shimming block

**graemewelch** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 12:55

has anyone on here shimmed a block befor. just after a little bit of info as im in two minds weather to swap the heads myself or pay tim willams. the head swap is easy but while the head is off i might as well shim it. after some pointers from those who have done it befor

**oblark** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 12:59

I`ve shimmed mine

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthre...-project/page2

Post No. 26

**graemewelch** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 13:59

can you remember of the top of your head what thickness it was, im guessing mine will different anyway. do the shims go all the way down the liners or just part of the way

**graemewelch** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 14:00

Originally Posted by graemewelch

can you remember of the top of your head what thickness it was, im guessing mine will different anyway. do the shims go all the way down the liners or just part of the way

helps if i look on laptop and not the phone. roughly a inch.

**oblark** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 14:51

Off the top of my head I think the gap was only 0.7mm and slot is about 10mm deep.

**smithy** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 14:54

Originally Posted by graemewelch

has anyone on here shimmed a block befor. just after a little bit of info as im in two minds weather to swap the heads myself or pay tim willams. the head swap is easy but while the head is off i might as well shim it. after some pointers from those who have done it befor

I didn't think the 2.4 block needed shimming at all .the 2.5 block flexs at the top of the bore that's why they shim them .even though I never had a problem with mine

**graemewelch** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 15:30

Originally Posted by smithy

I didn't think the 2.4 block needed shimming at all .the 2.5 block flexs at the top of the bore that's why they shim them .even though I never had a problem with mine

the head is comming off thats why im shimming it. would be daft not to. im going to runing a bit more power than standard to want it to be bullet proof or as bullet proof as it can be with out going for a fully forged engine with darton liners

**MoleT-5R** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 16:10

Originally Posted by smithy

I didn't think the 2.4 block needed shimming at all .the 2.5 block flexs at the top of the bore that's why they shim them .even though I never had a problem with mine

The 2.4's seem to need it when running high boost levels, Colin had to shim his block, it looks a simple job from what I have seen of Colin's and Rob's threads, I'd do it if I had the head off just for the peace of mind ( but then mines a 2.3 so no worries there...lol)

**M-R-P** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 16:20

Originally Posted by MoleT5-R

The 2.4's seem to need it when running high boost levels, Colin had to shim his block, it looks a simple job from what I have seen of Colin's and Rob's threads, I'd do it if I had the head off just for the peace of mind ( but then mines a 2.3 so no worries there...lol)

The 2.3 isn't completely immune to split liners - it's not common but it has happened a few times from what I've read.

**smithy** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 16:31

I'm glad the redblock don't have these problems

**Yosser** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 17:23

this might help:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic...iner-shimming/

**MoleT-5R** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 17:24

Originally Posted by smithy

I'm glad the redblock don't have these problems

nice to know it's practically bulletproof ... but you need to get it on the track to test that fact....lol

**graemewelch** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 17:46

Originally Posted by Yosser

this might help:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic...iner-shimming/

quiet a lot of debate in that thread. think ill decied what will be best once ive removed the head.

**MoleT-5R** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 18:25

Originally Posted by graemewelch

quiet a lot of debate in that thread. think ill decied what will be best once ive removed the head.

Thinking about it and if I remember rightly, Colin shimmed his liners after they split so to stop the liner opening back up under load and heating, must have worked as that engine is pushing 428hp with no problems, sure he'll be along soon to add to this.

**claymore** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 18:50

Yep, I split a liner, and after shimming it, it's been fine, the size of the shim will be different on each engine, a common trick is to buy 5 sets of feeler gauges and use the correct size for each cylinder.

**T5frankie** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 19:30

Originally Posted by MoleT5-R

nice to know it's practically bulletproof ... but you need to get it on the track to test that fact....lol

being stuck in a garage all its life its gonna be bulletproof lol

**MoleT-5R** · Thursday 10th April 2014, 19:59

Originally Posted by claymore

Yep, I split a liner, and after shimming it, it's been fine, the size of the shim will be different on each engine, a common trick is to buy 5 sets of feeler gauges and use the correct size for each cylinder.

that's a great idea for a five pot insurance policy

**shemtek_racing** · Tuesday 15th April 2014, 20:32

The gap would have been the same size on all of them when new I think. They are all be cut the same way. They appear to have been cut with a circular disc. Maybe if that was allowed to wear you may get a slight difference in size.

Most variations are from the liners bending. High cylinder pressures will bend 81.5 mm bores.