Purple 850 T5

**PNuT** · Wednesday 30th September 2015, 18:40

I should mention it is best to leave the evap valve connected electric wise & I just remove everything else!

You could have probably got a set of 70 clocks for less than the money it costs to buy the new gears for the speedo! I think my gears cost around 15 quid.... probably cost 0.5p to make!!!

**oblark** · Wednesday 30th September 2015, 19:27

Originally Posted by kmb

Hello Sparky, if that photo is from the right hand side of the engine near battery then yes the fragile joined pipe leads to the boost gauge - I can verify this as my gauge started reading zero on a journey last week, on closer inspection it was the little rubber joining sleeve that was weak and the pipe had blown out of one side. This was replaced and the pipe reconnected, all good.

FYI - My internal boost gauge has a white hard pipe that goes across the front bulk head, rather than a black one.

Tell me more about the location of the charcoal canister (that small black valve shape thing in your photo)? What was the affect when removed, do you know what it does?

You can complete remove the evap valve as it has been removed from the map

Originally Posted by PNuT

its an evap valve & they can cause intermittent starting issues....

I just ditch mine completely!

Only if the pipe work to the evap cylinder is broken and the evap solenoid is jammed open.

Originally Posted by Sparkysparks

Fantastic. I hoped I could just remove it as i always have before.
Once unplugged it was obviously not leaking where it shouldnt be and i was hitting some real feeling boost, but i will block off the outlet on the throttle body.
I shall replace that hose aswell. And tighten the ICV, thats also bound to help with starting aswell.
Ordered a new set of gears for the speedo, from Hungary.
Still waiting on coilovers.....

Only if the pipe work to the evap cylinder is broken and the evap solenoid is jammed open as it would cause a boost leak.

**PNuT** · Wednesday 30th September 2015, 19:43

Originally Posted by oblark

Only if the pipe work to the evap cylinder is broken and the evap solenoid is jammed open

The one i had problems with wasn't that clear cut! it would start from cold perfectly but if you switched it off & tried to restart it straight away it would not start.... leave it for 4-5 minutes & it would start fine!

wasn't much fun going to the petrol station that was for sure!

**Sparkysparks** · Wednesday 30th September 2015, 22:58

Well once plugged back in I noticed the valve going nuts ducking then blowing. So it def needs bypassing or removing.

**Dangerous Dave** · Wednesday 30th September 2015, 23:25

Originally Posted by Sparkysparks

Well once plugged back in I noticed the valve going nuts ducking then blowing. So it def needs bypassing or removing.

The evap valve should have a non return valve in between it and the inlet manifold. This is to stop the evap system pressurising when on boost (as the evap system is meant to vent any fuel fumes into the engine. When I checked my non return valve it was shot, allowing flow both ways. I got a price from Volvo, over £40 each!! and there were two of them in my system (the other one inline going back to the turbo inlet). I just got two 6mm metal fuel check valves off ebay for £4 each and they worked fine.

Maybe worth checking it out.

Looks like this (if yours is fitted with one) by the guy's finger

**PNuT** · Thursday 1st October 2015, 04:52

Yes that valve & its price is why I ditched the system as it broke when I tried to remove the pipe work..... so i just blanked it off at the inlet & never looked back!

**Sparkysparks** · Thursday 1st October 2015, 07:02

I don't have that valve. I'll remove it all anyway.

**Sparkysparks** · Saturday 3rd October 2015, 22:07

Some work on it today.
Removed the perished hose to the boost gauge and whilst I was at it thought id check the hose on the manifold

So that was replaced aswell.

Teed in the boost gauge ready for when its all fitted.

Tightened the icv and removed the carbon canister. Leaving the valve plugged in

Should have alot less leaked boost now.
Still need to modify the pvc and piping for that.
Also is this a normal dash trim in my car or an aftermarket thing. Because I've never seen this colour before, or anything on the glove box on another 850.

More to come when coilovers and speedo gear arrive.
Cheers

**Sparkysparks** · Saturday 3rd October 2015, 22:12

Oh yeah. I'm replacing the broken bulbs behind the clocks. I have 3 popped bulbs. Is it worth getting led bulbs?
And what is tracs because there is no bulb behind it. And oil level low had no bulb behind.
Service bulb was gone aswell as parking light. Also missing was the cat. I don't think I should have that though.

**PNuT** · Sunday 4th October 2015, 07:37

tracs is traction control, some cars had it & some didn't

you will most likely have a tracs switch on the dashboard if you have it, other places to look if it has ever been fitted is on the brake servo & abs controller

**The Flying Moose** · Sunday 4th October 2015, 09:47

Nope not a standard dash/glove box trim. Looks like an aftermarket stick on part.

The 850's basically came with either wood effect trim or plain black/grey.

**Sparkysparks** · Sunday 4th October 2015, 12:04

Ok, no traction control on this one. Thats good.
I didnt think this dash trim was standard. I can remove that then, I was hoping for more of a wood effect. or maybe carbon, hmm.

**Sparkysparks** · Monday 5th October 2015, 12:42

Actually its all coming off, id rather a black dash. My speedo gear arrived today.
I need to find 3 reasonably priced bulbs though before I put it all back in.

**Sparkysparks** · Tuesday 6th October 2015, 22:03

Good news. My sportfahrwerkes arrived.
Ive had them on my peugeot and thought they were reasonably good and tbh these are twice the size and strength.

Yet to fit them. I got tied up tonight, getting this sucker in

Tried it out and i have a working odo, yay.
The bulbs i got didnt go in easy/work/fill me with joy. So seeing as im not driving it at the moment anyway ive bought a set of T5 leds (coincidence on name) that should be here by thursday.

I also found some wires on a dash switch that i can tee into for the power for my boost gauge. Im also going to try a AFR gauge i have aswell, just splicing into the lambda probe.

And after taking out alot of split hoses and boost leaks it really shifts now. Much happier.

**oblark** · Tuesday 6th October 2015, 22:21

The lambda is narrow band (0-1v) & afraid gauges are wide band (0-5v) so a afr gauge on the standard lambda won't work.

**Sparkysparks** · Tuesday 6th October 2015, 22:44

Ah damn. Scrap that idea then.

**Sparkysparks** · Sunday 11th October 2015, 12:12

BEFORE

AFTER

Didnt get a before pic of the rear but i think he looks much better now

Definitely feels like one my cars now, lower and harder. So much better.
It all came apart relatively easily which made a nice change. Did the rear without even taking the wheels off. It was so easy.

Next on the list is to sort the rear brakes and paint the wheels.
Actually the rear will need to come down more.

**kmb** · Sunday 11th October 2015, 12:28

Looks a nice ride height, how's the ride? Did you replace all the top mounts etc?

**p fandango** · Sunday 11th October 2015, 12:31

thats the same suspension i've got. The rear wasn't low enough so got some different springs

**Sparkysparks** · Sunday 11th October 2015, 13:02

Kept all the topmounts, actually i didnt use the spiders on the top of the shocks, they didnt seem necessary, but ive been left with lots of thread at the top.
The ride is nice. Much more like a car with power should ride.
P fandango, which wprings did you use because i was expecting alot more of a drop. I was considering using the original mounts instead of the new ones to give me an inch or so.