Slipping clutch?

[spacca]

Ive recently started to get over revs when i accelerate hard.

So, i suspect the clutch is slipping, (i still have good bite i think) or the traction control is bonkers.

I don't detect any wheel spin, (cant hear it).

Any ideas guys.

[M-R-P]

Find a long steep hill and floor it in 4th. You'll know if the clutch is slipping at about 70+ mph.
If you're nice to it, you should get another few k out of it but prepare for some open-wallet surgery in the long run.
A clutch change isn't cheap on these.

[LeeT5]

I've recently started to get over revs when i accelerate hard.

So, i suspect the clutch is slipping, (i still have good bite i think) or the traction control is bonkers.

I don't detect any wheel spin, (cant hear it).

Any ideas guys.

You already said it mate!
That's how I noticed mine was on it's way out. If I drove it normally, the clutch was fine but when I accelerated hard the revs would jitter about and go higher than normal....indicating clutch slip.
Start making plans NOW to get it replaced.
And no more hard acceleration until it's fixed

I would Seriously consider a single mass flywheel option which will be slightly cheaper that stock.

When my clutch next lets go, I will be fitting a single mass AP clutch.

[M-R-P]

When I did mine, I got lucky and found a LUK dmf fir 375 quid, while the single mass was around 450.
Depending on which type of gearbox you have - 20 tooth or 23 tooth (yours "should" be 20) the clutch kit itself will be around 100-200 quid, again, LUK, slave cylinder will be 70-100 quid (LUK again). It's best to replace rear main seal and driveshaft seals, along with flywheel bolts (about 65 quid from Volvo)
Fitting will be around 400.
I gathered all the bits over a few months to minimise the financial impact

[Markyb]

I had the single mass fly wheel and AP clutch on my R, very happy with it, and if you consider how much some will charge you for a genuine Volvo clutch and flywheel I'd take the uprated part. Doesn't feel any different to me, especially when I had a good 6 months of occasional slip in 1st and 2nd if pushed hard

[don kalmar union]

Had a run on them recently, will have stock in around 4 weeks.....

http://kalmar-union.com/parts/volvo-...-transmission/

[spacca]

When I did mine, I got lucky and found a LUK dmf fir 375 quid, while the single mass was around 450.
Depending on which type of gearbox you have - 20 tooth or 23 tooth (yours "should" be 20) the clutch kit itself will be around 100-200 quid, again, LUK, slave cylinder will be 70-100 quid (LUK again). It's best to replace rear main seal and driveshaft seals, along with flywheel bolts (about 65 quid from Volvo)
Fitting will be around 400.
I gathered all the bits over a few months to minimise the financial impact

Thanks for info mate, is there a way to see if I'm 20 or 23 tooth before I start ordering.

[Tim Williams]

Thanks for info mate, is there a way to see if I'm 20 or 23 tooth before I start ordering.

If you give a Volvo Dealer your reg they can tell you the PN for your clutch.

[M-R-P]

It'll also be worth buying genuine Volvo transmission fluid to give to whoever does the work. I think the guys that did mine used the wrong stuff.

[spacca]

Thanks everybody for you advice and tips. After a long think i will probably get it through its MOT next month (handbrake failure) and then break it for spares on
here. It only cost me £540 3 years ago and has done me well. Bestest and fastest car Ive had.
And for those wondering, i ride my motorbike mostly to work, the cars for wet weather.

[LeeT5]

Assuming it's a P2 T5...? Shame.

[M-R-P]

Assuming it's a P2 T5...? Shame.

Yeah, V70, matte grey wrap.

[spacca]

Car is now sold. Hopefully the buyer tips up tomorrow.
If not i will let you all know and break it.

looking at a S80 T6 at the mo so intend to stay loyal.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2721892647...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
And yes im aware of the MOT advisories.