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    Is this 850 T5 PH good advice?

    Here's a link to the PH article: http://www.pistonheads.com/news/defa...?storyId=30822

    This is the part that interests me, I've searched the forum and couldn't find reference, although it could be my searching skills:

    You can also adjust the wastegate actuator to increase boost pressure and torque lower down the rev range. PHer morgrp reckons he's done this simple job on countless T5s and on three of his own. "Pop off the heat shields, remove the r-clip and disconnect and adjust around 8 to 10 turns," he says. "Re-connect and test, leaving the heat shield off in case you need to make further adjustments. The car will automatically cut the fuel supply if it boosts too hard, so it's safe. If it does cut the fuel, simply disconnect, wind the actuator back a couple of turns and try again." Morgrp does add a word of warning. "Don't run it too long without the heat shields, as the brake lines run above the turbo and can get hot." Wise words there. For extra wisdom, fit later brakes from the V70 to rein in your new-found madness, and a strut brace isn't a bad shout either.

    It it really this easy for the boost pressure increase and what gains do you get? Will I shear off all the bolts and knacker something? Some photo advice would be good on the parts mentioned if anyone feels it's worth the effort

    Thanks in advance!

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    Hmmm... that fella appears a lot on the PH Volvo section and doesn't usually post stuff that dodgy..?

    You can tweak the actuator a little but 8-10 turns? and then rely on boost-cut to tell you if you've overdone it? that's a quick way to bend a rod imo.

    Fit a boost gauge and a bleed valve, start at it's lowest setting and gradually bring it up to about 12 psi.
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    Thanks for the comments.

    I'm pretty new on here but haven't managed to locate any stickies or suchlike for things like this, or even better fitting an MBC to an 850 T5, am I looking in the wrong place?

    Maybe if I go down this route I will photo catalogue the grazed knuckles, sheared bolts etc as I 'progress'

    Need to make the brakes a bit more 'bitey' first though

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    Quote Originally Posted by kmb View Post
    Thanks for the comments.

    I'm pretty new on here but haven't managed to locate any stickies or suchlike for things like this, or even better fitting an MBC to an 850 T5, am I looking in the wrong place?

    Maybe if I go down this route I will photo catalogue the grazed knuckles, sheared bolts etc as I 'progress'

    Need to make the brakes a bit more 'bitey' first though
    TBH, the search function on this forum has never been very good.

    Fitting an MBC is easy, setting it up is slightly less easy and resisting the urge to turn it up "one more click" (**Frankie **) is quite hard indeed although, the first time you experience boost-cut and leave dental records in the steering wheel, you'll know to behave (or get it remapped).

    302mm brakes off a P1 V70/C70 will go straight on
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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    I fitted an MBC on my previous 96 MR2 Turbo, ran the (superlong) piping into the passenger cabin to set it up propely on the move... just added a couple of PSI.

    Do these 302mm discs and pads fit under standard T5 wheels? Will I need to change the carriers/calipers?

    I really do apologise for asking the same questions as everyone else who joins here, but the search does appear erratic. I suffer this on the Accord Type R forum where I moderate, becomes very repetitive

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    I'd do it half a turn at a time & fit a boost gauge to monitor it first. Just winding up the boost that much will end up with a bent rod as I found out when my tcv failed in my old V70R.
    That is poor advice if you ask me.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmb View Post
    Here's a link to the PH article: http://www.pistonheads.com/news/defa...?storyId=30822

    This is the part that interests me, I've searched the forum and couldn't find reference, although it could be my searching skills:

    You can also adjust the wastegate actuator to increase boost pressure and torque lower down the rev range. PHer morgrp reckons he's done this simple job on countless T5s and on three of his own. "Pop off the heat shields, remove the r-clip and disconnect and adjust around 8 to 10 turns," he says. "Re-connect and test, leaving the heat shield off in case you need to make further adjustments. The car will automatically cut the fuel supply if it boosts too hard, so it's safe. If it does cut the fuel, simply disconnect, wind the actuator back a couple of turns and try again." Morgrp does add a word of warning. "Don't run it too long without the heat shields, as the brake lines run above the turbo and can get hot." Wise words there. For extra wisdom, fit later brakes from the V70 to rein in your new-found madness, and a strut brace isn't a bad shout either.

    It it really this easy for the boost pressure increase and what gains do you get? Will I shear off all the bolts and knacker something? Some photo advice would be good on the parts mentioned if anyone feels it's worth the effort

    Thanks in advance!
    If only is was as easy as that we`d all be running 12 psi with no remapping.

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    You can't run 302's from a v70 on standard 850 t5 wheels. The best way of increasing power is a map, you won't see hardly any gains with an mbc, it will feel quicker but that's it. My 850 is in very healthy condition and only made 225hp at the flywheel with the boost at 12-13psi and the power delivery was jerky and uncontrolled, it's a false economy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Saaamon View Post
    You can't run 302's from a v70 on standard 850 t5 wheels. The best way of increasing power is a map, you won't see hardly any gains with an mbc, it will feel quicker but that's it. My 850 is in very healthy condition and only made 225hp at the flywheel with the boost at 12-13psi and the power delivery was jerky and uncontrolled, it's a false economy.
    Totally disagree, I have a map and a bleed valve, and when I use the car just on the map, it's boring, crack open the bleed valve and let the fun begin. And surely feeling quicker is what it's all about.
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    The quote is from here, one would presume....

    http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...+for+an+850+t5

    Never tried an MBC so no idea. Probably if you are careful with it the ECU will adjust for the extra boost up to a limit, after which the car will run lean

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    It looks like a map is the best answer, do you chaps buy the chip and solder (seem to be some £50 Swedish Ebay chips for T5 Manual promising great things), or just get hold of an ECU already done, or flash the existing chip?

    So many options. But I don't want to spend more than £100-150 fitted

    Anyone got a RICA manual ECU 304 version they want to sell me?

    My car has ITG filter and cat back stainless powerflow 2.5".
    Last edited by kmb; Wednesday 5th November 2014 at 13:21.

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    I think Oblark may be able to help you there.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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    I'll drop him a PM

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    Quote Originally Posted by claymore View Post
    Totally disagree, I have a map and a bleed valve, and when I use the car just on the map, it's boring, crack open the bleed valve and let the fun begin. And surely feeling quicker is what it's all about.
    Well mine feels just as aggressive with the map but now it's actually quicker. Surely if one wants more boost the Ecu should be mapped accordingly?

    HLM maps are similar to rica's and there £150.

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    Haven't yet heard of these HLM Maps, I'm assuming this is a drive in to a garage that has the tech, then a simple software change.

    For this option I just need to hunt down a location in Ipswich/Colchester/Bury St Edmunds area if one exists?

  24. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmb View Post
    Haven't yet heard of these HLM Maps, I'm assuming this is a drive in to a garage that has the tech, then a simple software change.

    For this option I just need to hunt down a location in Ipswich/Colchester/Bury St Edmunds area if one exists?
    HLM do a swap service - they send you an ECU, you send yours back.

    The plug-in and go service is for newer models only afaik (I had mine done there )
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
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    Got an old discovery now.

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    Thanks for the great help, impressed by how helpful folks on here are

    I'm pretty much in France 90% of the time so the HLM send away route could work if it's a period that I'm not back in the UK whilst it gets sorted.

    Does anyone just solder one of those Ebay special Swedish chips into the ECU?

  26. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmb View Post
    Thanks for the great help, impressed by how helpful folks on here are

    I'm pretty much in France 90% of the time so the HLM send away route could work if it's a period that I'm not back in the UK whilst it gets sorted.

    Does anyone just solder one of those Ebay special Swedish chips into the ECU?
    Been done but it's a ball-ache and potentially troublesome.

    I think Oblark might do the send-away thing too, worth asking him.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

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    If you arrange it with hlm I think they'll do it while you wait.

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