Fuel rail "quick release"?

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Being a bit old school and unfamiliar with modern cars, I was a bit stumped yesterday.

Trying to remove the inlet manifold to do the PCV, Haynes manual tells me to uncouple the fuel hose where it goes from the metal pipe to the rubber hose near the rail. They describe this as a "quick release" and explain nothing of how it comes apart. Then when I refer to this thread http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...rankcase-Vent)

it says "24. Press the release on the fuel return pipe and pull (wiggle) the fuel injectors out"

Sounds simple yeah? But seemingly after some googling it looks like I need a special tool to release this apparently common joint type. Of course I don't have that. Am I missing something, is there a simple way of doing this or do I need one of these
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rc...66843819560779

[Gold 'N' Brown]

I'm going to assume that either I've asked a really stupid question (quite likely) that the few who bothered to read didn't deem worthy of an answer. The alternative is that none of you have removed an intake manifold on a P2 before and haven;t come across one of these fittings, which I find unlikely.

So with that in mind I shall simply order the necessary tool and be done with it. Luckily they aren't expensive. It would be nice if the fricken "guides" on how to do this actually made mention of the tool needed, since it's not something I would consider to be an every day tool.

[jamesy12345]

Any use..http://matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/...ic.php?t=32428

Never tried it myself on a P2. On the P80 cars I just rotate the rail to change injectors, doubt that can be done in this case

[LeeT5]

There is no special tool required mate!

All you need to do is squirt a little WD40 into the base of the injector nozzles whilst they are in situ on the manifold.
Leave that for a few seconds, then gently wiggle the Fuel rail, forwards and backwards (not too much). This will facilitate the WD40 into the bottom of the injector seals or 'O' rings and ease the removal of the injectors, without damaging the seals. The injectors will also come out much easier.
Once you have the Injector rail with all the injectors still attached, free of the manifold, very gently rotate the fuel rail until you can see the square quick release button at the end of the fuel pipe, just where it attaches to the rail.
Again, spray a little WD40 into the button and allow to soak. Also, spray it between the end of the fuel hose and the rail connection.
Then all you need to do is pinch with finger and thumb, the square button and at the same time you push the fuel pipe connector towards or into the fuel rail. This takes the tension off the fingers inside the mechanism and allows them to spring outwards. Keeping your fingers squeezing the button (do not release) pull the fuel pipe connector off the rail.

Be careful when doing this as you do not want to bend the fuel pipe as you risk kinking it or worse case, splitting it.

It's as simple as that mate, no special tools required.

[LeeT5]

As a rule, it's always advisable to replace the 'O' rings for the injectors if you've removed them from the manifold, remembering , of course, to smear Vaseline on the 'O' rings to facilitate refitting the injectors without damaging them.
Please pay particular attention to the handling of the injectors. One does not want to damage them, nor contaminate the nozzles. Do not get Vaseline on the nozzle.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

GUys thanks for the replies.

Part of the problem seems to be that there are different fittings. Later models had the type you've described, that can be released by hand. Mine (2001MY) is like the image below (which shows someone using a plastic release tool {there are a few different designs of tools you can use for the job})
http://image.hotrod.com/f/41079438+w...ng-fitting.jpg

[LeeT5]

GUys thanks for the replies.

Part of the problem seems to be that there are different fittings. Later models had the type you've described, that can be released by hand. Mine (2001MY) is like the image below (which shows someone using a plastic release tool {there are a few different designs of tools you can use for the job})
http://image.hotrod.com/f/41079438+w...ng-fitting.jpg

I see. I know the type you have.

They are not difficult to undo and you don't need a special tool. They release in a similar fashion to the later types, so all you gotta do is use an open ended spanner and press against the plastic insert, at the same time, push the pipe into the rail to release tension on the internal fingers. Then pull the pipe straight off.

Make sure you release the fuel pressure in the rail first!!!

[Gold 'N' Brown]

There isn't a plastic insert though Lee. When you look in to the open end you can see there are 4 sprung clips that need to be released. The tools you can buy fit over the pipe and then you slide it down and inside of the "lip" on the connection. Then you press that in to release the 4 sprung clips and wiggle the joint apart. I did find one video where a guy cut a slit in a plastic pen lid and slipped that over the pipe. But basically unless you have something suitably thin to slip under the lip of the joint and strong enough that you can press it in to release the clips, I don't think there's any other way.

I've seen a set of plastic tools on eBay for a couple of quid but they are from Hong Kong and the postage time quoted was ridiculous. I can still get something for under a tenner though. Or I could cut up a pen lid.......but don't think I can be arsed

[LeeT5]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-Pc-Air-C...QAAOSw1DtXI2Y9

order now, delivered tomorrow!

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Yep, those are the puppies. Same set you can get from HK for a couple of quid if you are happy to wait up to a month for postage.

[LeeT5]

Yep, those are the puppies. Same set you can get from HK for a couple of quid if you are happy to wait up to a month for postage.

Don't be such a tight fisted sod! There only £10 and if anything goes wrong with them you can easily return them. Plus you get next day delivery...whats not to like?

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Err, excuse me Sir Spendalot, I never said I was getting the HK cheapos or that I wasn't willing to spend £10 on any particular version of the tool, merely pointing out it was the same one. That aside, if one was in no hurry and happy to wait weeks for a slow boat from China (well, HK), then why spend 4-5 times as much on a set of plastic dooberies that will likely only be used once?

There was a listing the other day for the type of tool I linked right back in my first post, right size, metal, should last, and less than a tenner. Didn't buy it at the time as I'm dangerously skint in the run up to month end. Being tight fisted is one thing, literally only just having enough money to feed my kids is quite another!

[4candles]

Just joined so thought i'd share my wisdom on this 'easy'starter.....

Op, you need not spend money on a tool for this, all you need is a length of jubilee clip band cut to approx. the circumference of the fuel line, form it to the shape of the line then press into the '4 barbs' in the female portion of joint with a screw driver or two... hey presto one detached line.

regards

4c

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Good tip! I tried something similar with an old clip I had easily to hand but couldn't quite form it well enough. Never thought to try a jubilee clip.

[stribo]

Another way to do it is use a bit of plastic from margarine tub, or similar, cut it so it's the right length to wrap around the pipe, and slide it in, as Lee said push the joint together to release the tension on the barbs, and Robert's your mother's brother.