K24 Turbo billet wheel

**kevinking2020** · Thursday 2nd February 2017, 19:51

I've just received my a used K24 Turbo with billet wheel

seeing that the seals have gone on my K24. This was a bargain so i couldn't say no!

Turbo is in good condition. Now I have a spare k24 turbo which I can send off in the future to hybrid with k26 billet wheel, uprated 360 bearing and k26 turbine while etc...

Here are some photos

This is normal to have crack, correct?

**The White Knight** · Thursday 2nd February 2017, 20:33

I don't think the crack is normal.....

**uqj83l** · Thursday 2nd February 2017, 20:35

Yes,
It's normal for the exhaust housing to be cracked on all K24s.
It's also normal for any company who is refurbishing the turbo to say "we cannot provide a warranty on a cracked turbo so we will not work on it"

That is what you are up against. They may ask you to buy a new turbo. That's what happened to me. Good luck.

**The White Knight** · Thursday 2nd February 2017, 20:38

A crack might be common, but that doesn't make it normal!

**kevinking2020** · Thursday 2nd February 2017, 20:56

I'm still not sure if i'm going to install turbo myself, never done it before but i'll always give it ago.

If i do it myself what will need replacing?

downpipe gasket - 8642449

coolant pipe gasket - 1236119

turbo manifold gasket - 8642449

oil line gasket - 30650296 and 31251456

oil gasket lower - 31251439 / 947282

lock nut - 977209

manifold stud - 1336261

Is there anything i'm missing?

I've already got Engine Oil and Coolant.

**MoleT-5R** · Thursday 2nd February 2017, 21:33

Originally Posted by The White Knight

A crack might be common, but that doesn't make it normal!

Our Colin (Claymore) had my cracked 15g housing and used it and reckoned it was better than the one he had one the car before, but I honestly don't think I've seen an exhaust housing that doesn't have some exhaust housing cracking.

**Tim Williams** · Friday 3rd February 2017, 08:46

They are prone to cracking there on the casting line but far from all of them crack. Excessive heat seems to be the main cause of them cracking, a poor remap with a standard intercooler and exhaust are about the best ways to crack them. once the crack goes through to the side facing the turbine wheel it WILL give reduced performance as gas will have a free path bypassing the turbine wheel.

The first place to look at once they crack is the the sealing area for the wastegate flap, if it's darkened one side of the crack it's scrap as the wastegate won't seal. If it's the same both sides of the crack it doesn't mean it be worth fitting as it may only last a very short time.

**MoleT-5R** · Friday 3rd February 2017, 20:48

Originally Posted by Tim Williams

They are prone to cracking there on the casting line but far from all of them crack. Excessive heat seems to be the main cause of them cracking, a poor remap with a standard intercooler and exhaust are about the best ways to crack them. once the crack goes through to the side facing the turbine wheel it WILL give reduced performance as gas will have a free path bypassing the turbine wheel.

The first place to look at once they crack is the the sealing area for the wastegate flap, if it's darkened one side of the crack it's scrap as the wastegate won't seal. If it's the same both sides of the crack it doesn't mean it be worth fitting as it may only last a very short time.

so exhaust gas temperature monitoring would be a good idea as well as the all important afr's

**Tim Williams** · Saturday 4th February 2017, 08:16

Originally Posted by MoleT-5R

so exhaust gas temperature monitoring would be a good idea as well as the all important afr's

Monitoring EGTs is great for mapping to determine the maximum boost at a given RPM, not much need to monitor if you have decent knock control and either can see your fueling or have Wideband fueling control. You can get the White blocks to over 1000c with no long term damage If good hardware is used, poor hardware and if you're lucky you'll just get the Cavelli syndrome.

**kevinking2020** · Monday 15th May 2017, 20:14

I had ago of fitting the turbo myself but I couldn't get to a bolt on manifold.

So seeing I brought the Turbo from Shem. I went to Shemtek Automotive to get it installed. A very long day!

Left at 5am to get there around 9ish and didn't finish till 7:30pm and I got home around 11ish... But apart from that I'm happy with the install and top blokes over there.

The turbo sounds amazing and is getting re-tuned from Gustav (contrast) but I've now got an issue which I'm led to believe it's the PCV.

Since the turbo has been installed, I've must of driven about 300 miles and has been fine but one day i put my foot down from 2nd to 3rd. I loss power but power came back on and then few minutes later i got a lot of white smoke...

I pulled over quickly and there was oil everywhere in engine bay... I was able to drive home safetly and i've checked around engine. I can't find any leaks, checked oil return etc.. all seems fine. I've done an oil change and car seems to be driving okish and boosting fine but now again I do get like a burning smell through vents and blue smoke from exhaust.

I've been told this could be too much pressure in PCV as could be clogged up and oil leaked out of seal.

I've just ordered all parts to replace PCV and new style bonjo bolts.