Correct way to setup handbrake

[Gold 'N' Brown]

***NOTE: On my V70 I'm using the knurled adjusters as can be seen in this post http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthre...l=1#post722543***

I have the oh-so familiar V70 issue of a handbrake that is far from great, and a rapidly approaching MOT. Since I don't think they will accept a suggestion to "just leave it in gear mate, it'll be reet!" in lieu of a working handbrake, I figure I better get down on my hands and knees and do some tinkering.

Bit of history - last year it failed the MOT first time on the handbrake being below the threshold on the rollers, and that spurned me on to renew most of the rear brake components - discs, pads, shoes, springs and the knurled adjusters that replace the H shaped bar. It passed the MOT then, but only just. At the moment it just about holds on anything but very steep hills but does the typical roll-back of about 1-2 feet before the handbrake holds.

Method
This is where I need some re-assurance and/or guidance.....

Last year what I did was slacken off the cable adjustment slightly at the handbrake lever end (with the handbrake off, obviously), and then I wound the brake shoe adjusters on both sides to take up some of the slack. Once I was satisfied with that I went back to the handbrake lever and re-adjusted so that it engaged at the recommended number of clicks (I forget now how many that is. 7 clicks rings a bell. Does that sound right?). I was happy enough with that, but as I said, it still only just scraped through the threshold on the brake rollers.

So, questions:
1) Does the above approach seem right, or is there a different method required?
2) How "tight" should I wind the brake shoe adjusters? When I did it last year I wound them to the point that I was just starting to feel some resistance if trying to spin the wheel (with it off the ground and handbrake off). I didn't want to make them tighter than that as I didn't want the brake shoes dragging. Opinions please.
3) Can anyone with these adjusters remember which way to wind them to tighten and loosen them? As this is done by inserting a flat head screwdriver through an empty wheel bolt hole, should I be aiming to push back against the left side or right side of the adjuster? Not the end of the world if I don't get an answer as trial and error will work, but better to know the right way from the start.
EDIT: that might not be a simple answer actually as I seem to recall you can fit them either way around. Prob going to have to be trail and error on that one.

Thanks in advance.

[LeeT5]

IIRC 7 clicks is the maximum adjustment for it to hold and pass the MOT, anything more and it will need adjusting.
Don't forget that as with anything brakes there will be a 'bedding in' period.
With the rear handbrake shoes being replaced and new cables I would expect a certain amount of slack to increase, especially after they've bed in. They will need re adjusting after the bedding in period.
Personally, I have my handbrake on 3-4 clicks. 2 clicks and it bites and 3 to hold. If I'm parked on a hill then it pull it 4 or 5 for it to hold.
I'm using OE rear shoes and handbrake mechanism at the moment but am considering changing to the ratchet type.

One thing I've learn't as with most things mechanical.....'Use it or lose it' as they say!
if I park for a few days after driving in the wet I can guarantee they will be seized on.. PITA, but they always free off easily by slightly reversing!
Then they just make a slight noise for a couple hundred yards or until I pull up slightly on the handle whilst driving, just to clean the shoe. Then they work fine again.
It's a trait with the P2 but one I've learn't to live with.

[Sperm1980]

Hi,

Contrary to popular belief, there is no rule on the maximum number of clicks on the handbrake in order to pass an annual test.
The manual states that as long as the lever is NOT at the end of its travel when the desired braking effort is achieved then it pass.

Cheers

Paul

[Gold 'N' Brown]

OK.

I guess what I really need guidance on is whether
a) adjusting the brake shoe manual adjusters first, and THEN the handbrake lever adjuster, is the right routine
and
b) how far should I adjust the shoes with the manual adjusters? Just enough to bite the inside of the disk with the brake off? Or should I then back them off a bit?

If I can get the above right I'll then adjust the lever to hold at around 3-4 clicks.

[Harvey]

Back off the adjuster at the handbrake off ,then when the adjusters fitted in the drums wind up the adjuster on so they stop the disc turning then back it off so the disk turns freely ,then adjust the handbrake.

[dtp]

I have the hand brake mod on my car. Adjust the hand brake as per instructions given by Harvey. To help bedding in I always apply slight hand brake pressure a few Times a week for the last few metres before coming to a stop. This method will also keep any crud off the drum face. I have my hand brake adjusted to 2 clicks

[960kg]

Apparently the Volvo way with the knurled adjusters is turn up the adjuster until the drum locks then back it off the opposite way 4 to 6 clicks.........then adjust the handbrake at the lever until max. effect is enabled between 2nd and 8th click...

[Markyb]

Had this problem last year, was told to use the xc90 shoes as they have a different shape to them

[LeeT5]

Had this problem last year, was told to use the xc90 shoes as they have a different shape to them

Really? I'd like some clarification on this please because I for one have never heard of that before and it sounds a little sus.
If they're a different shape, then how on earth do they grip the shape of the drum?

[Gold 'N' Brown]

Had this problem last year, was told to use the xc90 shoes as they have a different shape to them

Really? I'd like some clarification on this please because I for one have never heard of that before and it sounds a little sus.
If they're a different shape, then how on earth do they grip the shape of the drum?

Possible crossed wires? From my rather dodgy memory I think the brake shoe adjusters I've referred to come from the XC90, so maybe it's those that the person advising Marky was referring to rather than the shoes themselves.

[Markyb]

No it was the shoes themselves, they have a slightly different profile to them that's better than the standard R type apparently, we had previously tried all kinds of adjusting on the old units with little to no improvement. One retaining spring had deformed, there seemed to be plenty of meat on both the inside of the disc and the original shoe, two new springs and we still couldn't get the required pressure.

[JamesT5]

Everyone knows that the handbrakes on the P2's are only for show, they don't actually work.

[Gold 'N' Brown]

I spent some time on Fri messing with the handbrake adjustment. I still wasn't happy with it though, and was having a bit of a 'mare with the brake shoe adjusters. So decided on Sat that I'd take the whole lot apart and set the adjusters back to their starting point and then try and get them set up evenly on both sides. That should have been a simple half hour job.....

2 hours later.....

Trying to work out why on the NS I had to wind out the adjuster some 30 odd clicks before the shoes started to bite on the drum, whilst on the OS I could only get about 5 clicks out of it. That's when I noticed that with the handbrake off, the shoe expander on the OS wasn't fully retracting. So at the moment, it means that although I can adjust the handbrake tight enough to hold at 3 or 4 clicks, in doing so I then have the shoes on the offside dragging on the drum.

I guess the handbrake cable is sticky from lack of use. Not really looking forward to replacing the cables just because of the hassle of removing interior trim to get to them. I know it's not a complicated job, but I just don't have much time to my self these days.

MOT is on Tues. I think in the short term I'll slacken the handbrake adjustment to reduce drag on the OS, and just tighten it up for the test. In theory it should pass as I can get it working better than it was last year and it scraped through on that test.