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  1. #21
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    Thanks for your advise Lee!
    The sound travels on the metal so its pretty challenging to find the source.
    I haven't had a chance to crawl under the car but found the exhaust bracket in the garage. Noticed it has a bent portion at the rear side. Similar to V70-R-T5's bracket on the picture below.

    V70-R-T5's picture:


    TBH I haven't paid any attention to this detail when I took it off more than a year ago. So it seems got a hit by the PO at some stage.
    Based on that I'll dig out the center resonator from the big pile of stuff in the garage to inspect if that has any sign of hit or scratch marks.

    Also it seems the propshaft needs to be off from the car to be able to properly investigate.

    To take it off and re-assemble it, do I need to buy the new bolts or the old ones can be re-used?
    Last edited by htomi; Friday 28th April 2017 at 08:56.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

  2. #22
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    I think you're misunderstanding my meaning. I'm not talking about the bracket shown in the photo above (which has been clearly damaged by an object on the road/low ground clearance) I'm talking the propshaft touching the Exhaust!

    Nothing has to be removed, you can clearly see if there's any contact by looking under the car at the propshaft. If it has a scratch mark on it going the whole circumference, then it's making contact with the exhaust. They do get really close to one another at the front section of prop. Easier to see with the car in the air, which is why I suggested going to an exhaust center!
    If it IS making contact (visible evidence) then they can adjust the exhaust at the same time with the car in the air.

    To be clear....You do NOT need to remove the prop to investigate this!

    If you grab hold of the prop, close to the centre support bearing and move it from side to side, it may hit the exhaust. If it does, then that's your noise!
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    htomi (Friday 28th April 2017)

  4. #23
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    Thanks again Lee!

    We (me and my mechanic buddy) will check this accordingly and see it from there. I have another buddy with a garage and lift to check this.
    As far as I remember from the last time when my car was on the lift in the same garage, there was plenty of clearance between the exhaust and the propshaft, front, rear and center wise.

    "If you grab hold of the prop, close to the centre support bearing and move it from side to side, it may hit the exhaust. If it does, then that's your noise!"
    According to the above from your post, would you know what amount of movement/play should be considered normal?

    Again as mentioned in my previous post, the bracket what came off from my car has sign of a damage from an object on the road/low clearance.
    I want to make sure the center bearing is in reasonably proper condition (minus the age).

    Also as said earlier, I did not have this noise for months and it started last weekend after a longer journey on the countryside and got worse during this week.
    To be honest (and as I'm now thinking back to that journey) at some stage I made a Y turn on an uneven surface - close to pier/dock and heard a scraping noise for a second or two as the bottom of the car had made contact with concrete surface.
    For a moment I was thinking - ohh sh$t but completely forgot this as haven't heard any strange noise after that, plus during the turn I was driving very-very slowly anyway.
    So long story short, I can see a chance now, that the exhaust was pushed up and the clearance is changed.
    (Fingers crossed that's being the issue and nothing else!)


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    My battery died on me past weekend.
    Ordered a new Varta from Tayna batteries.
    https://www.tayna.co.uk/Type-019-Var...ery-P3127.html
    Price inc shipping was cheaper then Irish online stores, also to mention finding Varta locally is a mission impossible.
    Package on its way now.

    Propshaft check is scheduled for next weekend together with standard service.
    I wasn't able to source my usual Valvoline oil, so this time I'm going to go with PETRONAS Syntium 7000 0W-40
    https://www.pli-petronas.com/uk/petr...s/syntium-7000

    Volvo oil filter, 5 new volvo spark plugs, 5 new Bosch ignition coils and cleaned Jetex filter waiting to go to celebrate 100k miles on the clock.
    Last edited by htomi; Tuesday 2nd May 2017 at 15:06.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Service completed yesterday.

    • Type 019 Varta Silver Dynamic Battery installed
    • 5 new Volvo Spark Plugs #30751806
    • 5 new Bosh Ignition Coils - BOS-0221604010 (factory # 30713417)
    • Engine Oil filter and rubber gasket #1275811
    • PETRONAS Syntium 7000 0W-40 oil



    The Jetex filter was treated with Jetex Filter Cleaner a week ago and then lightly sprayed with Jetex Filter Oil.
    http://www.jetex.co.uk/cleaning-parts/

    I was so tempted to leave the airbox cover off, to hear nice sound once the air is sucked through the filter, but I let the idea go at the end.

    Ray, my mechanic checked the prop shaft. He could not find any visible marks regarding the exhaust touching the shaft.
    The shaft had no side movement = passenger side to driver side, however the front joint has a noticeable play and a metal on metal 'click' noise is coming from it once rotated.
    Rear joint is fine.
    According to him, the shaft needs to be taken off, each joint properly inspected while out and see the next steps from there.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by htomi View Post

    • PETRONAS Syntium 7000 0W-40 oil



    The Jetex filter was treated with Jetex Filter Cleaner a week ago and then lightly sprayed with Jetex Filter Oil.

    Ray, my mechanic checked the prop shaft. He could not find any visible marks regarding the exhaust touching the shaft.
    The shaft had no side movement = passenger side to driver side, however the front joint has a noticeable play and a metal on metal 'click' noise is coming from it once rotated.
    Rear joint is fine.
    According to him, the shaft needs to be taken off, each joint properly inspected while out and see the next steps from there.
    Nice oil but don't you think 0W40 is a little thin? Why not go for the 5W40?

    Your better off leaving the filter dry mate, otherwise the oil residue, no matter how thinly applied, will be drawn through onto the MAF and will contaminate it. Unless your living in a desert, Oil on filters is not nessesary.

    Regards the shaft, when Ray removes the prop and removes the end cap from the CV, he'll find the grease is dried up and hard and the bearings will be loose and slapping around in the bearing cage. That's what the noise is.

    Clean it all out and repack with high melting point Lithium grease (not standard CV grease) and reassemble. That will sort the problem.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  8. #27
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    Thanks Lee!

    Previous 3 times I used the Valvoline SynPower 0W-40 without any issues. TBH I was thinking to get a 5W-30 for a change, however only 1x5L bottle was available - which isn't enough.
    The sales person couldn't confirm when the next batch will arrive, so decided to stick to the 0W-40. Will see how this performs vs the Valvoline.

    AFAIK the layer of oil applied on to the cotton element of the oiled filter is to trap any stray contaminants. Yes, there is danger if the filter is over oiled it could lead to false MAF readings or worst case a faulty MAF as in this case too much oil will be drawn trough which will contaminate the hot wire over its limit.
    Most hot wire sensors have a burn off cycle, when the wire will be heated to a very high temperature to burn off contamination.

    I'll pass the information you gave regarding to the CV joint.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Celebrated 100k miles on the road to the North West 200.

    Name:  100k.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  183.5 KB


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    This came with the post today

    Code: SVV0810-4C-CLG





    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Wednesday, my R left me at the side of the road.

    It suddenly stalled and lost al power, then it seemed to misfire for 10 more meters and finally the engine 'died'.
    No error message was on the DIM.

    DTCs indicated the PEM and the pump (which is 1.5 year old), however after replacing the PEM (luckily had one lying around) still haven't had any luck with the start.
    After 5 mins swearing and thinking about what else could be the culprit, luckily found the cabin fuse 33 was blown.
    Fuse replaced, then the car immediately started... let the car idle for 5 mins, then ignition off.
    Old PEM re-connected, re-start, still working fine.... and since that day no issues everything just working fine.

    Obviously, blown fuse its no good as something triggered the issue.

    So here is the list of parts & other 'good to know things'
    1. 1.5 year old Skandix fuel pump
    2. 1.5 year old Fuel pressure sensor
    3. Original PEM, still located under the car - no signs of corrosion on the connectors/pins
    4. No previous signs of issues
    5. No DCTs stored prior the incident - all green for the past 6 months.
    6. At time of the incident ∼60L of petrol was in the tank. So nearly full.
    7. The car never ran out of fuel under my ownership, always do full fill ups and do it once the yellow light comes up when it still has roughly 10L petrol in the tank.
    10. I stil have the old/original pump in my garage. While the old unit was still working, decided to replace as a preventative maintenance, due to the pump duty cycle was little higher than 40% + its a know failure point for the R.


    DCTs logged after incident
    'ECM 2120 Fuel Pump control module signal too low' and 'CEM 3A03 Fuel pump (FP) signal missing' (which could be due to the blown fuse)

    Plan:
    1. Remove the old PEM and open it to see if there is any sign of corrosion etc inside on the board.
    2. Once the PEM checks out, then move to the pump and put back the old one and see if it still blows the fuse.
    3. If still blowing the fuse, then check wiring from CEM->PEM and PEM->PUMP


    Description of the: ECM-2120 Fuel pump control module. Signal too low

    Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information ECM-2120

    Condition
    The engine control module (ECM) controls the fuel pressure via the fuel pump (FP) control module using a pulse width modulation (PWM) signal.
    The fuel pump (FP) control module then controls the fuel pump (FP) depending on the pressure requested by the engine control module (ECM).
    Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-2120 is stored if the pulse width modulation (PWM) signal between the engine control module (ECM) and the fuel pump (FP) control module is too high, too low or there is no signal.
    For information about fuel pressure regulation, see VIDA Design and Function.

    Substitute value
    None.
    Possible source
    Damaged cable for power supply to fuel pump control module.
    Damaged ground connection to the fuel pump control module and fuel pump.
    Contact resistance, oxidation or poor contact in connectors or connections.
    Signal cable between the engine control module (ECM) and fuel pump control module short-circuited to voltage or ground.
    Open circuit on signal cable between the engine control module (ECM) and fuel pump control module.
    Cable between fuel pump control module and fuel pump short-circuited to voltage or ground.
    Open circuit on cable between fuel pump control module and fuel pump.
    Damaged fuel pump.
    Damaged fuel pump (FP) control module.

    Fault symptom[s]
    Driving/Poor performance/lacks power/At take off
    Driving/Poor performance/lacks power
    Driving/Hesitates/surges/Unsure when/at all times
    Driving/Hesitates/surges/During acceleration
    Driving/Hesitates/surges/During deceleration
    Driving/Engine stalls/Unsure when/at all times
    Idling/Engine stalls/Unsure when/at all times
    Starting/Engine stalls
    Starting/Engine does not start/Engine turns
    Starting/Engine hard to start/cranks slowly/Unsure when/at all times
    Starting/Engine does not start/Unsure when/at all times
    Warning lights and chimes/Malfunction Indicator Light ("Check engine" light) indication/no indication
    Last edited by htomi; Saturday 29th July 2017 at 12:54.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

  13. #31
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    Update.

    Step 1 completed. Old PEM removed and opened. There was some type of white dust covering the board (similar to an oxidation what a leaking battery leaves behind once dried), however no visible sign of any burned parts/diodes etc.
    Connected the spare PEM (which was working previously) and tried to fire up the engine. Fuse 33 was blown immediately.
    Re-connected the old original PEM (which was also working previously) & fuse was blowed again immediately.
    That's where I stopped.

    I didn't touch anything else, just the PEM and the cable connecting to it.
    As far as I see, there is a very good chance the PEM to pump cable is the source of the issue, due to both PEMs were working fine before my actions and the only other part I've touched was the cable.

    Based on the TNN 23-32-2008-04-30 this cable harness is connected to the fuel pump and once relocating the PEM in the trunk it needs to be replaced with a new one.
    Ordered a new cable harness & will move the PEM into the trunk and see it from there - harness p/n: 30798698

    TNN:
    https://www.google.ie/url?sa=t&rct=j...Qmg4IUXWOFCJ2Q


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Update.
    The Skandix pump failed. Seems, one of the pump motor is shot.
    Old pump re-installed.
    PEM ended up again under the car due to the harness p/n: 30798698 doesn't work.
    I know its strange, but the brand new harness won't work with my 2004 R. Plugs are the same.
    Installed a new fuel filter too.

    After digging for a while, I found the following thread on the speed forum:http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...ng-the-harness

    Comparing the 2 cables, the 30798698 does not have the grey plug at the end of the blue cable. Anyways, I'll try to remove the harness and place the PEM under the rear seat as mentioned in that thread.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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  16. #33
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    h....these modern Volvo's glad most of mine are the simple ones....not that iI thought that 7 years ago...

    Current Volvo's 1995 854 Gul T-5R 1996 855 Olive T-5R 1997 855 Olive AWD 1999 V70R AWD and 2005 XC90 D5 AWD
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    and ....

    PEM relocated in the trunk. Used the original cable.
    Jacked up the car, followed the cable from the PEM. Its held by 5 clips. Used a flat headed screwdriver and carefully released all 5 clips. Once it was done, then started pulling back the cable slowly & gently at the pump end. It came up very easily. The whole job took 5 mins. (now I cannot understand the TNN method - e.g. cut the cable...)
    I had to remove aprox 5cm from the electric wire protector at the pump end, then fitted the cables into the existing rubber gasket cable holes. Reinstalled the metal pump cover and started looking for a 'nice and cosy' place for the PEM.
    Due to the cable harness is relatively short, there isn't too much room to play around. Finally I came up with the idea on the picture below.



    plenty of space between the PEM and the cover.



    Once completed everything, hooked up VIDA and erased all previously logged DTCs. Everything is back to green again :-), then, checked the Pump duty cycle which was at surprise-surprise 36%! When this pump came out 1.5 half year ago it was around 40-41%. Looks like the fuel filter was way overdue...
    Last edited by htomi; Monday 7th August 2017 at 20:09.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Quote Originally Posted by MoleT-5R View Post
    h....these modern Volvo's glad most of mine are the simple ones....not that iI thought that 7 years ago...
    Yeah, the devil plays on his instrument to push the black magic into these modern cars....


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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  20. #36
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    I like what you've done but my only concern is heat!

    Those ribs on the PEM alloy casing are to displace heat from air flow across it, hence why it's placed on the outside of the car. I don't think Volvo are stupid and they would have fitted it inside the car if need be.

    It might be an idea to utilise a thermoprobe and take a note of the casing temps?

    You've also trapped the PEM under plywood surrounded by a felt jacket and resting ontop of the carpet above your spare wheel. This will trap heat. If the PEM gets too hot it will not function correctly.

    discuss.

    Otherwise it's a neat idea. I would have cleaned the PEM up though rather than leaving it caked in dirt.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Yes, the heat is a concern too. However:
    1. Based on the TNN TNN 23-32-2008-04-30 mentioned above, the PEM has been relocated at the right end side of the spare tyre well. Moreover, from 2006 onwards the the default location of the PEM is the spare tyre well due to the original location of the PEM led to various issues. (water, corrosion etc)
    2. I placed the PEM at the far end of the trunk floor cover. As you can see there is at least 5 cm space between the top of the PEM and the black cover - over the spare tyre also plenty of space in all directions, plus air flows in the trunk too. (even if its minimal)
    3. Others (sspeed.com), placed the PEM under the rear seat and reported no issues after it's relocation.

    I was in a hurry as the miss wanted to go so, I haven't had a chance to clean the PEM. I'll do that later this week and also tidy up the surrounding area.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Regarding the heat concern what Lee mentioned above. After a 45 mins spirited drive, lifted the trunk floor cover and touched the PEM with my hands, to see how warm it is. The unit was warm-ish, like around body temperature. I haven't had a thermometer, but would guess around 25-30 celsius max.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Today is the day for me to let my R go for sale...
    I had to move on as our family is going to grow within 6 weeks and I needed something else to be my daily driver and same time keeping the overall costs down.
    Also, I won't have more time to spend in the garage and pamper this Viking in the forseeable future.
    This was a tough decision to make as the V70R was my dream car. My heart still goes for the R but my mind tells me to let her go.

    I wish I could keep it in the garage for the next years, but unfortunaltely I cannot.... I'd rather see her on the road owned by someone else than collecting dust in a dark storage.

    Asking price €6000

    About the Car and the services done.

    It's a 2004 V70R 5spd Geartronic, Titanium Gary with Gobi interior on a 05 Irish plate.
    According to the information I have, its one of the 14 Irish car which was ever brought into this country as new.
    Currently it has 103400 Miles on the clock.
    Engine unmodified.
    No tune, no ECU modifications.
    Last service was completed at 100k miles.
    Stamped service history up to 75k (Volvo and private garages)
    From 75k onwards maintained by a private mechanic (Ray) and I have a folder full with receipts, mostly Volvo parts.
    Original sales receipt and the Atacama owners folder included.

    Modifications:
    • do88 Intake pipe
    • do88 Lower Intercooler pipe
    • Forge CBV with green spring
    • Grey Pierburg TCV
    • Bilstein B6 shocks front
    • Center Resonator delete
    • Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit
    • Star Adjuster - Handbrake
    • Carbon wrapped Center Console
    • Parrot Asteriod Mini installed


    Other services completed:
    • Rear passenger side wheel bearing together with the hand brake pads, both sides.
    • Handbrake cable and handbrake mod (star adjusters)
    • Complete front suspension rebuild - Lemforder and original Volvo parts (tie rods, ball joints, control arms, stabiliser, strut bearing etc)
    • Rear toe bars - OEM
    • Lemforder stabiliser rods front and rear
    • Drive shaft seal
    • Angle gear seal & fluid change
    • 3 times gearbox drain and fill, using Valvoline Max Life ATF
    • Rear differential and AOC fluid change
    • Fuel Pump, fuel pressure sensor, fuel pump gaskets and plastic lock units
    • PEM moved into the trunk
    • PCV and one way vacuum line, inc one way valves
    • TCV - first OEM then the grey Pierburg, TCV/vacuum hoses.
    • Upgraded to Jetex Air filter - thanks Lee!, now back to Mann Paper filter
    • Software load/update by Volvo
    • Exhaust trim replacement (cfwerks)
    • Replaced few interior parts which were broken/scratched
    • Leather interior clean and treatment
    • Fuel filter replaced
    • New spark plugs (Volvo)
    • Air quality sensor replaced, Cabin filter replaced, Aircon disinfected.
    • The rest is within my thread or within this forum.


    The good:
    • The car drives well, pulls strong, no issues, no errors stored.
    • Gearbox is fine, gear change is smooth, however I rarely used it in automatic mode.
    • No coolant consumption.
    • Combustion gas test in coolant passed.
    • Rear 4C shocks still holding off fine.
    • 4WD works fine.
    • Brake pads changed aprox 8k miles - all corner, still fine.
    • Eagle F1 AS3s are in good shape plenty of thread left.
    • Aircon works as it should.
    • The past 10 months the car was used mainly on weekends and long distance journeys.




    The not so good:
    It's a 12 years old car, so don't expect and immaculate car.
    • It has few scratches and small dents. The ps side front fender, rear door and smaller dent on the rear bumper.
    • All was there before my ownership started.
    • The PO told me the rear end was re-painted once already due to the 'don't give a damm' type of people in the parking lots and banging the door to another car without noticing it.
    • The 2 dents (fender and door) got there after 2 weeks the re-paint was done, then he gave up.
    • The black paint on the lower intercooler is pealing off, I haven't had a chance to re-paint it.
    • The Gobi leather is in good shape, however it would require a restoration.
    • Pegs are balanced however would require a refurb.
    • Prop shaft would require a check/re-grease.
    • Angle gear collar sleeve hasn't been replaced.
    • 2nd key was destroyed by the PO, He wrapped it with duck tape. Despite its condition, still opens the door and starts the car, but would not dare to use it unless its an emergency.






















    Last edited by htomi; Monday 28th August 2017 at 22:46.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

  25. #40
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    stricky1967's Avatar
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    sorry to hear that, it certainly appears to be a well looked after example, good luck with the sale.

    2003 V70R Titanium/Atacama

  26. The Following User Says Thank You to stricky1967 For This Useful Post:

    htomi (Wednesday 30th August 2017)


 

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