New 2004 V70 R owner

[o..]

Hey all,

I'm new here and have just bought this beaut. I needed something practical but fun and this car seems to fit the bill perfectly.

Its had 4 owners, got full service history and has done 114k miles. Its in great condition and everything works though needs a service so that's my first task.

Some advice from the R experts would be appreciated. I've looked at the buying guide thread and it makes sense but i'm keen to know what parts you would check / upgrade / replace as soon as you bought one? Any quick wins in terms of improving reliability or performance?

Any ideas appreciated,

All the best and thanks for having me,

o

[Santa]

Welcome

[Shinsplintz 101]

Welcome.

Get the block shimmed if it hasn't been done already.

Good luck with the R.

Cheers, Morgan

[Harvey]

Hi & welcome.
Great taste in cars you have.

[o..]

Cheers guys!

Wow block shimming sounds extreme, any particular thing that causes problems?

Looking into remapping once I get the service done. Does anyone have an advice on cam belt change intervals and how hard this would be to do?

Wheels need a refurb - tempted to go to an anthracite finish even though it isn't the original finish - Any opinions?

Thanks,

o

[M-R-P]

Welcome

The 2.5 block in the R has a habit of splitting the cylinder liners, especially when tuned/mapped. Shimming helps prevent this. If you're planning a timing belt change in the near future, you may as well have the block shimmed at the same time as it'll kill two birds with one spanner as it were.

Have a think about fitting a strut brace (around 100 quid) and fitting polyurethane bushes to various suspension components to sharpen the car up.

Have a look at the angle gear that drives the rear wheels for drips/leaks (although it would've been done if it's had full service history)angle gear replacement is expensive.

[Harvey]

Welcome

The 2.5 block in the R has a habit of splitting the cylinder liners, especially when tuned/mapped. Shimming helps prevent this. If you're planning a timing belt change in the near future, you may as well have the block shimmed at the same time as it'll kill two birds with one spanner as it were.

Have a think about fitting a strut brace (around 100 quid) and fitting polyurethane bushes to various suspension components to sharpen the car up.

Have a look at the angle gear that drives the rear wheels for drips/leaks (although it would've been done if it's had full service history)angle gear replacement is expensive.

Also PCV system at the same time , as belt & shims

[o..]

That's good advice, thank you.

Is there any specific strut brace you'd recommend? Also looking at air / cone filters to help it sound even better.

Also, any recommendations for the best oil to use? Any steers on wheel colour would be great also as well as any tips on how I can make my lightly scuffed centre console (around the gear lever) look better - Is it paintable?

Thanks again!

o

[htomi]

Welcome :-)

Center console can be painted, however finding the right color will be challenging.
I would recommend either wrap it with a good quality wrap material such as 3M dinoc or use plasti dip instead.
Alternatively, source a used 05+ center console and swap it.

As your car is a 04, before doing any performance upgrade, check the car and make sure it is @stage 0.
I don't know how reliable the service history when it comes to UK cars. Here in Ireland it does not mean anything.
So here is the list in nutshell and in order:

1. Timing belt + water pump + coolant flush
2. Ensure the coolant level is constant, no loss or frequent top up required. (early sign of cracked sleeve)
3. Oil change + filter (Any good synt 0-30W, I prefer Valvoline, others swearing on Mobile and Castrol)
4. SPlugs and coil change (coils usually starts failing around 120-130k miles)
5. AOC, Rear diff, Angle gear and Gearbox fluid change (especially if its a geartronic)
6. Brake fluid and steering fluid change
7. Check brake lines, discs and pads, replace them if necessary
8. Check handbrake cables and handbrake shoes replace them if necessary
9. Check all wheel bearings and replace them if necessary
10. Check fuel system, pump, pressure sensor, PEM and replace fuel filter
11. Complete glow test and do the PCV system replacement if necessary.
12. Ensure the exhaust bracket (close to the center resonator) has been removed previously or take it off immediately.
13. Check all the suspension parts and replace whats necessary.
14. Check the struts.
15. Check engine mounts & replace all worn parts.
    

Once these basics are all done, then I would start thinking about tune.
As a general advice:
Start with the shimming as mentioned above.
Look for a reputable tuner who has a good understanding of the Volvo ME7.
Any tune will put an extra stress on the drive line which is a weak point of these cars. (Angle gear, collar sleeve, AOC, gearbox) frequent fluid change would be recommended, especially if driven hard.

[o..]

This is AWESOME thank you!

[Shinsplintz 101]

Regarding the oil, I would look to go a little thicker. A fully synthetic 5 or 10w / 40. The Turbo charged white blocks run hot & the thinner oils can cause excessive wear on moving parts as they get so thin- particularly shell bearings, causing bottom end failures.

Although Volvo recommend a 0/30 take a look at your manual & you see a 5/40. I'm running gulf competition 5/40 fully synthetic in my 2.4t5 for piece of mind. It runs lovely with no oil consumption.

It's an opinion - based on own experience & mechanics that I trust - but it's each to their own at the end of the day.

Cheers, Morgan

[M-R-P]

Volvo recommended 10/40 semi until they did a deal with castrol.

[o..]

Hi all,

Can someone explain the significance of needing to remove an exhaust bracket and also who you would recommend to do the liner modification?

Cheers guys!

o

[o..]

Also, is this the shim kit I should get fitted or is there another way?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Focus-ST22...oAAOSwWfFXkakj

o

[htomi]

Hi all,

Can someone explain the significance of needing to remove an exhaust bracket

o

Due to the low clearance of the R's there is a chance that it will push up the exhaust (once hit by an object) to the driveshaft and causing ££££ worth of damage.

TNN25-26-2007-01-25 -- Title: Exhaust System Mounting

Page 4 of this TNN specifically addresses the removal of the Infamous Exhaust Bracket on the S60R/V70R.

THE BRACKET UNDERNEATH THE EXHAUST CAN BE REMOVED AT THE CUSTOMERS REQUEST FOR INCREASED GROUND CLEARANCE. THIS PREVENTS THE BRACKET FROM BOTTOMING OUT ON UNEVEN ROAD SURFACES. INSTALL PLATES P/N 30789011 (2 REQUIRED) BETWEEN THE BOLT HEADS AND HEAT SHIELDS. USE THE EXISTING BOLTS. Detail: http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...e_31268644.jpg

[o..]

Thats great thanks

Just picked it up - such a good drive back. Getting the service kit sorted out tomorrow but was thinking of getting an uprated filter for a bit more burble - any good value recommendations?

Also looking for another flip key as hasn't got a spare.

Small list so far and im loving the driving experience

o

[antonys60r]

Keep to an original volvo paper filter , you can ruin the maf sensor by using an oiled filter such as k+n.
As for a spare key I'm sure it can only be programmed to the car by a main dealer.

[Harvey]

Yes key is volvo only , I got one years back ..

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthre...l=1#post488978

[htomi]

Keep to an original volvo paper filter , you can ruin the maf sensor by using an oiled filter such as k+n.
As for a spare key I'm sure it can only be programmed to the car by a main dealer.

Yep, stick to the original paper filter, nothing wrong with it. In case if you're not fancy to buy the Volvo labeled one, then:
Mann: C 12 003
https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/e...20T4%20(T6621)

Other option would be to get the Snabb High flow intake with AEM dry filter, but tbh it does not make any sense till the car is stock. The stock paper filter is more than capable to handle the proper airflow up to 350-400 HP.
http://snabbuk.co.uk/collections/int...-kit-stock-maf

Spare key - Dealer only.

[antonys60r]

If you want a little more induction noise you could always remove the under bonnet insulation. Also removing the foam sock on the standard filter helps a little.