Anti-roll bar bushes

[JamesT5]

Well, I stand corrected then, must be different on a P2 or perhaps left hand drive.

[stribo]

Well, I stand corrected then, must be different on a P2 or perhaps left hand drive.

Yes, on the P2, the subframe has to be lowered, just one interesting point is that the Haynes manual states that new subframe bolts must be fitted when reassembling.

[claymore]

Yes, on the P2, the subframe has to be lowered, just one interesting point is that the Haynes manual states that new subframe bolts must be fitted when reassembling.

Yep, I know the subframe needs lowering, but normally you wouldn't take the rack off, you'd just split the rack off the column.

[stribo]

Yep, I know the subframe needs lowering, but normally you wouldn't take the rack off, you'd just split the rack off the column.

Sorry yeah, for some reason, you can't split the column from the rack, which is strange, on my Cougar there was a 10mm nut at the bottom of the column, once undone, the column would seperate from the rack.

[JamesT5]

Sorry yeah, for some reason, you can't split the column from the rack, which is strange, on my Cougar there was a 10mm nut at the bottom of the column, once undone, the column would seperate from the rack.

So in other words I was right all along.

[claymore]

So in other words I was right all along.

There is always a first time

[claymore]

Sorry yeah, for some reason, you can't split the column from the rack, which is strange, on my Cougar there was a 10mm nut at the bottom of the column, once undone, the column would seperate from the rack.

So how do you split the column from the rack?

[JamesT5]

So how do you split the column from the rack?

With an Angle Grinder..........

[stribo]

Just had another look in Haynes, there is a pinch bolt at the base of the column inside the car, so can't see why you can't just undo that, and drop the rack with the subframe.

[JamesT5]

15mm socket and 6 bolts, just seems nice and easy.

[claymore]

15mm socket and 6 bolts, just seems nice and easy.

And the cost of a wheel alignment.

[stribo]

15mm socket and 6 bolts, just seems nice and easy.

Not as easy as 1 nut and bolt.

[Ettienne]

With an Angle Grinder..........

I've broken an s60r you can just pull rack off the column.

You may find it necessary to use an angle grinder.

I wouldn't necessary find a 4 wheel alignment needed as not altering the geometry of the car, plus it's not cheap for a decent setup to be done, if your trying to save money.

I'd probably get my perished brake lines replaced first.

[JamesT5]

Now everyone has had chance to debate this........

I'd like to point out some very pertinent points here regarding this job and why the steering rack should be unbolted from the Subframe.....

1) The exhaust hanger bracket bolts to the top of the Subframe via a 14mm bolt that can only be lifted out completely once the steering rack moves away from the Subframe. Without removing this bolt the exhaust hanger bracket could come down and damage a brake line that runs near to that area and directly under the bracket.

2) The Anti-roll bar is trapped behind the metal plate that surrounds the end of the column where it joins the rack. You have to remove this plate to get the bar off because the plate is attached to another plate at the top so there's no way for the bar to come all the way out. To remove the plate the rack has to lift off the Subframe, if you don't, then the plate will just be stuck in position and you won't be able to slide it out without damaging (potentially), some hydraulic or similar pipes. Trust me, I tried it, it didn't work and I had to lift the rack slightly (already unbolted), in order to wiggle that plate free.

The plate I'm referring to is shown in this photo..............

[Ettienne]

I was referring to separating the rack, you can loosen the column and undo the bolt and a quick snap it's away from the rack, done it 3 times.

[JamesT5]

On a foot note, the car needs a 4 wheel alignment anyway given the steering wheel isn't straight, plus it needs both inner tie-rods because there's play in them. So as you can see, wheel alignment is on the cards anyway.

Plus, can I just point out that the rack disconnection won't affect the alignment because no adjustment is made to the tie-rods. What throws the alignment out is the dropping of the Subframe because when you reconnect it to the main chassis the chassis/Subframe alignment will change.

[JamesT5]

I've broken an s60r you can just pull rack off the column.

You may find it necessary to use an angle grinder.

I wouldn't necessary find a 4 wheel alignment needed as not altering the geometry of the car, plus it's not cheap for a decent setup to be done, if your trying to save money.

I'd probably get my perished brake lines replaced first.

£40 for a 4 wheel laser alignment at a local garage around here. Not expensive.

[Ettienne]

£40 for a 4 wheel laser alignment at a local garage around here. Not expensive.

I did say a good alignment not formula 1

[Ettienne]

On a foot note, the car needs a 4 wheel alignment anyway given the steering wheel isn't straight, plus it needs both inner tie-rods because there's play in them. So as you can see, wheel alignment is on the cards anyway.

Plus, can I just point out that the rack disconnection won't affect the alignment because no adjustment is made to the tie-rods. What throws the alignment out is the dropping of the Subframe because when you reconnect it to the main chassis the chassis/Subframe alignment will change.

Did you not say it must be done, we said it wasn't necessary, make your mind up

[JamesT5]

Did you not say it must be done, we said it wasn't necessary, make your mind up

Yes, it's necessary. But it's not a consideration for me seeing I'll have it done anyway.