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Thread: S70 r 1998

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndysR View Post
    Great seeing this car with an owner who sounds like they will look after it, not many of these rare cars about so good to see one on the forum.
    Cheers Andy yes will try!

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    AndysR (Monday 23rd March 2015)

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    Lovely car you've got yourself James, certainly been well looked after and tastefully modified too!! Take good care of her as these cars are becoming rare nowadays....

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    jamesy12345 (Wednesday 25th March 2015)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim S70R View Post
    Lovely car you've got yourself James, certainly been well looked after and tastefully modified too!! Take good care of her as these cars are becoming rare nowadays....
    Cheers Jim!

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    Jim S70R (Wednesday 25th March 2015)

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    Nerd alert...VIN is YV1-LS5002W2-524XXX...

    https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/vin_70.shtml

    YV1L means Volvo S70,

    S means 4 door,

    50 means it has the B5234T4 engine...2.3 with 18T turbo M4.4 management system,

    0 is an emissions code...not interested as long as it gets through the MOT,

    2 is an M59 manual box with viscous coupling,

    W means model year 1998,

    2 means plant of assembly was Ghent, Belgium. Looks like I am destined never to own a Swedish car from Sweden!
    Last edited by Dangerous Dave; Thursday 16th April 2015 at 22:26. Reason: as requested

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    Do your AP's fit ok under the Comets or do you have spacers....or haven't you looked yet lol


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    Quote Originally Posted by V70 Graham View Post
    Do your AP's fit ok under the Comets or do you have spacers....or haven't you looked yet lol
    No spacers, Graham, but they are 7.5J wheels from a C70

    //edit

    does this help?

    https://www.apracing.com/drawings/P16001.pdf
    Last edited by jamesy12345; Saturday 28th March 2015 at 13:01.

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    Quote Originally Posted by V70 Graham View Post
    Do your AP's fit ok under the Comets or do you have spacers....or haven't you looked yet lol
    IIRC the AP's will fit under the 7.5" (from a late C70 I believe) comets. I don't think they fit under 7" comets without spacers.
    Factory White 855R : 2.5 Bottom End : Ported & Flowed Cylinder Head : TD04 19T Turbo
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesy12345 View Post
    No spacers, Graham, but they are 7.5J wheels from a C70

    //edit

    does this help?

    https://www.apracing.com/drawings/P16001.pdf
    Quote Originally Posted by S70T5Chris View Post
    IIRC the AP's will fit under the 7.5" (from a late C70 I believe) comets. I don't think they fit under 7" comets without spacers.
    Thanks guys.


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    Quote Originally Posted by S70T5Chris View Post
    IIRC the AP's will fit under the 7.5" (from a late C70 I believe) comets. I don't think they fit under 7" comets without spacers.
    Absolutely correct, I ran with 7j comets and spacers but ditched them for 7.5j and no spacers.

    Other wheels might clear without spacers, I know orestes do for example.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yosser View Post
    Absolutely correct, I ran with 7j comets and spacers but ditched them for 7.5j and no spacers.

    Other wheels might clear without spacers, I know orestes do for example.
    I think they are 7.5J also, Nick

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    In preparation for my possibly coilovers.....I got an upper rear strut brace


    (pic stolen from Pistonheads)

    Hope it fits, is for an 850 http://www.ultraracingshop.com/ultra..._p23054290.htm
    Last edited by jamesy12345; Sunday 29th March 2015 at 16:21.

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    Was thinking of getting ultra racing lower bar and anti rolls but not sure on quality
    C70 2.4 T Saffy Pearl now dead and stripped
    850 T5 "the Turk" wagon
    V70 D5 parked up for sale
    V50 1.8s family wagon

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    Quote Originally Posted by c70geoff View Post
    Was thinking of getting ultra racing lower bar and anti rolls but not sure on quality
    looks like too much hard work & weight the under body stuff, to me. I don't use the boot much anyway ....and now I'll have somewhere to hang the nitrous bottle

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    Good thinking batman
    C70 2.4 T Saffy Pearl now dead and stripped
    850 T5 "the Turk" wagon
    V70 D5 parked up for sale
    V50 1.8s family wagon

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    People seem to rate the Ultra Racing bits in the Alfa community, very high quality they say, only issues being poor delivery times from Malaysia or wherever the factory is.

    I've got a rear upper bar in my wagon and it's fine, light (less than a kilo) and seemingly strong. It did need its mounting holes 'modifying' a bit though as this bar (obviously very different to the saloons) is a very tight fit.

    Ultra Racing Rear Strut 002 by AcidicDavey, on Flickr

    It should fit fine Jamesy, mine was 'only for 855s'

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    jamesy12345 (Sunday 29th March 2015)

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    Quote Originally Posted by AcidicDavey View Post
    People seem to rate the Ultra Racing bits in the Alfa community, very high quality they say, only issues being poor delivery times from Malaysia or wherever the factory is.

    I've got a rear upper bar in my wagon and it's fine, light (less than a kilo) and seemingly strong. It did need its mounting holes 'modifying' a bit though as this bar (obviously very different to the saloons) is a very tight fit.

    Ultra Racing Rear Strut 002 by AcidicDavey, on Flickr

    It should fit fine Jamesy, mine was 'only for 855s'
    Thanks for that Davey, are you keeping the rear bumper like that, love it

    they don't need to be heavy section or top notch quality to be strong in tension/compression (axial direction) tbh, which I guess that is where most of the movement is - preventing the top mounts on each side moving towards or away from each other as the body flexes.

    Upper braces at either end can't be very good at stopping any forwards/backwards relative motion of the suspension tops but I guess (or hope) the body is stronger in that direction, and some bracing is better than none! Hopefully it won't spoil the ride too much...!
    Last edited by jamesy12345; Sunday 29th March 2015 at 23:24.

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    Nah, the bumper got painted in Feb, it was only a temporary thing.... which lasted 10 months! That's me all over!
    It was letting the car down, the paint on the whole bumper was flat tbh.

    Yeah I can't imagine the suspension would be able to move forwards/backwards much when the car pitches, I'd be worried if it did!
    The empty void across the car in between the suspension tops is the problem when the car rolls, as you say wedging a bar in between them will keep things as intended.

    I'm guessing in the saloons the bar literally mounts on top of the struts? As you can tell in the estates it mounts a bit back as the floor is in the way! Still makes a noticeable difference though but ride is compromised a bit!

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    jamesy12345 (Monday 30th March 2015)

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    Quote Originally Posted by AcidicDavey View Post
    ...
    I'm guessing in the saloons the bar literally mounts on top of the struts? As you can tell in the estates it mounts a bit back as the floor is in the way! Still makes a noticeable difference though but ride is compromised a bit!
    Yes mate correct...I'll get a picture eventually, just as soon as this Nigerian election finishes and I can GTF. Will feed back on the ride also!

    Calling Don today wrt coilovers....

    ...spoke to Don....Kalmar Union/Gaz kit seems like the way to go to me - let's get patriotic!
    God save the QUEEN...we mean it maan...
    Last edited by jamesy12345; Monday 30th March 2015 at 16:32.

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    If you have no interest in spark plugs, look away nooooww...

    Someone posted about plugs and that made me wonder....the NGK website recommends BKR7EIX, Iridium stuff whereas I like copper...a heat range or 2 colder usually.

    I might put my nitrous kit on the car at some point, so platinum plugs are out....NGK says no.

    So copper it is...your finest BKR8E please!

    B means 14 mm thread diameter
    K means 5/8" hex
    R means 'resistor' - recommended for cars with fancy things like ECUs
    7,8,9 is the heat range of course. Heat range cross reference chart here.
    E means 19 mm thread reach
    (& S means standard electrode, 2.5 mm)

    Er...no, not in this country mate. I've spend ages looking through the net and can't see any 8's or 9's. Unless you want to pay daft money.

    Try again - the Champion website says RC9YC...which match the dimensions of the NGKs. According to the heat range chart above, NGK 8 is equal to Champion 6 - RC6YC is it then...until the nitrous goes on then maybe need to go one range colder again - probably BKR9EIX...I'll start saving up....

    Both NGK and Champion recommend 0.8 mm gap btw

    //edit

    Forgot to add Champion numbering system...

    R - resistor
    C - 14 mm thread, 19 mm reach, 5/8" hex
    6 - heat range, as above colder than NGK 7
    YC - projected tip copper
    Last edited by jamesy12345; Saturday 11th April 2015 at 11:37.

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    Interesting reading mate, is there any reason you prefer copper? I use iridium in the C70, the rest have platinum.

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