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  1. #1
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    Have I been sold a standard ECU?

    I recently bought a "remapped" ECU, supposedly a HLM 304, yesterday was spent fitting the new ECU and I've just come back from a little test drive.

    Disappointed is an understatement, from what I've read about remapped T5's, I was expecting a lot more.

    So naturally I'm wondering whether I've just been sold a standard ECU with a RICA sticker on it.

    The boost gauge creeps up to half way through the white, however I'm fairly sure that's what they are as standard, are they not?

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    Does sound a little odd that you bought an HLM304 map that has a Rica sticker on it. My HLM map has on markings on it at all, but you can really tell the difference over standard.

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    Did you do a stage 0 before fitting the remapped ECU I.e. can you rule out any vacuum leaks or faulty BCS?

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    Quote Originally Posted by stribo View Post
    Did you do a stage 0 before fitting the remapped ECU I.e. can you rule out any vacuum leaks or faulty BCS?
    Unfortunately due to being blinded by the thought of more power, stage 0 certainly passed my mind! How do I go about checking for vacuum leaks, and what's the BCS? Boost control something?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
    Unfortunately due to being blinded by the thought of more power, stage 0 certainly passed my mind! How do I go about checking for vacuum leaks, and what's the BCS? Boost control something?
    Boost control solenoid, or Turbo Control Valve (TCV). Check the general condition of the vac hoses, if they're starting to look perished then they'll definitely need changing. Finding a boost leak just by looking can be nigh on impossible, as sometimes a hoses that looks fine, will open up under pressure.

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    Was the needle making half way up the gauge before you fitted the ecu?
    I'd put the old ecu back in and work on getting the engine running right first, then fit the ecu and enjoy.
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    As per other replies, make sure it's running properly before anything else.

    IIRC, I helped Smithson with a similar problem quite a while back and it turned out someone had plumbed the bcs in the wrong way round - boost wouldn't exceed wastegate pressure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    Was the needle making half way up the gauge before you fitted the ecu?
    I'd put the old ecu back in and work on getting the engine running right first, then fit the ecu and enjoy.

    Yeah, it feels aa if it's running exactly the same to be honest!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yosser View Post
    As per other replies, make sure it's running properly before anything else.

    IIRC, I helped Smithson with a similar problem quite a while back and it turned out someone had plumbed the bcs in the wrong way round - boost wouldn't exceed wastegate pressure.
    Interesting, could be worth a look at. Where is it located?

    Thanks for advice chaps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MoleT-5R View Post
    Does sound a little odd that you bought an HLM304 map that has a Rica sticker on it. My HLM map has on markings on it at all, but you can really tell the difference over standard.
    I`ve got a HLM 304 ECU with a RICA sticker on it

    1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by oblark View Post
    I`ve got a HLM 304 ECU with a RICA sticker on it
    so it must be ok then.....

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    i had the same problem with my first t5 It turned out the pipe was split on the idle control valve!! its quite common as both my cars had this as well as a few others and Ill probably get shot down for saying this but a vaccum leak will cause all sorts of grief so if the cars running well but just not fast enough then I doubt its a vacuum pipe, id check the pipes I mentioned as well as the bcs pipe work as these are also commonly plumbed in wrong


    full respray..plenty of body mods..comets..ray cat back noise pipe..decat and wrapped downpipe..me7 exhaust manifold..3" throttle body with ported inlet manifold..blue injectors..adjustable fuel reg..reverse intercooler pipework..19t..open cone air filter..255 fuel pump..m-r-p short shift..boost gauge..unknown remap..adjustable suspension..lightweight crank pulley..n/a cams..stripped out interior..and a heavy right foot

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    Quote Originally Posted by theflyingbrick View Post
    i had the same problem with my first t5 It turned out the pipe was split on the idle control valve!! its quite common as both my cars had this as well as a few others and Ill probably get shot down for saying this but a vaccum leak will cause all sorts of grief so if the cars running well but just not fast enough then I doubt its a vacuum pipe, id check the pipes I mentioned as well as the bcs pipe work as these are also commonly plumbed in wrong
    This wouldn't by any chance be the cause of my slightly high idle as well, would it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
    This wouldn't by any chance be the cause of my slightly high idle as well, would it?
    Yes

    1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by oblark View Post
    Yes

    Gotta be worth a go!
    Where's the BCS located?

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    If you still have the air box then it`s under the MAF I think

    1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
    This wouldn't by any chance be the cause of my slightly high idle as well, would it?
    sorry didnt see this but as already said yes lol let us know how you get on


    full respray..plenty of body mods..comets..ray cat back noise pipe..decat and wrapped downpipe..me7 exhaust manifold..3" throttle body with ported inlet manifold..blue injectors..adjustable fuel reg..reverse intercooler pipework..19t..open cone air filter..255 fuel pump..m-r-p short shift..boost gauge..unknown remap..adjustable suspension..lightweight crank pulley..n/a cams..stripped out interior..and a heavy right foot

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    Quote Originally Posted by theflyingbrick View Post
    i had the same problem with my first t5 It turned out the pipe was split on the idle control valve!! its quite common as both my cars had this as well as a few others and Ill probably get shot down for saying this but a vaccum leak will cause all sorts of grief so if the cars running well but just not fast enough then I doubt its a vacuum pipe, id check the pipes I mentioned as well as the bcs pipe work as these are also commonly plumbed in wrong
    Quote Originally Posted by theflyingbrick View Post
    sorry didnt see this but as already said yes lol let us know how you get on

    Having re-read your original comment, it reads as if yours was down on power? Am I reading that right?
    It seemed to pull quite handsomely without any issues on the old ECU, the only thing I noticed was a slightly high idle, around 900-950.

    She smells more fuelly now the new ECU is in, so I'm assuming the extra fuel is there, but no boost to suit! Where is the ICV located? That'll give me two things to check when I'm off on Friday.

  20. #19
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    The idle control valve sits on the n/s front of the engine with an odd shaped hose that's attached to your throttle body. It's next to your inlet manifold.
    Check all the pipes & give it a good dose of carb cleaner & it should work like new, mine was perfect after a clean.
    I'd be sticking a boost gauge on so you can see what the score is & check all the vacuum lines as sneaky leaks are hard to find sometimes.
    The difference between a standard & mapped car should be very noticeable mate.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
    Having re-read your original comment, it reads as if yours was down on power? Am I reading that right?
    It seemed to pull quite handsomely without any issues on the old ECU, the only thing I noticed was a slightly high idle, around 900-950.

    She smells more fuelly now the new ECU is in, so I'm assuming the extra fuel is there, but no boost to suit! Where is the ICV located? That'll give me two things to check when I'm off on Friday.
    no it wasnt down on power as such but after fitting a know remapped ecu (direct from hlm) to car was no different!! i even put a mbc to see if i could get it to boost higher but no good................enter spit icv pipe


    full respray..plenty of body mods..comets..ray cat back noise pipe..decat and wrapped downpipe..me7 exhaust manifold..3" throttle body with ported inlet manifold..blue injectors..adjustable fuel reg..reverse intercooler pipework..19t..open cone air filter..255 fuel pump..m-r-p short shift..boost gauge..unknown remap..adjustable suspension..lightweight crank pulley..n/a cams..stripped out interior..and a heavy right foot


 

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