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  1. #1
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    To break or not to break, tis the question!

    I'm at an end with my T5, problem after problem and still needing work doing. It's simply not cost effective for me to keep plowing money into it. I'd have another in a heartbeat, but it'd be more mileage with these things already covered!

    So, what's it worth in bits? I'll keep the engine for a future project, but everything else can go. Very clean car, interior is immaculate with grey/black and half heated leathers. Interior must be worth a few quid on its own no?

    Any thoughts welcome.

  2. #2
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    OH DEAR
    t5 pete's Avatar
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    Without seeing pictures of what it's got normally bog standard t5s don't bring that much money in parts these days.
    A good full leather will fetch about 100 maybe a bit more if some one needs that exact one

  3. #3
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    That's a shame, might be better off selling as a going concern then!

  4. #4
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    ...here we go again...
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    What's wrong with it? What problems are you having?

    If the price is right and you list the issues, someone may be inclined to take it off your hands as a whole!
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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  6. #5
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    Now in an Audi...to allow more
    time for my 850s lol
    Shinsplintz 101's Avatar
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    As above, spares for old t5s don't bring much. Performance upgrades are worth removing, selling separately & then sell the car on whole with a detailed description. Nobody in their right mind is going to expect a 20year old t5 not to have a few issues so be honest about what you have fixed, but more importantly what you haven't!

    Less chance of it coming back to bite you on the arse the - or tucking some up, which I'm sure you wouldn't anyhow.

    Good luck whatever you decide to do.

    Cheers, Morgan

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  8. #6
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    One day I'll remember to check threads I start!

    Thanks for the replies.

    Off the top of my head, there's a whine coming from the belt side of the engine that gets worse with revs, I had the cambelt changed over Christmas as I thought it was one of the pulleys, so my only other thought could be power steering pump or alternator pulley? Also had the clutch changed, but there's now occasionally a slight bang/knock/loud tap every half a second or so when I fire it up, loose flywheel bolt perhaps? That cost me a small fortune as the bearing in the driveshaft output had shat itself!
    Rear calipers are binding again, stripped and rebuilt them last year as well.
    Front drivers wing needs doing, could also do with the passenger rear quarter spraying as well because my wing mirror glass made a bid for freedom and hit it at speed! So there's a few marks there, shame as the outside is super clean other than that.
    There's a problem with the boost, sometimes it'll boost fine but tail off, other times it doesn't make full boost at all and pulsates, I replaced the BCS with an IPD unit but that didn't solve it.

    It had new 40mm springs, top mounts, wishbones with poly bushes, drop links and rod ends done last year, OE front upper brace, 302 brakes, big Green cone filter but I could put the original top half of the box back in, RICA 304, IPD BCS, poly top mount and S80 Canopus wheels in Parada Spec 2s, but those are staying with me as you cannot find them.

    I'll always be honest when it comes to selling cars, I can't stand those who lie through their teeth.

  9. #7
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    When u had the belt changed did they change all tensioner and pulleys too

  10. #8
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    ...here we go again...
    LeeT5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
    One day I'll remember to check threads I start!

    Thanks for the replies.

    Off the top of my head, there's a whine coming from the belt side of the engine that gets worse with revs, I had the cambelt changed over Christmas as I thought it was one of the pulleys, so my only other thought could be power steering pump or alternator pulley? Also had the clutch changed, but there's now occasionally a slight bang/knock/loud tap every half a second or so when I fire it up, loose flywheel bolt perhaps? That cost me a small fortune as the bearing in the driveshaft output had shat itself!
    Rear calipers are binding again, stripped and rebuilt them last year as well.
    Front drivers wing needs doing, could also do with the passenger rear quarter spraying as well because my wing mirror glass made a bid for freedom and hit it at speed! So there's a few marks there, shame as the outside is super clean other than that.
    There's a problem with the boost, sometimes it'll boost fine but tail off, other times it doesn't make full boost at all and pulsates, I replaced the BCS with an IPD unit but that didn't solve it.

    It had new 40mm springs, top mounts, wishbones with poly bushes, drop links and rod ends done last year, OE front upper brace, 302 brakes, big Green cone filter but I could put the original top half of the box back in, RICA 304, IPD BCS, poly top mount and S80 Canopus wheels in Parada Spec 2s, but those are staying with me as you cannot find them.

    I'll always be honest when it comes to selling cars, I can't stand those who lie through their teeth.
    9/10 times the whine that increases with revs is the Alternator pulley. I had the same whine 2 years ago, a new Alternator put stop to that.
    If the Timing belt was changed recently, assuming the garage is a good garage, they would have checked the water pump for signs of leakage and replaced if needed, though in my book, I would have replaced it anyway. So my bet is on the Alternator pulley whining!
    A quick trip to a local Transmission specialist or really good garage will confirm the bang/knock/tap noise......(never heard of a flywheel bolt coming loose). Flywheel bolts are normally thread locked aren't they?
    Two NEW replacement rear calipers are not expensive to replace and much better than rebuilding.
    With summer coming up, I'm sure a friendly back street painters would Mop or blow over the rear quarter for a case of Budweiser
    The boost issue, no doubt, could be easily fixed once the car is code read. Even if it's a cracked IC (do they even fail on 850 T5's??) they are cheap to replace. Most boost issues are Vac hose related anyway, especially on an 850.

    PLUS....you've had most of the suspension woes rectified as well!!

    I really don't think the cars ready for the knackers yard yet mate She just needs some Lurrvvvee.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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  12. #9
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    Cheers Lee, when you out it like that it does seem daft not to sort it, I really need to stop being so defeatest!

    Can the bearing in the alternator be replaced? I've got a real of vac line somewhere so I might tear through it and replace them all, can the hard vac lines still be bought?

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  14. #10
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    Now in an Audi...to allow more
    time for my 850s lol
    Shinsplintz 101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
    Cheers Lee, when you out it like that it does seem daft not to sort it, I really need to stop being so defeatest!

    Can the bearing in the alternator be replaced? I've got a real of vac line somewhere so I might tear through it and replace them all, can the hard vac lines still be bought?
    Get some good quality fuel hose of the appropriate diameter of Ebay - 4mm I/d should cover most of it - then systematically replace ALL the vac lines in the engine bay. Check also the IC pipework - if its original its spent 22yrs in a hot engine bay, so the odd rubber pipe union may have developed a split, most likely on the side that you can see, so take 'em off one by one & check carefully. Replace as required - or all of them if you want piece of mind, again, Ebay has plenty of sellers with quality silicon hoses. PFV can be good for OE hard plastic parts that get brittle with age.

    If you've not done it already, or have proof that it was done recently, do a full stage zero, essentially a major engine service - pay particular attention to the ignition components. With a RICA map some of your boost issues may be down to the ECU retarding boost to protect itself (possibly).You could always drop in a standard ECU for piece of mind. A bent rod will ruin your day & I suspect be the death knell for the car.

    As Lee said above, most of the other stuff is lipstick on a pig - nice to do but isn't critical. You've done a fair bit of the running gear & transmission - admittedly there's a rattle, but take it back to the garage & have a moan - clutch release bearing?!? [Could be talking ££££e there- but it rings a bell] As for the alternator, just grab a used part from a low mileage car, most of the big breakers even offer warrantee - swap it out & hey presto - cheap as chips - £15 to £40 for 2nd hand, up to £120 for a brand new unit if your feeling flush.

    Car sounds like its got plenty of life left - either for you or someone else. Obviously the minute you sort it all out & are happy the Turbo will ££££e itself or something of that nature - but that's half the fun of T5 ownership!! Good luck

    p.s. apologies if any of the above sounds like teaching grannie to suck eggs - but you did ask for advice
    Last edited by Shinsplintz 101; Monday 21st March 2016 at 19:40.

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