Bottom line is, if you have to keep topping it up from a precise level then it's got a leak, be it internal or external.
If it's external then its safe to drive so long as you keep topping up with a 50/50 mix of coolant until you can get the leak sorted (preferably soonest) but if its internal then it's not safe to drive and to continue doing so will cause further damage.
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
jamesy12345 (Wednesday 30th July 2014)
Does it idle cleanly or have a slight stumble/dip every few seconds?
Idle is good, runs high when first fired up - about 1.5k, then drops to a very steady 750 rpm
Just took it out for a run in 40 plus ambient temps, stuck in traffic for hours - coolant was around minimum when I set off, level definitely drops as the car warms up, then rises when it cools or when the expansion tank cap is (carefully) cracked
Ignore all that pish above about levels rising & falling (fall & rise...of reggie perrin),
The car is definitely using coolant, must be passing somewhere just slightly as there is quite a bit of pressure left in the expansion tank a while after a run.
I don't know how people can sell cars on & keep quiet when they know there is a fault. If I'd bought this for 6k I'd be pissed off now. The previous owner was still claiming it was fine....got the headlight & coolant warning messages within days of starting to use the car....never seen those before....sure....
Anyway, booked in for a 4-wheel alignment on Saturday
The car is now with Volvo for a strip down......with strict instructions to stop & give me a call when the head is off
Anyone got a shimmed 2.5 block they don't need.....with a price including postage to Doha
If it helps you could drop a 2.4 in there or hybridise a 2.3 block with with your engine.
I shimmed my split liner and it's been perfect so far after 1500 miles of summer driving in town, nit a drop of coolant has been used. It's much less hassle and cheaper than dropping the engine especially if it's in a garage, basically same price as head gasket.
As above, I had a spare already split s60r engine my friend has used, re bored into a 2.3 block and I shimmed the liners for him.
jamesy12345 (Sunday 10th August 2014)
Thanks for the comment
I heard that was possible but wasn't sure how much work it was.....my very ideal plan was to strip down, identify the cracked liner or liners then swap the block for the shimmed item & build back up.
I'm reluctant to source an engine here as there isn't a great deal of experience with these cars (myself included) & shipping an entire engine scares the ££££ out of me tbh. I do like to keep as standard as possible although that's not a major thing.
There's a few C30s with the 2.5 engine about the city so maybe a block can be had here, probably for mega money though & no shims
I was assuming you'd be able to source something local. The 2.4 drops straight in, you'd probably need an experienced engine builder for the 2.3 option, which is popular in Europe and it's more complex.
Both of those options will require a small adjustment of the map as displacement will have changed.
jamesy12345 (Sunday 10th August 2014)
I did hear of a 2.4 over in Dubai available but that could be a bag of 600 quid bag of ££££e. I'll give Shemtek & Tim Williams a shout, see if they can help with bits for a 2.5. Assume I will need at least new rings to go with a new block
I had a new ECU with mapping for ethanol on order from TME but it's on hold until this is sorted...that is my Absolut-ly Fabulous project.....Absolut = vodka = ethanol...sorry
News just in from Volvo...according to the history, the cylinder head was off 25,000 km ago...
that might scupper my plan for new block & reusing the head
1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,
jamesy12345 (Sunday 10th August 2014),LeeT5 (Wednesday 13th August 2014)
therein lies the problem....alcohol is strictly prohibited here without a licence . The map is for greens & up to 20% ethanol
Anyway, I don't think I'll be here long. I can't work in a place where the gas cookers drive better cars than their clients
Thanks, what is that material pls - 304 stainless, spring steel..?
I used stainless shimming steel, brought a pack of assorted sizes then cut them into 10mm wide strips. They where a light tap in them
1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,
jamesy12345 (Sunday 10th August 2014)
You'll do for me, stainless has the least thermal expansion of the three materials I can see menitoned in the thread below...
http://forums.turbobricks.com/archiv.../t-204481.html
spring steel
aluminum 6061
stainless
thanks, will update..........
oblark (Sunday 10th August 2014)
jamesy12345 (Sunday 10th August 2014)
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