Almost feel embarrassed to be asking such newbie-esque questions, but hey ho!
So, is there any benefit to using an OE Volvo oil filter (Ph2 V70, so cartridge style) over anything available from the likes of ECP etc? Like say a Mann filter? Not so much bothered about cost, it's more, can I be arsed to go to my Volvo dealer when ECP is easier?
I learn't my lesson about filters years ago, when I had a 440Turbo. I couldn't understand why, after I changed the oil and filter, would the engine's tappet's 'tap' for about 2-3 seconds longer on cold start up than before the oil change? Then someone asked me, Did I use a genuine filter? No, I said....I used a pattern art from some motor factors. So I dropped the oil and replaced the pattern filter with an OE filter and sure enough, the engine tapping virtually disappeared on cold start! Why? The genuine filter had a 'one way valve' in it that prevented the oil from escaping when switched off, meaning, when you start the car from cold the oil pump doesn't have to fill the oil filter before moving round the tiny oil galleries etc in the head. Result was a much quieter, smoother running engine.
Now I know a filter insert does not have a valve, but I would question the quality of the material used in a pattern part. I know MANN filters may be the same, however, if you can't be arsed to go the extra mile to get genuine service items that don't cost that much at all, then perhaps you should not be arsed to service the car?
A genuine filter insert retails for a lowly £8.10 and comes with a quality rubber 'O' ring that I trust will not split or break.
You'll also need a new alloy sealing ring for the sump...retail £1.35.
No.2 - I was thinking of running a cheap semi-synth through for a few miles (and I literally mean a few miles) just to help flush the engine (obviously after dropping the old oil). PFV have this GM oil on offer, but it says only suitable for engines up to 1999
http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=6632. Would that really matter on a 2001 T5 for just a few miles, to be used a s a flush? Just wondering if could have any negative effect of seals etc.
How are you going to flush out your old oil with a cheap 10W40 Semi- synthetic? When you drop that oil after a few miles, you won't get oil of it out! You can never get ALL the oil out because it sits in places that don't drain. Therefore, when you refill with the correct grade of oil, ie 5W30 Fully synthetic, you'll have a % of mixed oils in your engine of two different grades! That's hardly flushing the engine out IMH. Also, putting new oil in and draining won't removed the glazed deposits and gummed up carbon from your engine. AFAIK, you will achieve nothing.
No.3 - After seeing Claymore post about his use of Seafoam recently, and having considered it way back, I'm thinking of giving it a go. My engine is just under 100k, but I've neglected the oil change (prob coming up to 8k), and I've got blocked PCV symptoms. I figure it would be good if I could loosen up any deposits, and maybe help loosen sludge in the PCV before I try and clean the system in the next few months (I know Lee will advise that I should replace the whole system at over £100 but I'd rather try and clean what I can and only replace what bits are beyond saving). But I'm also worried that in loosening deposits I end up with something clogging the oil pick up, a oil gallery or the supply to the turbo. This is probably a controversial one, but wondered what others think about using Seafoam as a flushing aid. I also expect a lot of people will say there's no need to flush at all so long as good quality oil is used and changed regularly, which is a valid point.
I've heard good things and bad things about using seafoam. Some reports of Seafoam use have literally destroyed engines or caused irreversible damage.
If you have neglected your service intervals and let the oil go longer than it's designed for, then you will no doubt have some glazing and gummed up parts of the engine. For years now I've always used Wynns Engine flush. Pour in a warmed up engine, allow engine to high tick over for 10 - 15 minutes and then drop the oil. Works everytime. The oil will always come out blacker than normal because most of the gummed up sticky carbon that you can't see, has been dissolved and is flushed away in the oil. I used it on ALL my cars including my P1R and I also used it when I bought my P2R. You only really have to use it now and again, not every service. Every third service is OK.
Regards your PCV, using seafoam or engine flush won't unblock the PCV. If your car's done 100k then your PCV pipe will be totally blocked and rock solid. You won't be able to clean it out as the moment you touch it or move the pipe it will break. The plastic PTFE pipe becomes very brittle over time. You may choose to try and unblock the PCT nipple and the banjo union on the manifold but seriously, you'll be wasting your time. When I removed my PCV pipework after 138k the nipple was only 50% blocked as was the banjo union. The work involved in getting to those parts alone, you may as well remove the manifold and do the breather box and heat exchange pipe!
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