engine rebuild

[darzmat]

Now that my kitchen is fitted and I finally have space in the garage the engine and gearbox will be coming out of my 850 t5 for a rebuild.

It will be a project and a very big learning curve.
The engine has 211k miles on it. And I'm sure the valve stem seals are gone.

I'm planning a full strip down; re hone the bores. New rings, valve stem seals, re seat the valves, timing belt kit..

Is there anything else I should be doing while I'm in there? Will it have the thinner rods? It's a 1995 2.3 t5.
If so shall I replace them? What with?

I want it to be reliable as it will then go in my v70r as it's suddenly started using oil now as well but I can't afford to not have it on the road at the moment.

With regards to the gearbox, as I stated this will be going in my v70r. Will i just use the standard t5 flywheel and a new standard clutch? Or will I have to get something suited to the R? (It's an auto so has a 16t as standard which will be staying for the time being, after a rebuild)

And last but not least where is the best place to get piston rings, valve stem seals etc..

Thanks in advance guys.

[claymore]

I would definitely go for a set of H beam rods as you have the engine apart.

[oblark]

As the engine has done 211k miles you mite find the bores has worn.

If they are you will have to bore them out to oversize 0.4 and buy new pistons from volvo, expensive.

[Wobbly Dave]

Would it not be easier just to throw a 2nd hand lump in it?

[darzmat]

I want to rebuild it as a project/something to do. Most complex thing I've done to an engine was fit a timing belt kit on my old gti-6.

I'm a plumber by trade but more interested in cars and working on them.

I will do a compression test before I start. What sort of readings will I be looking for?

[Wobbly Dave]

I am not knocking your enthusiasm, merely speaking from experience.
The worn-out 211K engine is certainly not where I would start. Recondition a decent 2nd hand one if you are that bored. Unless you own your own engineering workshop then the majority of the head & block work etc will need to be sent away. I speak from bitter experience with rounded head bolts and other nasty gotchas.

Even the parts cleaning tank I got for Xmas was largely made redundant because my engine builder has his own acid cleaning tank etc etc to do a better job than I can.
My sage advice is this. If all you want is reliable driving then by all means do an engine swap. Clean the outside of it - time the engine up - recon the PCV, turbo and other external ancillaries. Replace/recon the PAS, oil & water pumps There is plenty to do & to learn.

The only reason to my mind to open the engine up is to upgrade the parts within. Fixing an old knacker is more expensive. Use the saved money to improve the turbo or exhaust or suspension or something.

If you are still not convinced then I will happily sell my almost unused parts cleaning tank & engine stand for a good/fair price.

On my gunnar compression tester with all the plugs out - I want to see between 10 and 12 and most importantly that the compression is relatively equal across all.

[oblark]

I am not knocking your enthusiasm, merely speaking from experience.
The worn-out 211K engine is certainly not where I would start. Recondition a decent 2nd hand one if you are that bored. Unless you own your own engineering workshop then the majority of the head & block work etc will need to be sent away. I speak from bitter experience with rounded head bolts and other nasty gotchas.

Even the parts cleaning tank I got for Xmas was largely made redundant because my engine builder has his own acid cleaning tank etc etc to do a better job than I can.
My sage advice is this. If all you want is reliable driving then by all means do an engine swap. Clean the outside of it - time the engine up - recon the PCV, turbo and other external ancillaries. Replace/recon the PAS, oil & water pumps There is plenty to do & to learn.

The only reason to my mind to open the engine up is to upgrade the parts within. Fixing an old knacker is more expensive. Use the saved money to improve the turbo or exhaust or suspension or something.

If you are still not convinced then I will happily sell my almost unused parts cleaning tank & engine stand for a good/fair price.

On my gunnar compression tester with all the plugs out - I want to see between 10 and 12 and most importantly that the compression is relatively equal across all.

How much do you want for the engine stand ?

[Wobbly Dave]

40 quid and I will bring it to the dyno day if you like?

[mikealder]

If you do rebuild the engine while you have the sump off change the oil O rings and make sure you fully clean out the PCV oil drain channel that goes through the sump to its base before turning upwards - Mike

[oblark]

40 quid and I will bring it to the dyno day if you like?

I`ll see at the dyno day with 40 of our finest pound notes