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Thread: htomi's thread

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    htomi's thread

    I was thinking for while if I want to open my own thread or not. Today I decided to give it a shot so here we go:

    My name is Tamas. Living in Ireland near Cork.

    A friend of mine got me into Volvo's, back in 2010. He was an enthusiast, who owned several Volvo's - S70 2.0T, S70 T5, P1 V70 R and 05' V70R GT - before switched over to Porsche.
    So, the time came when I needed a car and he convinced me to get the Swedish brick instead of a fancy German.
    Himself, Ray my good friend and trusted mechanic, and myself, drove to the other side of the country to buy my first Volvo, a 03' S60 2.0T from a dealer with 91k miles on the clock.
    5 years & 100k miles later - still a happy friendship with my daily S60 - two of us again, drove up to the North to check out the only available Irish plate VR for sale, a late 04 GT.

    At this point, I'd like to mention few things:
    1st: I loved my S60, but always wanted a manual P2 VR.
    2nd: Not much of a choice here in Ireland, as R's are very-very rare. Few S60R's were listed however not a single P2 V70 R. I know only 1 besides mine.
    3rd: The alternative way to source an R is to get it from the UK, pay the customs duty, new road worthiness test and so on, in a nutshell going down on that road is PITA.

    So I decided to take look on this GT with 75k miles on the clock and 1 previous owner.
    The body seen better days for sure, few scratches here and there, interior also wasn't perfect, but overall not that bad for a 10 year old car.
    Engine was running fine, everything was working as should.
    I said to myself: now or never.... took the leap and bough the car in May'15.

    The new fRiendship took a bad turn at the 2nd wk of ownership. Heard a loud bang while drove the car on the way home, dash-lights turned into a christmas three, car in limp mode and half of the electrical functions missing. Long story short: the CEM module was toasted. Most likely it was overheated due to the bad design affecting the 03-04s. At the end it had to replaced by the dealership. Luckily I had discount and thanks to my loyalty to the dealership - past 5 years - got a considerable discount on the labour and sw load too. Obviously this incident took out 'some' money from my pocket which was there to put the car back to stage 0 as fast as I can.

    Next, completed the big service in Sep 2015, as I do not trust any stamped history. All fluids, transmission drain and fill, coolant flush, all filters, spark plugs, T-belt, water pump, brake pads and 4 new tyres.
    During this service the garage discovered, wrong spark plugs have been used, t-belt wasn't replaced against the stamped history, nor the water pump.
    So, when I got the car back, it was completely different and better for sure.


    Since then the below have been replaced THANKS to my good friend Raimund (Ray) who helped me a lot!
    He has 25+ years of experience as an ex rally lead/head mechanic and respected rally car builder. (mostly Honda's), so he definitely knows his ways around cars

    • Rear passenger side wheel bearing together with the hand brake pads, both sides.
    • Handbrake cable and handbrake mod (star adjusters)
    • Front shock absorbers - Bilstein B6
    • Complete front suspension rebuild - Lemforder and original Volvo parts (tie rods, ball joints, control arms, stabiliser, strut bearing etc)
    • Rear toe bars - OEM
    • Lemforder stabiliser rods front and rear
    • Drive shaft seal
    • Angle gear seal
    • 3 times gearbox drain and fill, using Valvoline Max Life ATF
    • Fuel Pump, fuel pressure sensor, fuel pump gaskets and plastic lock units
    • PCV and one way vacuum line, inc one way valves
    • TCV - first OEM then the grey Pierburg, TCV/vacuum hoses.
    • Upgraded to Jetex Air filter - thanks Lee!
    • do88 intake and lower intercooler pipes
    • Forge CBV with green spring
    • Software load/update by Volvo
    • Exhaust trim replacement (cfwerks)
    • Center console CF wrap and lid fix
    • Replaced few interior parts which were broken/scratched
    • Leather interior clean and treatment
    • Parrot Asteriod Mini install


    and possibly few more which I cannot recall.

    I'm planning the following jobs to be completed:
    • Coils and spark Plugs at 100k (just passed 99k) and standard service
    • Strut bar Conversion kit upgrade - ordered
    • Propshaft refurb
    • Angle gear collar-sleeve replacement
    • Shimming the block
    • Coolant flush
    • Brake fluid flush, new rotors + pads (front & rear)
    • Bilstein B6 rears
    • 05 center console upgrade - I have it already, need to source brushed aluminium gearbox trim and same cupholder box.
    • Rear windows tint
    • Alloys refurb
    Last edited by htomi; Monday 3rd April 2017 at 11:51.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to htomi For This Useful Post:

    Harvey (Monday 3rd April 2017),LeeT5 (Friday 14th April 2017),stricky1967 (Monday 3rd April 2017)

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    My R



    My old S60 2.0T - Sold to a friend with 192k miles on the clock. Still used as a daily driver.

    Last edited by htomi; Monday 3rd April 2017 at 11:54.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

  4. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to htomi For This Useful Post:

    Harvey (Monday 3rd April 2017),LeeT5 (Friday 14th April 2017),Shinsplintz 101 (Monday 3rd April 2017),stricky1967 (Monday 3rd April 2017)

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    great write up and a lovely car, looks like it's in great condition

    2003 V70R Titanium/Atacama

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    htomi (Tuesday 4th April 2017)

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    Back in an AWD....Oh the grip!
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    Welcome to the forum! LOL

    Lovely car and nice to see some info on how much you've done to it and cherish it.
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

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    htomi (Tuesday 4th April 2017)

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    Quote Originally Posted by stricky1967 View Post
    great write up and a lovely car, looks like it's in great condition
    Thank You!


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    Welcome to the forum! LOL

    Lovely car and nice to see some info on how much you've done to it and cherish it.
    Thanks!


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    This came in with the post today.



    Installing this weekend.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    stricky1967 (Friday 14th April 2017)

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    I had 20 mins spare time yesterday and installed the Strut Bar Conversion Kit in 15 mins.

    • Quality product
    • Nice black finish
    • Fits properly, no issues
    • Installation was done within 15 mins.
    • Strut bar is now rock solid
    • Improved chassis rigidity
    • Under-steer reduced
    • "With regards to increased engine vibration present in the cabin, don't be concerned." True - I haven’t experienced any vibration after install.




    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Harvey (Thursday 13th April 2017),stricky1967 (Friday 14th April 2017)

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    Look great, but the shipping cost seems prohibitive though

    2003 V70R Titanium/Atacama

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    htomi (Saturday 15th April 2017)

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    I'll be refurbing my propshaft too this summer. PITA job, but it will make a big difference.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Quote Originally Posted by htomi View Post

    • TCV - first OEM then the grey Pierburg
    • Upgraded to Jetex Air filter - thanks Lee!
    • Forge CBV with green spring
    • Exhaust trim replacement (cfwerks)
    My pleasure

    When you remap, change CBV spring from Green to Yellow mate.

    I thought the better TCV was the stock Black Pierburg, not the Grey?

    Got any pictures of the cfwerks Exhaust trim?
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    htomi (Saturday 15th April 2017)

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    Quote Originally Posted by stricky1967 View Post
    Look great, but the shipping cost seems prohibitive though
    Shipping was $53.15. Yeah, not cheap.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    I'll be refurbing my propshaft too this summer. PITA job, but it will make a big difference.
    I got 3 company names locally. Haven't had a chance to get the quote yet. One of them offering prop shaft refurb with sealed U joints too.
    Will see.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    My pleasure

    When you remap, change CBV spring from Green to Yellow mate.

    I thought the better TCV was the stock Black Pierburg, not the Grey?

    Got any pictures of the cfwerks Exhaust trim?
    Yes, if I go for a remap, then the spring will be replaced. TBH I'm happy with the car as is right now. The CBV and the do88 parts made an improvement regarding the driving dynamics.

    As for the TCV, the review is mixed. Some found the grey better than the black. Others stating the opposite. As mentioned by me in Harvey's thread: he OEM seems to have quicker response on partial throttle, while the grey feels stronger and balanced across the rev range.
    I have a brand new OEM in the garage in case if I want to swap back.

    After months of looking and searching for the trim piece - due to mine was broken by the PO, finally ordered an FRP style exhaust trim from Willy (Carbon Fiber Works) for $155 inc shipping.
    I painted it with matte black. Will post a photo later this weekend.
    Last edited by htomi; Saturday 15th April 2017 at 09:11.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    htomi (Saturday 15th April 2017)

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    While I was checking fuses in the engine compartment noticed I have a 10A fuse in №15.
    Looked at the cover to reference the fuse and the inside sticker lists the one as 'LPG/BiFuel' and 15A.

    WTH?
    Shouldn't this one be empty?
    Decided to swap the 10A to 15A and closed the lid.

    As I was still bothered and curious, went online and checked the same on various doc's and now its more confusing....

    https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/webmanu..._EN_tp6726.pdf
    Page 115
    15. Gas tank valve (Bi-Fuel) .................................................. ................ 15

    http://volvo.custhelp.com/app/manual...nual/om_id/616
    Page 119
    15 - (blank)

    Just wondering.... would it be vise to remove the fuse and leave it blank?


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    Quote Originally Posted by htomi View Post

    Just wondering.... would it be vise to remove the fuse and leave it blank?
    If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

    If your car doesn't have LPG conversion then removing the fuse will do nothing. Likewise, if you leave the fuse in, it will also do nothing.

    That circuit may be redundant, so having a fuse there will make no difference.

    If it were me, I'd leave it mate.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    htomi (Thursday 27th April 2017)

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    Thanks Lee!
    I'll leave it as is.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    My mysterious drive line noise is back. Started noticing this week and it drives me
    I'm suspecting its the propeller shaft, as my AWD is working fine, also pulling the handbrake by 2 clicks (to disable the AWD) doesn't seem to have any impact on this f$$$ noise.
    I've contacted 2 different drive shaft specialist locally (Ireland) and both said while they supply parts and repair a pretty wide range of prop-shafts (4x4,trucks, passenger cars etc) they cannot repair the Volvo shaft if the center u-joint/bearing is toasted.

    Any idea what to do?
    I'm not keen to pay €1200+ to Volvo for a new propshaft.....

    A fellow US member has the same issue. The noise is the exact same on mine too!

    As a note, the exhaust bracket has been off from my car since ages, resonator deleted a year ago.

    Last edited by htomi; Thursday 27th April 2017 at 19:10.


    SOLD - 2004 Volvo V70R GT/Titanium Gray/Gobi - 103000 Miles, Bilstein B6 Front, Resonator delete, do88 Intake, do88 Lower Intercooler pipe, Forge CBV with green spring, Grey Pierburg TCV, Viva Strut Bar Conversion Kit, 17'Pegasus, 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 AS3

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    After hearing that and noting where the sound is clearly coming from, it is fairly common for the front section of the propshaft to make a glancing contact with the exhaust. You'll know if it is when you get underneath and look at the shaft. If you can see rotational scratch marks on the shaft then Bob's yer uncle!

    Before you condem the Propshaft center bearing (which rarely fail) I would take the car to an exhaust center and see if they can just move the exhaust away form the Propshaft slightly. Only needs to go about 5mm.

    Basically mate, if the Center bearing fails, you'll know about it, because you'll hear a loud 'Thudding' noise as the prop trys to throw the middle of the prop outwards through centrifugal force. It will be obvious and virtually unable to drive, if that's the case.
    I don't think your Centre bearing has failed but I do think your exhaust has probably sagged on the joints and is now sitting too close to the prop.

    It is also common for the front propshaft CV bearing grease to dry up and turn rock hard, due to it's location (right behind the hot gearbox).
    This causes the ball bearings to ratte around in the bearing cage within the CV boot. Due to the propshaft being a hollow tube, as the bearings dance about, the noise resonates down the prop and you hear the noise.

    Only way to cure that is to remove the prop and dismantle the front AND rear CV's, clean and repack with high melting point Litium grease (usually coloured dark red). Literally pack it out as much as you can, then squueze the bearings back in and reassemble. It's an easy enough job and works a treat.
    Last edited by LeeT5; Friday 28th April 2017 at 02:36.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    htomi (Friday 28th April 2017)


 

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