T5 Rough 'start-up'

[JamesT5]

I beg to differ, when I tried to do them on the C70 2 came off o.k., and 2 rounded off as the heads are quite soft. If you managed to get them all out in 1 piece then fair play to you.

I just drowned them in PlusGas as I went and they came off, although they started to stiffen mid way through but this was just the surface rust on the protruding ends winding through the stub axle. I wouldn't say they were hard to remove, just a little effort.

But this is why I purchased new bolts from the dealer rather than using the old ones. Interestingly, the Parts guy at my local Stealers told me that the workshop normally use all the old bolts except for the Driveshaft to Stub Axle ones. The only other exception would be if one did break or round off.

[LeeT5]

No, I meant to day the bearing and assembly out of the stub axle.

The ones I purchased didn't come with bolts.

Not genuine then? Patent part!
Contradicting yourself again I see.

[JamesT5]

Not genuine then? Patent part!
Contradicting yourself again I see.

No, I was referring to the MAF when I discussed genuine parts earlier. I've fitted pattern driveshafts to the S60, they come with a 2 year warranty and they're fine and at £50 they were also well priced.

I'm not contradicting myself at all, Lee.

[claymore]

No, I was referring to the MAF when I discussed genuine parts earlier. I've fitted pattern driveshafts to the S60, they come with a 2 year warranty and they're fine and at £50 they were also well priced.

I'm not contradicting myself at all, Lee.

May I point you to a previous post of yours:

I don't think the engine mounts are hydraulic mate, they're fixed. A CV joint will generally 'click click click' when it's worn whereas the wheel bearings tend to rumble which gets worse when you corner.

My advice personally, is don't buy cheap parts if you can help it, especially wheel bearings. I'm not suggesting you were going to buy cheap parts but just in case. I've had the misfortune of seeing the cheaper parts fail prematurely (i.e. strut spring seats and ball joints), so I now fit OE Volvo or uprated parts to the car because they last longer and are better value in the long run (and hence I now replace rubber bushing with PU where possible). Also change both sides of the car because where one part has gone the other is probably not far behind.

If you're doing the work yourself, I'd advice getting new bolts because the wheel bearing bolts are 'stretch bolts' so the thread can strip and they can snap and cause all sorts of issues. New bolts may come with the OE parts anyway but if not then I'd advise getting some.

Ok, I hope that helps and good luck!

[MIKESC70T5]

Shovel and hole springs to mind lol

[Nealevo]

Hes going to need a ladder...

[MoleT-5R]

Originally Posted by JamesT5
I don't think the engine mounts are hydraulic mate, they're fixed. A CV joint will generally 'click click click' when it's worn whereas the wheel bearings tend to rumble which gets worse when you corner.

My advice personally, is don't buy cheap parts if you can help it, especially wheel bearings. I'm not suggesting you were going to buy cheap parts but just in case. I've had the misfortune of seeing the cheaper parts fail prematurely (i.e. strut spring seats and ball joints), so I now fit OE Volvo or uprated parts to the car because they last longer and are better value in the long run (and hence I now replace rubber bushing with PU where possible). Also change both sides of the car because where one part has gone the other is probably not far behind.

If you're doing the work yourself, I'd advice getting new bolts because the wheel bearing bolts are 'stretch bolts' so the thread can strip and they can snap and cause all sorts of issues. New bolts may come with the OE parts anyway but if not then I'd advise getting some.

Ok, I hope that helps and good luck!



I think you missed to highlight a couple of bits there Colin

[LeeT5]

Silence is Golden