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  1. #21
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    You think polishing a car every two weeks is a good idea? And drying a car with anything other than water and a leaf blower etc causes paint damage no matter how careful you are and can't be considered being "anal extreme".

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    Quote Originally Posted by Saaamon View Post
    That sounds like a really good way of destorying paint.
    In fairness a few years ago before i had learnt properly i had an s40 and i used to use paint corrector aswell and i did go through paint . Whoops... so only use that rarely now where its needed.
    but the polish and wax i use has little or no cut in it so safe to put on as regular as i do
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    To be fair resin polish has a very very mild abrasive, more of a paint cleanser if I'm honest.

    A leaf blower could be worse than a towel, no filters in a leaf blower but it's a fair point, any contact with the paint can cause marring.
    Last edited by Rob_ioClean; Thursday 6th November 2014 at 21:15.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Saaamon View Post
    You think polishing a car every two weeks is a good idea? And drying a car with anything other than water and a leaf blower etc causes paint damage no matter how careful you are and can't be considered being "anal extreme".
    This for sure.

    There is a big difference between being a car "valeter" and a "detailer". I bought a few products from a Autoglym trade stand earlier this year, and whilst the "expert" talked a good game, it was clear he knew less than I did about detailing, and I am a proper amateur, believe me!

    For example, the autoglym HD wax is a reasonable product. It gets good results and is easy to work with for sure. But it doesn't even come close to something like R222 wax, which doesn't cost anymore. It's not as easy to use, but my god, the results are astonishing.
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by S70T5Chris View Post
    This for sure.

    There is a big difference between being a car "valeter" and a "detailer". I bought a few products from a Autoglym trade stand earlier this year, and whilst the "expert" talked a good game, it was clear he knew less than I did about detailing, and I am a proper amateur, believe me!

    For example, the autoglym HD wax is a reasonable product. It gets good results and is easy to work with for sure. But it doesn't even come close to something like R222 wax, which doesn't cost anymore. It's not as easy to use, but my god, the results are astonishing.
    There are defo better products for the money etc and i only did it to get approval through work for some of the protective products we supplied and i defo agree about the wax i have some stuff in an un named pot i was given ages ago thats a pig to work with so only use it for important events etc and that is amazing ... but only if you have bout 3hours to do it .lol
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    Quote Originally Posted by S70T5Chris View Post
    This for sure.

    There is a big difference between being a car "valeter" and a "detailer". I bought a few products from a Autoglym trade stand earlier this year, and whilst the "expert" talked a good game, it was clear he knew less than I did about detailing, and I am a proper amateur, believe me!

    For example, the autoglym HD wax is a reasonable product. It gets good results and is easy to work with for sure. But it doesn't even come close to something like R222 wax, which doesn't cost anymore. It's not as easy to use, but my god, the results are astonishing.
    Completely agree! I'm in love with Collinite wax at the moment, protection is great, durability is great and it is as cheap as chips!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by moosepowerlee View Post
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    Im not polishing my car if it end's up on it's nose


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  10. #29
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    I use Swiss vax, only because is was free from a nice man at work

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamest5r View Post
    Im not polishing my car if it end's up on it's nose
    Hehe not sure why it like that wasnt that way on my phone
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  12. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by moosepowerlee View Post
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  13. #32
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    As pete has spent a lot of time getting his respray just so, I think it wise you invest in decent buckets (larger volume help dilute the dirt returning to the buckets), grit guards (I use lead curtain weights to hold mine in place). I use a wash schmitt foam pad above the midline,
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    and below I use a megs M/F wash mitt.

    The long haired stuff traps the dirt to much for my liking and doesn't release it properly and on top of that they last a good long time. I also use the wheel shMitt on my alloys.

    Pre-wash - I use an autobrite snowfoam and maxi suds II mix in my snowfoam lance. Prior to that I use a citrus degreaser all around the more stubborn parts, squirted on neat as a TFM. I also use bilberry wheel clean (1 in 6) to squirt onto the rims and if there is evidence of brake dust sintering I use Iron X soap on the wheels too. Then I pre-wash with the snowfoam and leave it to draw down. I have a low pressure karcher, deliberately bottom of the range in power to rinse. I never rinse perpendicular to the paint and always keep a good distance.

    Washing as I've pointed out before is a 2 bucket affair. I like CG stuff and have used Citrus Wash and Gloss for many years.

    Final rinse - because I am in a hard water area - trust me my water is so hard it could knock out Chuck Norris. I have a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter. Untreated my water is over 300 PPM.
    Its a friggin nightmare. Subsequently I have 11 litre water purifying/descaling tank which I use to drop the TDS down to zero, by using an Ion exchange resin. Our britta water with a new filter in the kitchen only drops it to 250 ppm. I also looked at Reverse Osmosis systems too but they are too expensive for me.

    Its expensive to run but saves my paintwork from watermarks and reduces drying time. If I had the time I should really prefer to collect rainwater and use that. It is on the list but like a lot of things it gets put on the back burner.

    If I find more dirt like tar - I dissolve rather than hold the jet at point blank range and hope for the best. TARDIS is pretty good, though I tend to use it with a paper towel as tar make a mess of M/F cloths.

    I usually let the car air dry for a while, then I spritz with QD (usually Megs last touch though I do like the Dodo juice range too) and dry with large waffle weave towels.
    Once I detail a car I don't really want to have to keep on getting the buffer & pads out again and again - so a good wash technique is essential.

    On average it takes me about 90 minutes to wash a car inc. alloys.

    On occasion I have used Eastern European labour to clean the car.
    Last edited by Wobbly Dave; Friday 7th November 2014 at 17:18.
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    Quote Originally Posted by t5 pete View Post
    Adrian I have a attention span of a 2yr old unless its summert to do with boobies then im hooked
    This man has the same brain span as me lol

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  17. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nealevo View Post
    I use Swiss vax, only because is was free from a nice man at work
    Arg free! My Swiss vax shampoo cost £56.

    You do get proper car driers now if you don't want to use a leaf blower, I used my dad's leaf blower before he used it for its true purpose and it was good. Just never use a chamois or blade to dry your car.
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  19. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by volvokid View Post
    Arg free! My Swiss vax shampoo cost £56.

    You do get proper car driers now if you don't want to use a leaf blower, I used my dad's leaf blower before he used it for its true purpose and it was good. Just never use a chamois or blade to dry your car.
    I just googled car dryers. I think I need a new toy!!
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  22. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wobbly Dave View Post
    As pete has spent a lot of time getting his respray just so, I think it wise you invest in decent buckets (larger volume help dilute the dirt returning to the buckets), grit guards (I use lead curtain weights to hold mine in place). I use a wash schmitt foam pad above the midline,
    Name:  wash_schmitt(1).jpg
Views: 0
Size:  25.3 KB
    and below I use a megs M/F wash mitt.

    The long haired stuff traps the dirt to much for my liking and doesn't release it properly and on top of that they last a good long time. I also use the wheel shMitt on my alloys.

    Pre-wash - I use an autobrite snowfoam and maxi suds II mix in my snowfoam lance. Prior to that I use a citrus degreaser all around the more stubborn parts, squirted on neat as a TFM. I also use bilberry wheel clean (1 in 6) to squirt onto the rims and if there is evidence of brake dust sintering I use Iron X soap on the wheels too. Then I pre-wash with the snowfoam and leave it to draw down. I have a low pressure karcher, deliberately bottom of the range in power to rinse. I never rinse perpendicular to the paint and always keep a good distance.

    Washing as I've pointed out before is a 2 bucket affair. I like CG stuff and have used Citrus Wash and Gloss for many years.

    Final rinse - because I am in a hard water area - trust me my water is so hard it could knock out Chuck Norris. I have a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter. Untreated my water is over 300 PPM.
    Its a friggin nightmare. Subsequently I have 11 litre water purifying/descaling tank which I use to drop the TDS down to zero, by using an Ion exchange resin. Our britta water with a new filter in the kitchen only drops it to 250 ppm. I also looked at Reverse Osmosis systems too but they are too expensive for me.

    Its expensive to run but saves my paintwork from watermarks and reduces drying time. If I had the time I should really prefer to collect rainwater and use that. It is on the list but like a lot of things it gets put on the back burner.

    If I find more dirt like tar - I dissolve rather than hold the jet at point blank range and hope for the best. TARDIS is pretty good, though I tend to use it with a paper towel as tar make a mess of M/F cloths.

    I usually let the car air dry for a while, then I spritz with QD (usually Megs last touch though I do like the Dodo juice range too) and dry with large waffle weave towels.
    Once I detail a car I don't really want to have to keep on getting the buffer & pads out again and again - so a good wash technique is essential.

    On average it takes me about 90 minutes to wash a car inc. alloys.

    On occasion I have used Eastern European labour to clean the car.
    All that effort and then you sometimes use Eastern European Labour who will undo all your good work in one go with there sponge, chamois and single dirty bucket that they have used on numerous other cars before doing yours.

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  24. #38
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    I run my own detailing business, i offer valets as a starting point, but a four star valet, not your standard wash n wax job, so yes i am bias. Detailing is an evolving science with new science, new technologies and new techniques almost everyday. Its a constant learning curve but its addictive for some. Some don't see the point, some do. Its horse for courses.

    Most of my customers jaws drop to the floor when i discuss timescales with them. But my average Car preparation, decontamination and protection is like 6-8 hours depending on the state and size of the car and that won't include any polishing or corrective work. If i'm doing correction work, then it may take upwards of 2 days again depending on the size and state of the vehicle. My current car was mistreated to £5 backlot washes and car washes and so far i've treated it to 30hours of work in terms of paint correction and its still not "perfect".

    There are many methods. learning by watching videos and reading online is only going to get you so far, even into trouble if you don't know what you are doing.

    As for two bucket method, i always use that wash technique. Its simple case of making sure the contaminants/dirt coming off the car stay off the car and don't cause any further damage to your paintwork by you then dragging them back over freshly prepared/washed paintwork. Using grit guards, one bucket to wash, one to rinse, making sure the mitt is free from dirt, grit, particles as best as possible.

    In relation to your comment about polishing every week - no, there should be no need for you to "polish" every week. Each time you use a polishing compound on your car (depending on the strength of it) you are removing layers of your clearcoat - this is what you are polishing not your actual paint. Doing that every week especially if your technique is poor (which you may not even be aware of) will in the end cause major damage to your cars appearance, in some case irreparably and you are left needing a bodyshop to repair the damage if someone like a detailer cannot correct the damage for you.

    Polishing should be done to repair scratches, damage to the clear coat - swirls, holograms, marring etc and after that, the protection that you layer with waxes and sealants combined with your washing technique each time you wash your car, should then make sure that any further corrective work is kept to a minimum, so therefore, no need to "polish" every week. You are wasting, time, money, effort and in some cases only doing more harm than good to the clear coat on your car.
    to answer your original comment, if i were to give a recommendation on a wash mitt, i recommend something like this -

    http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/washin...prod_1350.html

    Worth the extra money in the long run.
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    I use that wash mitt


 

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