


    We've spoken about your current issue. Check out the things I said and get back to me.

    2004 V70R 6spd manual:: Custom JRtuning REMAP @ peak 21psi :: Custom 2.75" exhaust :: TTV SMF + 07 Clutch :: WG 5.0 psi :: Tints :: IPD R gauge Rev.3 :: CFWerks door pod :: Forge CBV + yellow spring :: Windowed stock housing + blue filter :: Powerflex :: Superpro Engine mount :: Brembo Dot 5.1 :: TW FMIC :: Eibach 5mm spacers :: Brembo 330mm drilled discs :: iMiV 'Classic'+ BT :: D2R XENARC 5500k + LED H7 + LED H3 :: VolvoTech CFE OBD-V1 :: See garage for full mod list

  4. #324
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    Hi Lee.

    when you put it like that, yep it is a reliable car....

    I do seem to be just waiting for the next electrical issue though.

    Anyway, started it up to come home from work tonight, all fine.... Ran like clockwork.

    Hopefully a one off, had parked it on a vert steep hill for last week or so!?

    Some of those prices you mention do sound nuts though. Must be able to get an alternator for less that 500 quid.

    I forgot to mention remarking sensors packed up as one now duff. Obviously and easy fix, but not if you have a tow bar to remove just to then remove the bumper (end up being a big job just for something to tell you how close to a wall you are!). Just another pointless thing on modern cars to fail.

    Good to know car is actually super reliable

    I do think all that stuff you recommended changing ever fluid on the whole car when I bought it must be keeping some nasty bigger issues at bar though.

    Mind you have put alot more miles on yours (maybe have those nasty things waiting for me), think it has still only done less than 115k or something. Lots of long towing duties ahead, with low stress towing duties should not over stress it. Yes, I obviously have never towed at over 60mph.
    PH > https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/profile.asp? I memberId=7660
    Vids > https://www.youtube.com/user/MaximumAttack575/videos

  5. #325
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    Keeping it looking stock
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    And remember it's a 14 year old car .
    The tailgate / alarm issues could be linked as part of the heated grid is also used as a break glass sensor.
    The sunroof and Siren is probably linked together common issue if siren batteries fail sunroof stops as Module is short-circuited due to the battery fault.
    Also not being NoRmal is nice

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