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    How to change injectors

    Hi I've picked up some white injectors with rail and reg all still assembled to the manifold.. The manifold is a little different to myne, it's go a extra vac pipe come out from the front on the right side so I'll just change the oranges out of my Manifold to whites.. The reg is diff on the whites rail will this matter plz info needed thanks
    now you see me OPPS now ya dont lololol

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    When i done mine i just undobe the torx bits on the original rail i think it slides up to release the injectors then just pull them out. They might be tight. Then just push the white ones in till it xliks then slip the metal back over and put the screws in.
    Mine didnt need a remap it was 100% fine on the rollers. But maybe worth geting it checked its up to you.

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    Dos it mater that the regulator is diff on the whites rail to my rail with the oranges in
    now you see me OPPS now ya dont lololol

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    all you do is change the injectors themselves nothing else, i actually did this today too lol went from greens back to blues for the meantime.

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    [QUOTE=t5frankie;419599]all you do is change the injectors themselves nothing else, i actually did this today too lol went from greens back to blues for the meantime.[/Q
    the bad boy greens still over fueling mate, do they just pull out of manifold and how do they come out of the rail!
    Last edited by bigrotch; Friday 28th October 2011 at 18:54.
    now you see me OPPS now ya dont lololol

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    [quote=bigrotch;419613]
    Quote Originally Posted by t5frankie View Post
    all you do is change the injectors themselves nothing else, i actually did this today too lol went from greens back to blues for the meantime.[/Q
    the bad boy greens still over fueling mate, do they just pull out of manifold and how do they come out of the rail!
    you undo the fuel supply on the left press the tyre valve thing on the right to depressurize the rail, undo the 2 10mm bolts and unclip the 5 electrical plugs,and pull the whole lot out careful with a wiggle when out you will have to undo 3 x torx screw that hold them into the rail, then just individually give them a wiggle whilst pulling out. easy mate.

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    thnks t5frankie think im gunna have a go tomoz ill let ya know how it gos
    now you see me OPPS now ya dont lololol

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    Its an easy job mate 20mins tops. Nothing to worry about at all! You cant go wrong just aslong as you take the small bit of metal off that holds the injectors firmly in place with torx bits they will come out if there really tight just keep wiggling they can be buggers! Make sure all the injectors have the small blaxk o-ring on them when there out if not thell still be in the rail section carefully leaver them out with a small screwdriver or somthing. Good luck mate.

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    Like frankie says release the pressure off the rail using the valve on the end, but some bits to add to this....

    - open the fuel flap and take the tank cap off
    - get some rags ready as there will be some fuel spillage
    - use a rag to cover the valve when you release the pressure on the rail as it will be under pressure and its not nice being sprayed with petrol!
    - undo the clip on the fuel pipe next to the spark plug cover towards the back of the engine (to allow the pipe to move so you can pull the injectors out.
    - slowly wiggle the whole fuel rail to get the injectors out, it make take a few minutes, but it will come out slowly.
    - rotate the fuel rail so the injectors come towards you, eventually pointing up at you.
    - now you should be able to pull the rail (twisting it a little) towards the car battery to seperate it from the pipe. Beware you'll need some rags as fuel will spill out.
    - as soon as it comes apart tip the rail's open end up to save any more fuel spillage and go round to the fuel cap and pour the remaining fuel into the tank (there will be quite a bit if you're quick tipping it up)

    Now you can undo the torx screws and change the injectors.

    One more tip, use some Vaseline to lube up the rubber seals on both ends of the injectors, the seal on the end of the fuel rail and the inlet manifold ports to aid the refitting and save any damage to the seals.

    Hope this helps

    Bomb
    Last edited by Dangerous Dave; Friday 28th October 2011 at 20:11.
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bomb192uk View Post
    Like frankie says release the pressure off the rail using the valve on the end, but some bits to add to this....

    - open the fuel flap and take the tank cap off
    - get some rags ready as there will be some fuel spillage
    - use a rag to cover the valve when you release the pressure on the rail as it will be under pressure and its not nice being sprayed with petrol!
    - undo the clip on the fuel pipe next to the spark plug cover towards the back of the engine (to allow the pipe to move so you can pull the injectors out.
    - slowly wiggle the whole fuel rail to get the injectors out, it make take a few minutes, but it will come out slowly.
    - rotate the fuel rail so the injectors come towards you, eventually pointing up at you.
    - now you should be able to pull the rail (twisting it a little) towards the car battery to seperate it from the pipe. Beware you'll need some rags as fuel will spill out.
    - as soon as it comes apart tip the rails open end up to save any more fuel spillage and go round to the fuel cap and pour the remaining fuel into the tank

    Now you can undo the torx screws and change the injectors.

    One more tip, use some Vaseline to lube up the rubber seals on both ends of the injectors, the seal on the end of the fuel rail and the inlet manifold ports to aid the refitting and save any damage to the seals.

    Hope this helps

    Bomb
    way overcomplicated way saying how to do it lol

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    spot on peeps thnks will keep ya posted
    now you see me OPPS now ya dont lololol

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    I wouls stick with your std reg. When you re-assemble give it a test run before putting it ALL back together to make sure they are wroking OK. With mine it would not idle cos I had got a set with the worng impedance for my ECU. Also to check for any fuel leaks before taking it out on the road.
    Good luck
    W

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    all fitted and no leaks and working spot on alot smoother delivery spot on thnks again
    now you see me OPPS now ya dont lololol

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    I shall be having a go at this soon, useful thread

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    Thanks to this thread I managed to change my injectors over (white to orange, now mapped for whites), first time I've tried, they were a little tight to remove but all was straightforward following the instructions.

    One question, the oranges I took out only appeared to have a single small fuel outlet, the whites have 4 smaller outlets, anyone explain this difference. they work great, just wondering

  21. #16
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    The 4 hole variant is a newer design intended to atomise the fuel more to provide a better mix (at a guess) or to get a different spray pattern.
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

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