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  1. #21
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    I'm more of a hammer and welder type of guy than a capacitor & coding type, so I'm interested to see how this turns out too!

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 245TurboT5 View Post
    Well, having talked to some Swedes who have done the 6 speed conversion by cutting and welding the bellhousing it emerges that many who do it find problems. One guy told me he had a 0.013" misalignment that destroyed his transmission!

    Since I don't have machine shop facilities I have been persuaded that an adapter plate is way to go. Hopefully I can avoid the pitfalls of super heavy flywheels, etc. with a clutch arm pivot extension. Either way, it'll be an interesting project in itself, and will be fully documented.
    Oh dear, that's not a lot of tolerance at all
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Forged rods, VXR injectors, 19T, Ostrich 2.0, cold air con. Follow the project here
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - The daily, resisting the urge to modify

  3. #23
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    That's why I think I'm going to go the adapter plate route. At least that way you know it's flat, and if you do break a gearbox you can replace it with another stock one.
    The gearbox uses a traditional syle slave cylinder and clutch arm so my initial thoughts are that, with a 10mm adapter plate, I can leave the flywheel in it's stock position and space out the clutch arm by a few mm (law of levers, and all that). Of course, it all depends on how well the clutch splines engage and, if they don't satisfactorily, what the maximum I can space the flywheel out is and have the starter still engage properly. There will be some wiggle room there, as the starter gear is always much wider than the ring gear.

    These are just first thoughts, though. I'm sure the plan will have to change many times before I get this finished. In the mean time I'll get the sump finished, join the engine and 'box on any bolts that line up with a 10mm spacer inbetween, and get it in the car so I can at least get the mounts made and all those jobs done that don't cost much but take up so much time whilst I'm saving my pennies for a clutch.

    I'll also be able to make a start on the adapter if I get stuck on any jobs due to the M56 casing that Dangerous Dave very kindly donated to me. Thanks Dave, I really appreciate it.

  4. #24
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    Bit of progress lately as I got to spend two afternoons in the man-cave. 

    I used two oil pick-up tubes to make one longer one, and also removed the 11 degree slant from it. The metal plate covering the crankcase is there to prevent weld spatter dropping into the crankcase. 



    Then I welded a few more bits in to make a sump







    It is baffled internally, but I don't seem to have uploaded that pic yet. 



    Then I started on this bit:





    First, I had to make the collector





    Then, I got started on the bendy bits. It's surprisingly difficult to fit 5x48mm pipes into a space and still leave room for a servo/master cylinder, steering column and engine mount! Photos are of the progress so far. Won't get another chance to work on it for another week, now. 









    And lastly, I stuck the stock 16t on top of the Holset for a quick size comparison:


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    claymore (Saturday 9th September 2017),petrolh34d (Thursday 7th September 2017)

  6. #25
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    Got one more primary pipe done today before I ran out of gas. Sorry for the poor picture quality- I took them with my phone.





    Oh, and it's a good idea to plan your welds in advance when building a header. I got carried away finish welding one of the primaries and then couldn't reach 1cm of join on one of the others, so had to cut it off again. 





    Really bloody annoying!

  7. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to 245TurboT5 For This Useful Post:

    claymore (Saturday 9th September 2017),Dangerous Dave (Thursday 7th September 2017),kmb (Thursday 7th September 2017),petrolh34d (Wednesday 15th November 2017),Ric@rdo (Thursday 7th September 2017),Sweep (Saturday 18th November 2017)

  8. #26
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    After getting some more gas I got to spend two hours on it today and got the fourth primary made up (#3 cylinder). As the amount of available space gets used up it gets a lot trickier to make things fit. This pic show the primary just after I welded it up. This is nine of the 11 sections it took to make this pipe!



    And then it got welded in place.











    Just the last one to go (#1 cylinder) and it's done, with the exception of the external wastegate, which I will do once the engine's in the car. No, it's not a pretty stainless steel one, but it's far less likely to crack and cost far, far less.

  9. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to 245TurboT5 For This Useful Post:

    claymore (Saturday 9th September 2017),Dangerous Dave (Friday 8th September 2017),martin_r_smith (Friday 8th September 2017)

  10. #27
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    My god its almost as big as the engine
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Forged rods, VXR injectors, 19T, Ostrich 2.0, cold air con. Follow the project here
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - The daily, resisting the urge to modify

  11. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    My god its almost as big as the engine
    If you want to make reliable power you don't want to be poncing about with anything that starts with TD04! That turbo is good for 550bhp (not that I'm going to try to make that much) and will run forever. I just wish we could get E85 here.

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  13. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 245TurboT5 View Post
    Bit of progress lately as I got to spend two afternoons in the man-cave.

    I used two oil pick-up tubes to make one longer one, and also removed the 11 degree slant from it. The metal plate covering the crankcase is there to prevent weld spatter dropping into the crankcase.



    Then I welded a few more bits in to make a sump







    It is baffled internally, but I don't seem to have uploaded that pic yet.



    Then I started on this bit:





    First, I had to make the collector





    Then, I got started on the bendy bits. It's surprisingly difficult to fit 5x48mm pipes into a space and still leave room for a servo/master cylinder, steering column and engine mount! Photos are of the progress so far. Won't get another chance to work on it for another week, now.









    And lastly, I stuck the stock 16t on top of the Holset for a quick size comparison:

    You've got a lot more room to work with than us fwd lads.
    PIC][/SIGPIC]
    aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
    aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaa

    Facebook^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Old T-5 Kompressor Thread^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ New TT-10 Kompressor Thread

  14. #30
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    Definitely, the 240's engine bay is pretty cavernous

  15. #31
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    So, I got the header finished apart from the external waste gate.





    And I splashed out some major dosh on a 12cm2 externally gated turbine housing so the damned thing will spool




  16. #32
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    .... and then I lost my mojo a bit. This was mainly down to the whole transmission issue- the cut and shut issue, to be precise. Something about it had been bothering me. I put a post on Facebook asking if anyone had a V8 for sale for cheap (my first love has always been the sound and torque of a V8). 



    Almost instantly a friend offered me a deal I couldn't refuse. Now, with this particular engine there is a known issue in that it will not work in an engine transplant situation due to the canbus and the auto gearbox throwing a wobbler when it can't talk to the body control, traction control, as, etc. & consequently the engine won't crank, let alone fire. Half of this problem can be cured by using a manual gearbox, but this engine has never been sold with one. 

    As a consequence this engine has been largely overlooked by hot riddles, which is a shame. However, after literally an hour's ceaseless searching I have found a cure. A manual transmission that bolts straight on and that should manage the torque of the V8 with no problems as it's mechanically the same as the BMW one I was going to use to  utilise and shut. It requires a custom flywheel, but that is relatively inexpensive from companies such as TTV Racing. 



    So, the new direction  is a V8. Anyone want to buy a load of T5 stuff? 

  17. #33
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    Hint:

    Oh, did I mention it's supercharged?

  18. #34
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    Ooohhh...

    Much more interesting

    Guessing it's Jag based?

  19. #35
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    Yeah, 4.0 XJR. 370bhp stock.

    Mine will be cat-less, have a decent flowing exhaust, upgraded charge cooler or possibly even go intercooler since I have this beastie hanging from the roof of the man-cave:



    There's also the more aggressive mapping you get from a standalone tune plus the eventual supercharger pulleys upgrade. 400+bhp is easily achieved with stock reliability.

  20. #36
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    Nice.

    Nearly bought an XJR years ago for a good price.
    One of my biggest automotive regrets is not buying it. At the same time, I know I'd be homeless now if I did, as the repair bills when it enevitably went wrong would have crippled me.

    The noise though...

  21. #37
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    I'll be doing the timing chains and Tensioners whilst I've got it on the engine stand.

  22. #38
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    Very good shout

    Could be worse, could be an Audi.
    Their chain setups look mental

  23. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doingitsideways View Post
    Very good shout

    Could be worse, could be an Audi.
    Their chain setups look mental
    Yeah, the Audi one does indeed look mental!

    Mind you, it's only three chains compared to the Jag's four!

  24. #40
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    You're not wrong there
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Forged rods, VXR injectors, 19T, Ostrich 2.0, cold air con. Follow the project here
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - The daily, resisting the urge to modify


 

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