Owner views on Phase 2 V70R

[LeeT5]

If you have a good search on the internet, you can get some good deals on the 4C Shocks.

(X2 Front monroe shocks) - £325.00
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3115017766...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

(X2 Rear monroe shocks) - £300.25
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3913391235...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

£625.25 for all 4 shocks is a bargain.

I'd be very careful as they look like copies of a Monroe shock, not genuine!
Personally, I'd rather pay more and get genuine than risk a cheap knock off copy.

The clues in the title....'OE quality'

I'd wanna see the Monroe box they came in OR the Monroe sticker that proves they are genuine items and I can't see a Monroe sticker anywhere on either shock. It should be on the leg facing the outside of the car and very visible.

[Tim Williams]

I fitted some of the cheap ebay rear shocks this morning, I think they are genuine. Everything on them was spot on.

[Harvey]

I fitted some of the cheap ebay rear shocks this morning, I think they are genuine. Everything on them was spot on.

Were they boxed or any stickers to say who made them ?, might get a rear set just in case.
The seller has been around for a long time , would guess they are the real thing.

[Yosser]

Must say I'm tempted to buy a full set while they're available.

[Harvey]

Must say I'm tempted to buy a full set while they're available.

I've got a pair for the front in store .

[jamesy12345]

Fronts on my s60 have been changed & I have a set of rears to go on..! Got them from Amazon there was a thread about it on here somewhere

[Harvey]

I'd be very careful as they look like copies of a Monroe shock, not genuine!
Personally, I'd rather pay more and get genuine than risk a cheap knock off copy.

The clues in the title....'OE quality'

I'd wanna see the Monroe box they came in OR the Monroe sticker that proves they are genuine items and I can't see a Monroe sticker anywhere on either shock. It should be on the leg facing the outside of the car and very visible.

Just had a chat about these they say OE as they are not volvo shocks but OE as Monroe are the brand not volvo so got my rears on the way as the price is so good on them, it can only go up £ to € etc.

[volvokid]

Those shocks are the ones I bought for the rear

[LeeT5]

Cheers. Just a PS and something i always wondered even when I had mine - is there any way of dumping the ££££ 4C system and going "analogue" like Range Rover owners do? I never liked it and it seemed more of a marketing gimmick than anything else, and like the Audi allroad just becomes a curse eventually.

Sounds to me like yours was never working 100%.

Four-C was just a name for the electronic suspension (Continuously Controlled Chassis Concept).
Trying to 'disconnect' it from the car is extremely difficult as Four-C is integrated with the traction control, braking systems and engine management so removing it is not a simple matter.

You'd be better off getting the suspension working properly rather than replacing loads of bits, at great expense, and hoping the car handles well. Asides from the Insurance risks by doing this, you'll likely invalidate your insurance entirely and or not get insurance all together.

There really is only five main things that affect the performance of the Four-C and it's ability to function 100% as it was intended and these are:

1. Proper four wheel alignment within Volvo spec.
2. Suspension bushes - Rear bushes wear, especially on V70R. These really tighten up the back end when replaced. Any worn bush will make suspension feel vague and unresponsive. (future proof them with Poly)
3. Rear height level sensor - Known for coming loose and or the blind rivets break off and the sensor hangs away from the rear subframe (This makes an enormous difference when fixed)
4. SUM software and calibration - Volvo's latest SUM update smooths out the shocks response time, making them less harsh. This also removes any knocking felt in COMFORT at low speed and minor road bumps.
5. The shocks and springs themselves - Yes they are expensive and springs sag but the car cost £42,000 OTR so what do you expect?! They should be changed around the 80-100k mark and the difference is night and day!

In my experience of R ownership for the past 10+ years I can honestly say, running issues and engine problems aside, if you ensure the above is all complete there is no reason why your R shouldn't drive absolutely sweet.

Granted, my cars not 100% perfect but nobody's will be unless they are brand new. Suspension wise, my car is pretty much spot on.

[Harvey]

I've got a pair for the front in store .

Now have a rear set aswell, They are Monroe units.

[britten_mark]

4. SUM software and calibration - Volvo's latest SUM update smooths out the shocks response time, making them less harsh. This also removes any knocking felt in COMFORT at low speed and minor road bumps.

This sounds interesting. I recall watching Tiff Needell doing a Volvo promotional film for the R demostrating how smooth it was yet it was never anything but harsh for me. I popped 2 18" P-Zero sidewalls on potholes my T5 would have glided over.

The scariest thing for me at the time was the intonation that so many replacement parts had to be flash coded by the main dealers, like the shockers. How do you get around that these days?

Granted, my cars not 100% perfect

Doesn't look far off though!

[LeeT5]

This sounds interesting. I recall watching Tiff Needell doing a Volvo promotional film for the R demonstrating how smooth it was yet it was never anything but harsh for me. I popped 2 18" P-Zero sidewalls on potholes my T5 would have glided over.

The scariest thing for me at the time was the intonation that so many replacement parts had to be flash coded by the main dealers, like the shockers. How do you get around that these days?

That's debateable mate! In my job on a daily basis I see 16", 17", 18" and 19" tyres with sidewall damage caused by driving through potholes. All depends on the size of the hole and the speed at which you hit it! It's totally down to luck if you even get away without damaging your rim, let alone the tyre.

Buy VIDA/DICE yourself and a suitable laptop. Not all things on the car have to be 'coded' as such, but the shock absorbers do need to be recalibrated after any suspension component change and the list is not exhaustive, including ALL bushes, bearings, shocks, springs, lower arms, level and ride height sensors.

You can even calibrate the shocks with you seated or unseated, full tank of fuel or empty....Your choice!!

All a calibration does is tells the SUM the shocks are rested on flat level ground and this then sets a datum. Any deviation + or - of this datum affects the shocks behaviour in relation to the road surface you are driving on and the inputs from the other sensors on the car, ie YAW sensors.

Things that are measured are:

the rotational speed and vertical movement of each wheel
steering wheel deflection and velocity
cornering (yaw rate)
engine torque (calculated)
braking interventions by ABS and DSTC.

There are other sensors too but that's for another thread entirely on it's own.

[htomi]

I'm gonna try the resistor mod and go coilovers on the s60r or decent shocks and springs never been a massive fan of the 4c

Forget the resistor approach. Cut the sensor out of the busted shocks and plug it back. That's it.
Few people swear on the KWs, however if you want something reliable, go with Bilstein. B6 with stock spring or B8 with lowering springs. Rears going to be a bit tricky but certainly doable.

Ask me how I know

[Ettienne]

Forget the resistor approach. Cut the sensor out of the busted shocks and plug it back. That's it.
Few people swear on the KWs, however if you want something reliable, go with Bilstein. B6 with stock spring or B8 with lowering springs. Rears going to be a bit tricky but certainly doable.

Ask me how I know

Best shocks I had on one of my guls was b6's especially for everyday use.

I'm guessing using 2.5t awd non R suspension would work ok.

I've got a spare set of 4c (used) to remove sensors from as well.

[LeeT5]

Forget the resistor approach. Cut the sensor out of the busted shocks and plug it back. That's it.
Few people swear on the KWs, however if you want something reliable, go with Bilstein. B6 with stock spring or B8 with lowering springs. Rears going to be a bit tricky but certainly doable.

Ask me how I know

Can you elaborate on that please? What do you mean?

[Yosser]

There's a thread on Swedespeed about cutting out the sensors, if I find it I'll post the link.

Personally I'd rather retain the 4c and keep it maintained in good working order. It seems perfectly acceptable to me.

[Yosser]

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-with-pictures

[Ettienne]

There's a thread on Swedespeed about cutting out the sensors, if I find it I'll post the link.

Personally I'd rather retain the 4c and keep it maintained in good working order. It seems perfectly acceptable to me.

I've got two so may try it on the s60r at some, I've def driven cars with better suspension, it's a shame as it could possibly be better as it was an early active suspension.

[htomi]

Best shocks I had on one of my guls was b6's especially for everyday use.

I'm guessing using 2.5t awd non R suspension would work ok.

I've got a spare set of 4c (used) to remove sensors from as well.

Yes, the T5 fronts B6/B8 are bolt on. Rear Bilstein B6 (24-018050) This one is for a Jaguar as the T5 rears aren't sufficient - at least according to the us folks.

Bilstein part numbers:
Front: 35-052210
Rear: 24-018050

I'm running on B6s on fronts and the rears are still the original 4C. (rears are still holding off, so will leave them there till they die)

Proper SS thread: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...th-HD-BILSTEIN

My thread about the same here in VPCUK: http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthre...-B6-2004-V70-R

I've done the swap back in June and still happy with the B6s. Firmness feels between comfort and sport mode, but more towards to the sport firmness. I would say its a hairline softer than the sport setting. I would certainly recommend it for daily driving.

[htomi]

Can you elaborate on that please? What do you mean?

Extract the 4C sensors from the busted one by cutting (round) the strut pipe at the bottom and then unscrew the sensor from the strut housing. Place the sensors inside the engine bay and plug back. No error messages.
No need to cut it at the side = horizontally just cut the strut housing (round), then grab the valve with a clamp gently, but firm and start unbolting it from the strut. That's it. It will come out with the plug together.

Page 6 will give you an idea.
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...BILSTEIN/page7